Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Would you mind posting the part numbers?

 

No problem.

OEM Part Number:

$43 04428-04010 Toyota Genuine Parts - Boot Kit, Inboard/Ou (04428-04010)

04428-04010
Desc: CV Joint boot kit
Model Year: 05-23

 

Special Delivery..

 

oh boy...new toys...
+2 or +4?

 

A Used +4 Kit that I bought from @RonRon23.

I took the arms down to JD a few weeks ago for them to checkout some loose uniballs on the Lower Arms. They came back in absolute new condition. All new Uniballs all around, and no more EMF stuff. They treated me like I was the original owner even though they knew I had bought them used.. Can't beat the JDFab Customer Service!

 

Thats BITCHIN!

Have to agree with customer service being amazing!

 

You selling your old stuff?

 

Not selling the Arms or Coil Overs. But these items will be avaiable.
2" Extended Half Shafts (just the shafts) JdFab 2" extended steering adapters and the OG Trailer Products 2" Flare with 2" Rise Fiberglass Fenders.

 

Welp. Got the driver side emf out to swap with the 1” uniball replacements. Put the fk ball in the freezer, it gets 80% of the way into the cup of the LCA and stops. Put full spring pressure of the truck on to it. It will NOT go in. Anyone else experience this? I was told I wouldn’t need a press to get these things in. Not happy with this front kit right now.

 

3lb sledge and tap tap tap it in has been all I needed for this kit, my dk kit, and others. If it’s off concentric and you just add constant force, it might not go. Need the shock load of a brass hammer.

 

Yeah guess I’ll try taking the lower arm off add persuasion. At least the uniballs aren’t going to spin in the cup I hope. The EMF joint I removed was still nice and tight after 2 years of daily driving. I just don’t want to risk it sheering on the highway.

 

Shouldn’t need to take it off the truck. Find a socket that fits over the uniball, tap the uniball in. Shouldn’t need a sledge to bump it in…

 

Anyone had any hard hits on the JD pivots yet? Wondering if it's a good idea for me who is kinda hard on his truck? I bent the crap out of my steel Coastal skid at Windrock last year.

 

I did many times; truck frame was already bent from the start when I welded JD tabs (see my pasts posts in this thread). It drives mostly straight ...

 

I’ve split my steel rear bumper down the middle and my transmission skid is a V from dropping off a ledge onto a rock. I’m pretty hard on my truck.

I haven’t had any issues with the pivots. I’m not even really worried about them because the skid is mounted over the pivots and tied to the frame anyway.

 

Is anyone running a 35x13.5 (vs 35x12.5) with a JDFab long travel and pivot kit? Curious how much pain I'm going to get myself into. Eyeballing the answer kind of looks like none but some experience would be nice..

 

I remember someone having issues based on how they had the spacer and strap bolted but I can’t seem to find the post. If I’m not running a secondary shock is this the intended stack?

also since FOX is slow as hell, is it a bad idea to just use some female rod ends and all thread set to max length eye to eye to set the frame side tabs and burn them in? (I don’t see a reason why not to do this, I just need to call up JD to figure out the max extended eye to eye measurement and I can make progress?)

 

Here’s how I had mine, on the outside of the rear tab. I also had my upper strap mount on the other side of the bump bracket on the frame. This is the passenger side and IIRC I put the driver side upper strap mount even closer to the bump bracket on the frame, to get the strap straighter.

 

Do not strap like that. You’re gonna need to have the coil over in to make sure you don’t have bind with CV or steering. Wait and do it proper.

 

Why didn't you do the Lower Arm Pivots?