Volk racing TE 37 on my tacoma

I love the -10 stance, sits nice imo

 

Agree but I think it’s super poke on the 4th gen’s like -25 on our trucks lol

 

From what I've seen, yes

IIRC a +25 mm to +35 mm offset sits flush with the 4th gen Tacoma

 

Same as what I’ve been seeing from my research.

 

Got some hub rings in. Since the center caps are 106 ID was curious to see if some $10 Amazon rings would fit. And to my surprise, they fit like a glove and even have a reassuring "click" when inserting them. Anyways, have a backup set of 112 to 95 in case this doesn't work out, but then I'll be without center caps.

Studs go in tomorrow and we'll see how this all pans out.

Seeing other pictures of 4Gs with TEs kinda makes me wonder if those guys also swapped studs. I got about 6 turns on the factory studs and did not feel like that was enough.

 

playing with photoshop if I took over my current setup

 

So showstoppers is priority mailing my new lugs, anyone know what M14x1.5 ones will work for now if they dont show up in time?

 

I did a shit ton of research on this, and aside from going with the Rays ones (won't ship till end of Aug, it's a new part for them), the best option I found for something lower profile is the Gorilla 78644N set. They're open ended conical lugs but all of them are keyed, and given the low profile and small OD of the lug flange on the wheels, impossible to get to with a vice or gator grip. Highly recommend them if you're in a "higher risk" area for wheel theft - I definitely am, lol.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ65MVE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I'll post some pictures here shortly. They literally sit flush with the studs on the fronts, and slightly poke on the rears.

 

Here's the finished result on the Rays ALAP07X.

Prior to installing these, I had to swap the wheel studs as I previously posted - I was only getting about 5-6 turns on the front on the factory studs, wasn't super comfortable with that. I ordered 24x KYO-EI 55mm SBLC studs via Rakuten Japan for about $120 shipped, a lot cheaper than what you'd find them for via Blackhawk Japan or other JDM sellers.

Swapping wheel studs was pretty simple. Since the 4G has disc brakes on all 4 corners, it just involves removing the rotor and caliper (2x 19mm bolts) and specifically for the fronts, removing the (2x 12mm) bolts that provide additional support for the front brake lines.

The fronts banged out super easy and with the 55mm KYO-EI studs, no bending of the dust shield was required. Rears took a little bit more hammering but they came out. I used a 2lb hammer but suggest you maybe go with a 3 or 4 pounder, should make it easier. I also used a $6 stud installer off of Amazon along with a factory lug to seat them in with my cordless impact.

Obviously when working on your truck, if everything seems to be going too smoothly, Murphy's law is bound to hit - the stud installer did take a shit with 3 studs to go, but I guess for 6 bucks, what do you expect - these things are basically single use. Also my trusty 1/2" torque wrench gave out - the calipers go in at 91ft-lbs and the lugs at 83, but it felt like they were all way too snug. My hunch was right, as my impact could barely remove them after torquing. So had to also make a quick trip to Lowes to get a new wrench. Go figure.

Here are some pictures of the difference between the factory studs and the KYO-EIs.





Not a huge difference but it ends up being double the thread engagement of the factory studs. With those Gorilla lugs I was talking about, they literally sit flush even though they're open ended.





And here's the before and after of the stud installer. This is why you don't buy cheap Chinese knock-off tools.





Anyways, here's the truck and side angles. +32 with an 8" is pretty much flush, maybe a tiny bit of poke. Overall super happy with the result. And yeah, I know I need to get rid of the air dam, hah. Waiting for the full skid setup to come in and I'll tackle it in a single go.

 

I swapped mine out with the ones from wheeladapter.com that advertised 1/2" longer.. but they were actually 1" longer. If I did it again I would us the ones off the Toyota Matrix that are actually 1/2" longer and would be a pnp install. These were unfun to install in the rear specifically and the options were to pull the axles or drill 7/8" holes in the drum backing plates and then plug the holes. I chose the latter. Both are better than 6 lug turns though. I have 17 turns now. I don't think these would fit behind a closed-end lug, but I had extended open-ended lugs already for this, so no issues.

 

TE Crew

 

Hi, just curious did you use the supplied o-ring with those center caps?

Also, thanks for bringing the hub centric ring hack to my attention. I might have to do the same when i put the TEs on the LC.

 

I got the center caps used and they didn't come with o-rings. With the hub rings installed they don't spin, so no need for o-rings.

 

finally got these onto the truck, thanks @tonered with the help installing Accutune UCAs, trimming and of course, hammer time!

 

Yeah!

Gonna change my username to tiny tires tonered.

It's like I missed leg day.

 

35s FTW. Super jelly. Guess I gotta go 37s now

Apex valves are a game changer

 

Looks great!! I'm about to install my TE37's and King EXT suspension, curious how much front lift you have to fit 315's? I won't be flexing too much, mostly on-road driving. Thank you

 

thanks! I think I’m around 2” of lift, so not too high and wheels are 16x8 -20. I have an aggressive CMC, hammered pinch welds and inner fenders. It rubs a little bit on the driver side CMC currently but I haven’t gotten an alignment since installing the Accutune UCA and 35”s. I should have it all dialed in within the next few weeks due to travel.

 

Looks good!

 

That’s an easy fix tony. Time for some thicc meats