Best way to protect new headlight housing?

Lady Taco…

 

My taillight housings ('14) are clear plastic and remain so to this day. Same outdoor environment as the headlights (that went so bad as to be useless in 7 years). Manufacturers know how to solve the headlight haze issue - use a different product ......... DOT could solve this problem by refusing to certify improper materials.

 

Do your tail lights get as hot as the headlights though?

I agree they can figure out a better clear plastic to use for headlights, but when comparing your current HLs to TLs, factor in that HL lenses are putting up with 65w of trapped heat as well.

 

My headlight housings don't get near as hot operating as they do when sitting in the Arizona sunshine - and I virtually never operate them in daylight to double up. Using the wrong material for manufacture is an easily identified engineering problem.

Glass would work - and it is actually recycle-able.

 

Is it a spray, a gel, or an actual sheet of some form of plastic?

 

THinking I need to do this again, mine are old and I can buff them but want to seal them with something afterwards.

I know the original post is about new housings, if I were to give my old ones a good cleaning/buffing would the film work?

 

But damn if the headlights aren't brighter

 

It's a clear adhesive sheet... use a spray bottle of soapy water like installing a decal. Used to be pretty thick (around 1/8") and hard to apply... needed a head gun and alot of patience. The older version was advertised to be able to take a rock hit without damage to lens. The newer Xpel is alot thinner material (around 1/16")... way easier to apply... just hope it works at least half as good as the original.

 

Everyone who has to replace headlights because the lens haze over should submit a claim to the NHTSA. Sure one won't make a difference, but if they start seeing enough they will look into it because it does become a safety issue.
https://www.nhtsa.gov/

 

I think that is pretty wishful thinking. Parts wear out and need replaced. Unfortunately headlights fall into that category. Plastic degrades over time when exposed to elements. Glass is no longer a viable option due to cost. Granted the 2nd gen isn’t an intricate design but some of the newer vehicles the size of the housing is astronomical and the design itself is part of the styling. We grip about our housings costing 300$. Could you imagine if it was glass and they were charging 600$ or 1000$ a piece?

Could they find a better plastic? Maybe. Would a different plastic more resistant to wear cost more? Better believe it.

Would you rather spend an extra 50$ on protection over the course of 15 years or pay an extra 3-400$ a piece extra for a better material that last the same duration as a “protected” housing?

My headlights are original. 11 years old. Still look brand new. Truck is parked outside 24/7, 365. Total cost to keep them in shape. 40$ and two hours of my time.

 

Yes wishful thinking, but how hard would it be to design a glass insert into a plastic housing where the light is needed to reflect to the road?

 

What is your method? Thanks

 

If they can make windshields/windscreens and rear windows out of glass formed just to about any shape a vehicle body is and seal them so water doesn't penetrate the passenger compartment, I think they could do the same with headlights at a reasonable price if the designers set their mind to it. It is just a matter of thinking out of the box. I see nothing wrong with a plastic housing that has a glass insert sealed to the plastic.

 

Regular high quality wax twice a year when I wax the whole truck. Spring and fall. That’s in addition to regular washing in between. I like to think it keeps oxidizing to a minimum. Unkept paint on these trucks oxides pretty quickly, at least 040 trucks do. And Ive used the cerakote kit twice. First use was when the headlights just started to show signs of oxidation. First treatment lasted roughly 2.5 years. Just did the second treatment last month. If it last 2 years again I’d be happy.
Cerakote kit is 20$ at Walmart.

If I was starting from scratch with brand new housings I’d probably do the laminate suggested and replace it when necessary.

 

Thanks, I may need to try that cerakote. Mine sits outside since new, always kept it waxed and clean like you. But now jut the very top of the lenses are starting to fade and they look like they have small scratches . I was thinking about buffing out those scratches and then apply that cerakote. I have used that turtle wax shine and seal, also 303, and think it’s about due for a little more work.

 

That’s where mine started too. The cerakote kit uses a wet sand method so it would likely buff those scratches out in the process. Then uses a ceramic sealant to restore and protect. Think they have some videos of how the kit works. Check them out and see if it’s something that would work for you. Definitely not a permanent solution but for me it does the job.

 

Like I reported earlier - the tail-light lenses on my '14 are clear - original - exposed to the same environment - and they don't have the cloudy scum that appeared on my headlights.......... The headlight problem is a "found" parts sales item being perpetuated by the Toyota parts sales group. I've been in the product engineering game for many years - mining and construction equipment. When we found an item that needed attention - that the parts management considered a "golden egg" - engineering changes would often be shelved "for economic reasons" they cited. This has put "will fitters" in business - and let them fleece end users with sub-standard replacements - which you will often see reported on this site.

 

or drive in direct sunlight

 

Taillights are made from polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA, the same stuff as in Lucite/Plexiglas/Perspex). It's a highly UV-resistant polymer with extremely low moisture absorption. A great choice for exterior exposure.

Headlights are made from polycarbonate (PC, the stuff in Lexan/Makrolon/others). It's a terrifically impact-resistant polymer, which is why it's specified. But it has marginal at best environmental resistance. In particular, polycarbonate is sensitive to crazing when exposed to moisture. A lousy choice for everything but impact, frankly.

Where my rear gets roasted is that the manufacturers and OEM suppliers, who know ALL OF THIS, of course, haven't come up with better coatings to protect the polycarbonate. Seems like that technology is already there, but for some reason not applied to this problem.