Aluminum replacement for plastic rear coolant bypass joint

Not caused by Ph levels:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-for-coolant-leak.821061/page-2#post-29444621

 

Yep, that's what I thought and I just posted it a few seconds before your post.

 

Would anyone happen to have the failed part in their possession ? Id be curious what the exact failure point is and whether it's something that could potentially be reinforced with plastic welding and a mesh screen.

 

Already been done for inspection with FPI https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluorescent_penetrant_inspection.

I would never risk a patch job on that part; not worth destroying your engine to save $100
https://parts.elmhursttoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-joint-water-by-pass-1635631051

 

I'm not thinking of trying to salvage the failed part, rather reinforcing a brand new part whenever the factory one inevitably fails as I'd assume the replacement would likely fail eventually as well.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3rd-generation-coolant-bypass-leak.797196/page-5#post-29044520

 

That what I was looking for! Thanks!

 

Please add me to the waitlist sir!
I just got my truck in May and found out today it has the dreaded coolant leak issue

 

Today I had to replace a coolant bypass pipe on a 2015 Corolla. I searched for the replacement part & immediately found a metal one made by Dorman. Super easy repair/replacement in this vehicle. If it were only available in plastic it's still not a big deal due to its location. Now for the 3rd gens, having it in the worse possible location AND only offering the same plastic piece as a replacement it makes me wonder where the disconnect is here. This part should be made of metal from the get go but if you're not going to do that then at least offer a metal UPGRADED part to replace it with when the OE plastic one cracks. My sons '16 4Runner Trail & my wifes '24 4Runner TRD O/R have plastic oil filter housings. I never had a problem with them because I am careful but it's still nice to know that there are metal replacement ones available. Actually I purchased 2 metal ones and are on standby if needed.

So far from what I have seen in this thread it seems the best option is to remove the transmission for access. Is that correct?

 

I had to replace the same thing on my wifes Corolla. Barely touched it changing the battery and it snapped right off. Was only able to get a plastic one quickly though at the time.

 

Then I'm sure it was just about to break. It's good that it happened that way vs her getting stuck on the side of the road or possibly overheating the engine. Hopefully it will be the last time you have to replace it but just incase, here's the part # and current cost at Autozone in Miami.

COOLANT PIPE (Part# 902-924HP)
List Price: $47.24

 

Stumbled across this thread and was hoping for the metal valve, but went with the plastic one instead. Called around some machine shops in my area and they all recommended against trying to thread a new 90 degree nipple into the metal lexus valve. Got the trans out today and I'm taking the opportunity while doing this PITA job to upgrade my clutch, flywheel, TOB, and pressure plate. So not all bad I guess..

 

Is this still in the works @Jowett

I'd be in for one if you have the qty available.

If not, I may just buy the Lexus part and pull the straight nipple and weld on a 90* port. I hate welding cast aluminum, though.

 

Yes. Welding Cast Aluminum is a crap shoot. It has to be preheated and spotless.

I would imagine that this part cannot be welded, because
its most likely an alloy and not pure aluminum due to expansion and strength issues.
There are a few Aluminum Alloys that can be welded but not many.

Unless this part is made of 100% Aluminum it would be nearly impossible to tig weld.

 

Most aluminum alloys can be welded without much fuss besides good welding practices assuming no heat treating is required for structural needs. I would guess that this stuff is 2XX or 3XX and not heat treated but that's just a guess based on cost and mass production benefits. It's just that cast stuff is not usually of uniform thickness and density, so controlling heat sufficiently is a challenge. Pulse makes this easier, but still not great.

 

https://www.thefabricator.com/thewe...-determine-if-an-aluminum-casting-is-weldable

 

All these parts were placed in storage after some structural issues arose with my old carriage barn. Unknown when I’ll move forward with it, but if someone would like a piece to modify themselves, I can try to dig them out.

 

Don't go out of your way to get them but if you're in your storage again someone I'd be interested to modify one and test it. How much did the parts cost?