Bottoming out shocks, Bilstein 5125 ? Extended bump stops?

Am I at risk of bottoming out my rear shocks? Do I need extended Bump stops?

Drivers side roughly 2.5" and passenger side roughly 3" of travel, Tip of bumpstop to frame is roughly 4.5". The current bumpstop is 6.5cm - so from the top of the leaf pack to the tip of the frame is roughly 7" (without a bumpstop)

I have scanned the barcode on the shock and it pulls up the B8 5125 (https://cart.bilsteinus.com/details?id=7393872368442683209) which states:
Collapsed Length (IN)15.12
Extended Length (IN)24.35

I have aftermarket lift of around 3" all around. In the rear i'm running Allpro Expo leafs..

I've had the frame chopped from the cab back and re-fabbed which is why it looks different, and the shock mounts are also different from factory, so this may be effecting things.

Once when I had my camper loaded, I remember feeling a large thud while going over a speedbump, I assumed it was hitting the bumpstop, but I read a thread recently that said if you have 5125's you need to get extended bump stops, so now I'm thinking that may have been the shocks bottoming out, so I when outside to measure and it's gotten me thinking?




the angle of the pic looks different but this is roughly 4.5" from the tip of the bumpstop to the tip of the bumpstop on the frame

 

It's a given with a 15" collapsed length!

 

what’s the minimum height i should get, and any recommendations? i’d prefer to get the ones that attach to the leaf springs and not the frame, since i don’t have the oem bolt holes in the frame?

 

Wheeler'a Superbumps actually take up that difference

Think oem had a length of 12" give or take, collapsed

 

So I just measured and the current bumpstop is 6.5cm - so from the top of the leaf pack to the tip of the frame is roughly 7" (177mm) (if there were no bumpstop present). Wheelers superbump for the 1st gen says it's 4 &3/8" (111mm).

177mm-111mm = 66mm =2.5inches. so It looks like wheelers bumps wouldn't be long enough since the passenger shock is roughly 3" of travel (not accounting for the progressive bump stop, witch decompresses to an even shorter length).

Is my math off?

 

To add to this, anyone know if second or even third gen bump stops will work on a first gen?

something like this for example: https://tacomabeast.com/products/2016-toyota-tacoma-sumo-springs-rear

 

I missed the part about you relocating your shock mounts, because yes the superbumps I mentioned would work for a vehicle with stock mount locations.

However, you are looking for a bolt-on replacement that takes into account factory mounts...for a non-factory setup.

You see where I'm getting at?

If I were you, I'd cycle my rear to figure out the appropriate length shocks for maximizing travel. The right shocks would be priority here.

Then figure out the bumpstop part afterward.

 

Also, don't ever support that douchebag.

Ever.

 

You say the shock mounts are different from the factory. I'm assuming you are talking about the upper mounts, on the frame. The lower mounts (plate under the leafs) appear factory.

I'm thinking the upper mounts may have moved down from stock, maybe.

Regardless, your shock mounting seems fairly close to stock.

I believe your shocks are too long.

Bilstiens, for 1st gen are:
Driver - 13.9 compressed, 21.6 extended
BIL BE5-D559-TO 5100
Passenger - 14.7 compressed, 22.6 extended
BIL BE5-D560-TO 5100 You should have about 4~4.5 inches of shock up travel before you max out your bump (which is where your bump appears to be set at).

You need shorter shocks. Or you need to move your upper mounts up 1~1.5 inch.

 

@El Taco Diablo correct, lower mounts are the same, top shock mounts may be slightly off, but If I were to guess I'd reckon they are pretty close to stock since the guy who did my frame was pretty precise with measurements and kept the factory crossmembers. I think your right, my shocks are too long, thanks for the info.

Does that mean I can put stock bilstein shocks back on even though I have a lift with the leaf springs? Does adding a lift mean you need different shocks? The guy who did my frame/suspension bought the lift as a kit (front and rear), so I'm curious why those longer bilsteins would have been in the kit if regular bilsteins would have done the deal.

@Kwikvette thanks for the help as well. Wasn't aware of tacomabeast but I'll stay away.

 

Those shocks you linked are listed for
Ford Bronco 1977-1966, Jeep Cherokee 1983-1981, CJ5 1983-1959, CJ5A 1968-1966, CJ7 1986-1976, Grand Wagoneer 1991-1984, J10 1988-1981, J20 1988-1981, Toyota Pickup 1983-1979

I don't see how they would have been in any kind of kit for a Tacoma.

