2LM PnP - Plug and play 2WD low range for the 3rd gen. Tacoma

If I were you I'd just buy another switch, except I wouldn't go with CH4X4, I would go with Air on Board in the Toyota "new blue" option which is somewhat close to stock. the CH option is a harsh bright blue that doesn't match at all.

There are no real options for using the switch you have, other than to buy a whole new switch panel from Fitztaprint on Etsy or Meso. Those are viable options and I went with Fitztaprint, but that's an expensive alternative to just buying another switch. Plus I wouldn't want 2Lo on the left side anyways, I would want it on the center stack next to the 4x4 knob.

 

The CH switch light is pretty bad. I thought the comments on it were just people being fussy (like the complaints about the clutch safety switch light), or photo exposure exaggeration…but no, it’s as intensely bright and mismatched as it looks in photos.

 

roger that, advice taken. appreciate the input!

 

It was awful. I didn’t know about AOB at the time so I went with CH. I gave up on it and got AOB not long after and then threw the CH in the trash where it belonged. I don’t have 2L anymore but all my other switches are AOB. They’re not perfect either but a lot better.

 

I still have mine in, but I picked up a center diff lock switch from a Highlander and another latching switch for something else I don’t remember, going to swap the Highlander button on to the other switch and hopefully have an actual OE switch there..hopefully..

 

That would be neat. Would also be cool if we could put the 2Low switch cover on a factory switch. That way it’s actually representing 2low with the graphic yet is the proper color. But oh well.

 

The CSC switch would be a neat one to recycle for 2Lo, but maybe a bit too much to it. The key q is would you want to mix and match 2lo and 4wd without a restart. Probably. So some way to reset CSC as you've hoped for but kind of nice that it latches but resets with ignition.

 

I’d be curious if it would fit - it very well might. But then I noticed the graphic design varies a bit from the rest of the buttons and…well…

 

I went with AOB, and because of my height and it's placement.... I can't see it from a normal driving position. No lights to bother me with

 

The aftermarket and factory switches are completely different. I liked the logo for the CH4x4 switch (I picked it), but the color of the AOB one. I swapped guts and made it work. They aren't 100% compatible though. Just swapping the LEDs would probably be easier.

 

This is the part I'm currently struggling with...any additional tips/advice to get those plastic tabs undone? I'm afraid to break them!

"Next, wrestle with the plastic tabs. A medium width flat head screwdriver can help to coax them loose. My vehicle had 3 such tabs and I spent at least 15 minutes on this step wondering how to get it done. I'm guessing subsequent disassembly will be substantially easier than the initial one. The tabs can be squeezed from front or rear but rear is very difficult to access so front with some sort of flat blade screwdriver seems the best option. "

 

Use the flathead to push the tabs in gently, then pull the dash. It was meant to come apart, so as long as you don't start going hulk on it, you should be fine

 

I think the key is to simultaneously push tab w tool and pry back with fingers. Without visibility it’s more difficult the first time. Pull without forcing but with purpose. Push in the right spot and you should release the tab. Ideal is push then pull clean. But some pull tension before the push can help identify proper push technique.

even if you mangle the tabs, they can be mangled back and aren’t visible. Just nice to not mess them up too bad the first time.

difficult to explain with words.

 

I was able to get it by reaching behind and pushing (up) on the tab from behind to get it to release--didn't have any luck any other way. The last tab gave me the most trouble...until I realized it was already loose and I was actually just getting hung up on the glovebox door and nothing else

Some of the write-ups mention two tabs (I actually count three).

I'm still pretty nervous about any of the tension tugging on the airbag wiring, but no visible damage or anything.

On to the rest of the project...!

 

Great work, take photos to help others if you remember. It’s been a while for me.

 

Who’s good at Where’s Waldo?!

I’ve seen a couple of different ways it was recommended to route the new wiring (for reference, see post #286 here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2lo-plug-play-harness-discussion.592035/page-15#post-20836143)

This is what I came up with to make it as compact as possible...
***EDIT: See post #1922 for new “method” of wiring routing.***

I’m totally new to wiring/electronics…if you have a keen eye, anything look like it should be rearranged here before button it all back up? Want to avoid pinching something LOL



Also…How concerned should I be, if some raindrops and moisture got in under the glovebox, etc? Was working outside and it rained on me with the door open.

Im putting some old newspaper under there overnight to wick, and will reassemble in the morning.

 

If anything resists being buttoned back up, stop forcing it and start looking for a stray wire.

A little water won't hurt, but the newspaper idea is solid. Run your AC next time you drive to truck to get maximum moisture removal.

 

May I ask why you decided to remove your 2Low mod?

 

Regeared the truck to a significantly lower ratio with not much larger than stock size tires, so my gearing is low enough that I just don’t feel I need it. Also have plans to install a transmission with even lower R/1/2/3 ratios as soon as it’s available, so even less need for 2Lo once that is complete.

 

I've got 5.29s on the horizon, but I'm gonna keep 2L


For.... Reasons.