Cheap mods you are proud of

The electron flow you are referring to is called the drift velocity and scales with current. Drift velocity averages to 0 in AC circuits, but this is a DC circuit so the drift velocity is oriented from negative to positive.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drift_velocity

 

So in dumdum words you’re saying….

 

edit: this is too side tracking for this thread. i only reply to your post (and i agree). best not to go further.
but these are fun videos.

here are 2 videos that explain far better than i can.
this is a follow up video to try to clear up some misconceptions created by 1st video.
watch this first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oI_X2cMHNe0

this is the original video that needed some clarification.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHIhgxav9LY

 

lol. a thorough understanding of those videos is required to wire up the light and button. jk entertaining videos nonetheless.

 

Ditch the black wire from switch to ground and you’re good. It doesn’t really matter which wire the switch interrupts (red or black). Either one will allow the switch to break the circuit and turn off the light. What’s important is that the fuse goes as close to the + side of the battery as possible so that if there’s a short to ground anywhere downstream of the fuse, the fuse can pop and break the circuit preventing the short from turning into a carbeque. It’s also important to choose the correct fuse. They are rated for current and chosen to match the current the accessory will draw and the wire can safely sustain without overheating.
Choose a fuse rated slightly above the draw of the accessory but still well below the maximum current rating of the wire. You don’t want the accessory to blow the fuse but you DO want the fuse to fail before the wire.

 

if there is a ground terminal on the switch, use it. don't worry if there is not. it was good to be cautious grounding things you touch.
while it is true both wires interrupted by the button will work, there is merit in keeping the positive connected wire as short as possible.
similar to polarized lamp cords. the polarization keeps the hot wire out of the lamp bulb until needed...though either way would have worked. it's a safety thing.

 

If the switch is illuminated then a ground wire might be for that. The circuit as drawn (with a wire to ground) would bypass the light creating a short so my recommendation is based on that since the original sketch did not have an additional ground wire.

 

good point about switch illumination requiring a ground wire. had not considered that. not mentioned by @joncure.
if there is one, use it.

 

there are 13 cupholders ......just use 2

 

stability when turning

 

I second the larger cup holders now I can put my Gatorade bottle

 

The switch is not illuminated. It’s the exact same switch that ITmaD used from his original mod post for this hood light kit. But the switch does have two wires coming from it. One I assume is for power, and the other i assume goes to ground.

 

then i think the confusion is you drew the switch with 3 wires on it. eliminate the ground wire you drew and you have it correct.

edit: and ignore the little diversion of energy transfer videos and electron drift. irrelevant to getting your job completed.

 

Yeah just put it in line with the wire. Note you'll probably need some extra wiring to make the runs work from the top of the hood to the battery/button.

 

Got it! Thanks all.

 

one last (possibly obvious) tidbit. you can just connect the light wire, that is not connected to the button, to any convenient place on the body. it is all grounded.

 

Needs to be a spot where you can remove the paint and not get rusted if that’s a concern. Or it’s already removed. Bad ground is one of the more common problems with wiring.