The link for the Bilstein shocks that I added to my previous post aren't stock Bilstein. Those are 5100s for a lifted application (longer than stock). Recommended for 1.5 to 3 inch lifted 1st Gens. Those would probably be the ones you are looking for.

 

I run a 10" travel shock, with a comp. length of 15.89 and ext. length 25.91...in stock locations. Mine have quite a bit more shaft showing at ride height than your shocks. Leafs are OME Dakars, 2.5" lift, maybe.
I'm thinking either you have a heavy load, reducing your ride height considerably, or your upper shock mounts are lower than stock. I actually think it's the later.

I chose to limit my up travel rather than using a shorter shock. This way I can use pretty much all 10" of shock travel. A shorter shock, at least with these Dakar leaf springs, would limit potential down travel.

 

Cut off shock mounts.

Relocate rear shock mounts for more travel.

Purchase correct shocks.

Win.

 

I see, good eye in catching that. Yeah this local shop that the parts were ordered from I've actually read some bad reviews recently that they've kind of just been mixing and matching parts, so this kinda makes sense now. Gotcha, I'm gonna order those lifted 5100's.

 

Interesting. The allpro expo leafs are supposed to give me around 3 inches of lift, but theyve sagged and I have a roughly 350lb canopy on, which may be why not a lot of shaft is showing.

I don't know if it's a case of the upper shock mounts being in a lower position than stock. The guy who did my frame had a high attention to detial; but i could be wrong. Here are some pictures of when they were fabbed/installed. In the pics you can see the drivers side looks a bit lower than passenger, but that's the same on OEM/stock trucks.

@Gen1andDone do your shocks not bottom out if your running a shock with 15.89 comp length, or did you get extended bump stops?

 

I had to limit up travel to keep the shocks from bottoming out. That can be done with larger bump stops or an extension on the frame side. I mounted some energy suspension universal bump stops to the bump stop landing on the frame, and cut down the factory bump stops till I was happy with the travel, and knowing the shocks won't bottom. Even with that I still have more compression travel on the shock than yours at ride height.

If you don't really care to get as much travel as possible, getting a shorter shock will work. Knowing that an 8" and even 8.5" travel 5125 works with stock bump stops still has me questioning why your 9" travel shocks are that close to bottom before BS contact.

Also, those shocks you have are 5125's, so a universal shock. You don't need a Tacoma specific shock. I've run 5125's of different travel lengths on my Tacoma in the past and on an 84 pickup. The years and models listed might just be what they are known to fit, but they are still not an application specific shock. 5100's are application specific.

 

hmm, i see what your saying.

Even though i don't need tacoma specific shocks (and that I'm currently running universals), I can still use the 5100's correct? Whats the difference between running universal 5125's and tacoma specific 5100's?

I think I'm going to order the 5100's for a 1-3" lift, these ones here: And hopefully that solves the issue (not that I have a problem with bottoming out all the time anyways), and if it doesnt, then I'll get an extended bumpstop. Last resort would be to relocate the shock mounts.

 

The difference between the 5100's and the 5125's are probably pretty minimal in this application. Valving could be, probably is different, available lengths different, sometimes the 5100's will have the bushings vulcanized in place, whereas the 5125's will have bushings that are easily removable so they can be swapped out for different applications. None of which makes any difference in your use.

If it were my truck , relocating the upper shock mounts, if possible, would be my first choice. Those 5100's should work, they look to be nearly the same dimensions as the 5125's that were commonly used in the past with small lifts on these trucks, and for sure work with stock bump stop configuration. If you actually are bottoming the shocks now, you'll want to do something soon. In my experience bottoming a shock can kill them pretty quickly.

 

...curious, on the drivers side, how far is it from top of frame rail to center of shock mount? I couldn’t get a super accurate measurement with the spare in place, but mine looks to be 1-1/4" to maybe 1-3/8" from top of frame rail to center of shock mount.

 

I ran AllPro Expos for a while. They sagged on me too. Added an adjustable shackle to lift it back up. That worked for a while... then I went to a custom set of Alcans. But I carry a bunch of weight.

Now I'm on 3/4 ton Chevy 63 inch leafs.




As far as 5100s not being vehicle specific. @Gen1andDone is correct... in a sense.

The 5100s aren't vehicle specific. But if you look at the type of vehicle, the model number you posted, is listed for... the 15 inch collapsed shock is suggested for bigger vehicles that probably have more space and more travel.

If it were me, I'd keep the longer shocks, if I could get the upper mounts to move up. But I don't know what's in the way or what you're working with for that.