Budget Crusty Toyota Rehab/Restore thread

not factory. so either someone added it as a solution to the no-start issue, or it's going to something that no longer exists.

if you've got a crusty battery cable/ground, i would absolutely start with that. a few family vehicles have had similar issues, and it usually boils down to either battery maintenance of cleaning the terminals, or replacing a crusty ground cable(battery to chassis, or chassis to engine block, you need both for the starter to work)

 

Got the new relay in

 

Two potential problem areas. Battery cable is pretty cooked, I bought that diagnostic tester and it showed ok, probably best to replace in the near future. Also the 40A starter fuse doesn't look too hot, might get another of those as well .

 

So something I am not understanding. Visually checked all fuses, they all look fine. However, checking with the tester, the ones circled in red are bad and green are good:



ANy idea why this would be? I ordered a bunch of fuses and am just gonna replace everything cuz theyre cheap, but am I missing something?

 

I'd change both battery cables posthaste, if that negative one is so shitty how good can the other one be (most likely)?

Then try the fuses again..not saying it's gonna be a sure thing but simple stuff first.

 

It would be very unusual to find that many fuses blown - something pretty impressive would need to happen.



When you say "checking with a tester" what exactly does that mean?

The most reliable way to check a fuse is to pull it out and do a continuity check with an ohm meter.

You can also remove them and use the truck battery and a test light.

 

I bought a test light and was using that to check

 

By touching the test points on the fuses while installed or pulling them out and using the truck battery?

 

ah, you need to be checking fuses with an ohm meter if you're checking them with a tool, always removed from the circuit.

a test light is verifying there's power at the terminal, where an ohm meter will show electrical continuity from one point to another-- the reason to test fuses removed from the vehicle is that if there's any voltage at the terminal being tested while it's installed, some meters will display a false "0 ohms" indicating the fuse is good, sending one down a large frustrating rabbit hole that returns to where everything began.

 

Bought a multimeter and started doing some testing. I replaced the ground from the negative terminal of the battery to the body they bc it looked a little janky. That tested out fine. I am seeing a low reading when I test the engine block (~4.5v) so I am suspecting maybe this is the cause of my issues? Would a cruddy ground to the engine prevent the dashboard lighting up?

 

not directly.

but given the overall condition of the vehicle, anything is really possible.

my parents had an issue with their suburban, drove fine day after day. we went to to see some family during an otherwise uneventful trip, we went to leave, it doesn't even try to start. then something starts smoking in front of the radiator.

turned out the starter lost it's ground, and somehow used the tiny 18 gauge horn wire for a ground connection, which immediately vaporized when the starter tried using it.

start with what's obviously not right/great, and work towards the expected problem area.

 

Sunday fun day! Respect to you all.

 

Got some more fuses and a fuse checker. Double checked all fuses with the tester and they were all fine. Replaced some of the 30a fuses that looked corroded just in case. Still no dash lights.

 

Any idea what this is? Is it a stock ground? Don't see where it could go to

 

And what the crap is this



Looks like the remnants of a strap or something on that bolt?

 

Somewhere there should be a heavy ground wire going from the engine to the truck frame.

 

the good news is that the phillips head screw in your first picture is non-factory, and evidence of someone else doing stuff. high probability it doesn't do anything anymore.

unfortunately i don't know enough about those motors to know what the second or third pictures indicate.

 

something like this right? Thats what im wondering if that isnt the remnants of that. ANybody know where that strap is supposed to be on a 1996 2.7L?

 

That's the strap he's talkin about. Not sure about yours but I can look on my 2.7 tomorrow, though it's a 2010

 

that would be great