Mysterious front end rattling & vibration - baffles a dozen mechanics

I did replace the Upper Control Arm bushings two years ago (Import Direct). I tried to replace the lowers last month but I didn't pre-treat them, and the mechanic couldn't them off. I am convinced that is where the squeaking is coming from.

I'm realizing from this thread how little I know about what goes into maintaining a vehicle. I believed that I was taking the righteous path when I purchased the "high-end" parts at AutoZone and especially Napa instead of warehouse closeouts from RockAuto. Now I'm learning for the first time about Monroe quick struts vs factory springs with Bilstein shocks. Holy crap.

I'm also realizing that I'm playing the wrong game. A TRD vehicle (even a lowly prerunner) is a high-performance vehicle and to properly maintain it cost serious money - money that I don't have. I need a truck to haul my handyman tools around in. In the last three years I've spend $15k on repairs (plus the $8k purchase price) thinking that I would really have something in the end. But the more money I pour into it, the more it wants. If I had a pension coming in or was otherwise financially independent, I could imagine enjoying the expensive hobby of keeping an old TRD Tacoma in pristine condition. It may be time for me to cut my losses and get something made for day-to-day durability, not off-roading.

 

My vote is the rack bushings, bigger wheels amplify any wear in the rack bushing do to their increased leverage. When I went to larger tires the truck immediately had some knocks that weren't there before. Turned out it was worn rack bushings that remained pretty quiet with stock tires but got noisy with larger ones.

 

Turn your radio up and keep the speed down so you don't feel the vibration. You're welcome.

 

what did they do here? rebuild sway bar aka stabilizer bar
new aftermarket stabilizer bar endlinks?
did they have you put MOOG brand endlinks on? many hack shops swear by this parts brand, along with the monroe garbage

at least you can rule out the front differential and CV axles, PreRunner is not a 4wd?
serious Vibration over 60mph might be the front wheel bearings? if the tires are Not cupped or cupping
i have had that happen before on my rig at 75 mph scarred the bejeebers out of me in HEAVY rush traffic, steering wheel started pound pound pound pound until i slowed it down under 60mph

 

I wouldn't beat yourself up too much. These are great trucks. Sounds like you just got your truck when all these parts needed replacement. I personally rather have an older vehicle knowing what parts I've replaced than try to get into something newer with other different potential issues.

 

what exactly cost $15k over the past few?
that amount you should have yerself a fantastic Gen1 rig

 

I understand why you feel that way about this truck, but I can tell you the grass ain't always greener. I think you're really getting killed on the labor costs of these repairs.

Outside of paying for labor, your biggest mistake has been purchasing non-Toyota parts, and many of these parts could still be part of the problem (rather than part of the solution).

I'd suggest starting to buy tools if you don't already possess the basics (floor jack, jackstands, breaker bar, pliers, wrenches, metric socket sets + ratchets), and knocking out future repairs yourself. I assure you that unless you're physically disabled, you can do almost any needed maintenance yourself with the help of the many fine folks that frequent this site.

Maintaining any older vehicle through the use of a mechanic who doesn't owe you favors is simply not very economically viable these days, given sky-high labor rates.

 

too many 'mechanics' 'parts changers' these days take no Real Honest Pride in their quality of work (basic hackjobs) expect to be paid like Royalty and just slop it together with no regards... and HOPE the paying customer never checks and knows better about how exactly it is supposed to be done by the book to spec

 

That made me smile for a minute. Smiles are valuable.

 

Does this Firestone report describe "how it aligns"?

 

From what I can tell, there is only one rubber bushing that clamps the rack. The rack also has two steel bushings that hold the main bolts. Are we on the same page about this?

 

Should be 3 total. The two "steel bushings" should have rubber around them with just a steel sleeve in the middle

 

I purchased a set of new tires in July of 2023. That's 10 months and 9k miles ago. I had them rotated in December when that shop replaced my back shocks and front quick-struts, which is exactly the moment when the vibration started.

