TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I second @White lightning boosted. Using a ratiotek kit on mine. $60 well spent. I didn't care about 1st gear lockout but I purchased the torque converter lockout manual switch to keep things cool in the dirt. I'm curious how much better the nomad valve body is for the price difference.

 

well played brother. im interested in the difference in shifting as im not content with mine. eager for comparison data!

 

that is if mine was installed correct. shop was a family known buisness but who wrenched could be less than amazing.

 

That reminds me o need to bash my aem gauge with a hammer so they send me a new one lol

 

It's not meant to be spectacular but I think the firm and quicker upshifts are exactly what I expected. If for some reason you're not getting that, installation could have been botched. It probably wouldn't hurt to go through and double check the work.

 

it could be. its the downshifts i dislike.

 

please elaborate. I'm on the fence installing a ratiotek HD kit vs. just relying on the updated settings in the HPtune vs. getting the cruiser bros lockup kit. The nomad valve body is way out of my price range for this, at least with my current thoughts on the matter.

I don't want shift flare, but also don't want super firm shifting. I am usually hauling a family on a camping trip... this is no speed demon, I will never rev it up to redline or intentionally shift flat footed. I am OK with the way the truck shifts from the factory, but what it will do after the blower is installed is my unknown. Looking for recommendations from those who maybe don't like the mods they've made

 

Based off this comment and from talking to you.. you probably wouldn't like how hard it shifts. I get called out all the time by people who don't know or haven't rode in the truck before. It's violent. Lol. I personally like it.. I liked it even more back when the truck was much lighter and quicker. That was the main reason for getting the IPT kit... to keep up with my spirited driving. It would chirp the 33s and even 35s going into 2nd gear. Now that it's heavier.. not as much but will sometimes if I'm turning and that tire gets light. More than welcome to come ride in the truck before you decide.

 

overall i don't think its as bad as folks make it out to be. If you are driving lightly on the throttle or on the throttle it will shift pretty smooth. Only if you are going slow and moderate you get some harder shifts. I don't notice it most of the time. Paired with solid motor mounts and trans mounts i get all the goods.

But to your point @racebug68 if power is not crazy and its easy going most of the time may not give a ton of benefit. The install was pretty straight forward using the walkthroughs from the crew.

My reasoning for adding it was the blower and additional mods. The more you do, the more it will be beneficial, was why I did it. I was planning on stepping down to smaller pulleys and a few other things so was doing everything and anything to protect the added powerbands.

 

upshifts are firm and correct. downshifts a putter speed have been driveline slam. i may be the one not to follow as all my mods are so different to make a decent comparison.

 

I think this is a miss interpretation of the influence of ethanol on mixture, vs readings on the AFR. Any AFR gauge is actually reading the O2 sensor in lambda. The software of the gauge converts lambda to AFR, using the formula for gasoline.

Yes, the actual ratio needed to be at Stoic, for Ethanol is richer than the ratio needed for 100% gasoline. But since the instrument only senses lambda, and stoic lambda is identical, no mater the fuel being burned, then when you add ethanol blend, and the gauge still reads Stoic AFR, this means that you ARE injecting more fuel and the additional fuel has you back to Stoic.

Put another way, if you have a fixed open loop injection, and a constant throttle position and load, and you add ethanol to the fuel feed, the AFR gauge will appropriately read leaner, as the added ethanol displaces gasoline, but is injected at the same volume.

The mind twister here is that the gauge reads lambda, but outputs AFR, with assumption of burning 100% gasoline.

Hope this makes sense.

 

What was that lock up kit again? Always forget about that.

 

Question for the fuel pump and external filter folks. Recently swapped the fuel pump but did not do the external filter. I have a similar setup to @Lucario Runner but need to source some parts. Is worth getting the NAPA inline deal like the URD kit or just YOLO it until I get the other setup going?

I installed the AEM 320 and have been getting longer crank times. Is a check valve likely needed? I was thinking that since I'm not running the external filter, that could also factor in. I have not messed with the fuel side too much. If when I do swap either in anything specific I need to do or ill just lose a bit of fuel but not a big deal.

 

I think a check valve will help more than an external filter.

 

yah figured, also wondering if i should add the filter sooner than later. the URD style one seems easy enough

 

What’s the part number for the fuel filter used in the urd kit? Probably need to change mine out soon.

 

Aren't you on HP tuners? I wonder how much of the AT tuning can be adjusted to make an effective improvement? The nomad vb seems like a solid choice if you don't have further ECU control, though I'd like to see in action. Most of the videos on the nomad are all talking about it, nothing in action orna display.

It's a manual lock out switch. It will allow full time lock out on the converter to the point of stalling your vehicle if left on when coming to a complete stop. If you wanted to have more control over your driving experience, this would be nice so you don't have your gear hunting and slipping. People will say why don't you get a manual. To that I say, selectable 4wd. I love blasting in 2Hi btw. The fj only came as full time 4wd on manual models which I'm not a fan of. The taco 4x4 manual is selectable 4wd via electronic dial right? Correct me if I'm wrong
https://cruiserbrothers.com/product-category/automatic-transmission/torque-converter-lock-up-kits/

 

The fuel filter in the urd walbro kit is a Napa Auto filter for the Ford Mustang, I believe. Napa Gold #3296

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ricks-and-mods.518932/page-1841#post-25749204

But @Athlaos found a better alternative around the same price point.. Use the factory Nissan fuel filter for the Z32 300Z TT.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ricks-and-mods.518932/page-2344#post-28536504

Nissan part # is in the Amazon ad in my link above.

 

Do you blip the accelerator when down shifting? I had to do this in a auto subi to get it to downshift smoothly. I haven’t had many issues down shifting with my truck but I don’t do it often.

 

@wrmathis

I like the Nissan one because the filter material is made of metal, not fabric like the Mustang ones that come with the URD kit.

The only downside with the Nissan one is you do have to modify the fuel lines to accept a clamp-style connection.