The tires are:

Brand: Milestar
Model: Patagonia
Type: H/T (highway/terrain)
Size: P265/75R16
Max Load rating (per tire): 114 (2601 pounds)
Plys: 4
Max speed rating: T (118 mph)

 

I think I might back up to the shocks, if that's when issues started. FWIW, I put monroe quick struts on my winter truck (rusty farm truck) and they were noticeably tighter than the 22 year old originals, but have been fine for the past couple years. I installed myself in a few hours. On my summer truck I'll replace with billisteins.

https://www.suspensionlifts.com/sho...DKUXhc9RY4FiAAEeSYGjcLNNoOP7645BoCPyoQAvD_BwE


MY '03 summer TRD recently got new outer tie rod ends and both sections of steering shafts and alignment to correct a hard pull to left. Pull is fixed, but now it has slop in the wheel and a slight steering wheel wobble when braking and the steering wheel is off center. It's going back to shop next week. I share this to say these systems that have many parts so you're not alone in the confounding and frustrating domino effect...

If you know someone with a first gen, you might throw their wheels/tires on your fronts for a run around the block just to rule tires out. good luck --

 

That's probably your issue. The back tires were probably out of balance but because they're in the back you probably couldn't feel it. When they rotated now they're in the front and you can feel it. Take it to a good tire shop and have them balance,roadforced, and check the rim runout. Have them give you the road force and rim runout numbers. Do you have aftermarket wheels? I'd check your end links for your clunking sound. A squealing noise when pressing the brakes is generally a sign of needing new brakes.

 

Thanks for asking. In the process of refining my answer I found that only $10k was for repairs. The other $5k included the camper shell ($1500), regular oil changes that I did myself, and lots of errors and exaggeration I guess.

 

IMO that truck lived a hard life if it needed all that, especially the stuff that got replaced twice in the 3 years that list covers, 2 sets of injectors in an 8 mo period is far from typical. To me it appears you run it pretty hard or it has big tires on it.

 

I saw that too. Seems like he is either cheaper out or the shop is just blindly recommending stuff. Glad you got rid of those eBay injectors though. Never seen upper ball joints go bad in a year or a carrier bearing. Also that AC system definitely has a small leak to need to be recharged that often. Seems like you bounce around shops too.

 

Thank you both for taking the time to look at my dirty laundry list. I wish I would have become a member of this forum about three years ago.

It seems to me that this truck lived a very hard life before I got it. Aside from my ignorance about parts, another challenge I've had is that I was a vagabond for the first 18 months of the last three years, finally "settling" in a town where I didn't know a single person. I've been trying to find a good mechanic here, thus still bouncing around some. It hasn't been an easy time to own a vintage truck. The good news is that I got the truck in the western desert and it has zero rust (except on the exhaust).

The first batch of injectors that I installed were Denso brand, but they were suspiciously cheap on eBay. I learned a lesson there. They looked authentic, but perhaps stored in someone's attic for 20 years. They lasted six months.

Even though I had the AC tested last year, I agree that it must have a slow leak.

The outer tie rods, and all four ball joints that were replaced in Jan of 2022 were nameless "warehouse closeout" specials complete with a 30-day warranty. To be fair, I was in a truly desperate situation at that time. When all these symptoms (as noted in the original post) started up recently I had to replace these warehouse closeouts for so many obvious reasons, but upon inspection they appeared to be in good functional order (no play), and there was no change in the vehicle's performance at all.

Except for the occasional passing of slow cars on the two-lane highways, I drive it gently on the road (no off-roading). The speed hump in the entrance to my apartment complex is the most strenuous daily exercise that my suspension gets. Even though I went from 15" rims to 16", I didn't increase the outer diameter of the tires. They are 10.5" wide and 31.7" diameter.

 

i did not see anything in that list about front wheel bearings?
they are somewhat different on PreRunner than 4x4 with NO CV axle cutting across the middle

and I do not have any knowledge how OEM wheel bearings stand up over time on the PreRunner or real signs they are shot
...just have personal experience on my rig that needed 3 front driver wheel bearings replaced in less than 3 years timespan

my stressor levels are currently well north of 100 over the limit