Long Travel BS Thread

Noice, thanks

 

I’ve gotten better with time management and rip the thing apart as soon as the first salt hits the road. Goal is always no later than June 1st lol.

 

My goal is the same, but because it’s too hot to work on anything without a AC shop past June here in AZ.

 

Sweet truck build....
+8 per side but track width of 3.5? That terminology isn't right, +8 per side usually means 8" wider than stock per side.

The kit I did ended up +6" per side and it's strapped at 18".

But centermount setup you could keep it narrow overall and get good travel, that's what I assume your doing?

Personally I'd go get some Ocho fab 9" equal length beams and make all that work, it'd be strong, cheaper, steering box with a hydro assist too.

That's my future plan, or just doing my friends beam kit 2wd....built prerunner rarely ever needs 4wd honestly

 

But 4WD is cool

 

It is and trust me I get it.... then when ALL of your buddies are on beams, big shocks(4.0's) and built v8s it looses it's luster, I have to drive it on the ragged edge now just to maintain...I mean it's fun and exciting and there's brief moments when you can just pull up over some sketchy rock section or wash where they're gettin stuck or Rev limiter. But those moments are brief and having driven similar trucks back to back against mine....if hauling ass in the desert is your goal don't bother with 4wd, use that money and buy a better shock package.

If I keep the 4wd truck will end up with Ocho beams just to get a better shock package and have a lower motion ratio, easier to tune too

 

Actually 4wd what's gunna limit ya is the hubs, unless your making some sort of fancy unit bearing spydertrax or d60 unit bearing hub setup your kinda stuck with a d44 and they are really only so strong and eventually you will snap the end off a snout if your driving hard, there's things you can do like add a preload spacer to help take the load off the bearings and retaining nut, the side load is what kills em. But that is the weak point

 

but what if you have a 4x4 v8 with a good shock package?

I sunk my truck in the cinders when I was tooling around in 2WD. And it’s got a big 6.3L V8. Was happy to have 4WD.

This convo comes full circle. How much of this build really remains a Tacoma? I think if you link, beam, cage, and LS your Tacoma it’s not really a Tacoma.

@WormSquirts im talking to you the pic of your truck I saw looks a lot like MCD1’s Dakar Prototype. Just barely a shell.

 

Yea your not wrong lol but again it's brief occurrences when you will use 4wd if ever.

Toyota purist talk lol...well toyota makes some good stuff, could 2j swap it or 1uz with a blower or turbo...you could keep alot of it toyota if you want, and if that's your thing by all means....but if your chasing performance and driving feel and experiences being brand loyal is silly in today's world where the aftermarket stuff available you can build anything you want, but sacrificing many avenues of performance and ease of maintenance just to puff your chest out and say it's still all toyota is dumb in my opinion. I'd rather put the best bang for buck parts I can get to achieve my end result. But that's not everyone and that's ok.

And @WormSquirts truck build, that is the most correct way to build a performance platform...people still like the body lines of a toyota or it's nostalgia from owning a yota when younger. But to bag on someone's build because it's not all Jap this or that your missing the point. There's some of us that are into offroad for the driving experience it creates and we chase that with the options available to us.

Even the sas crowd ALOT of people use non toyota drivetrain parts, axles etc by your standard those arnt toyotas either?

 

I’m definitely no purist. The standard is entirely subjective imo. I think the cool thing would be a 2UR/AA80E build. Those motors are beautiful and if good condition turn key pallets were less then 20k I would’ve done that. Oh, and if they were easy to control.

 

I'd argue I have a truck with good 4wd, a good shock package, big tires etc (no v8) and in my opinion it limits ya in many performance based ways unless your spending 10s of thousands of dollars for big difference, hubs, portals etc , just to be on par with a simple 2wd race setup that works just as good at speed than it's 4wd counterpart.

 

I've always liked toyotas as kid is why I have em, a d the majority of folks associated with em have a similar mindset in the offroad world, I don't fit in with jeepers lol

 

3UR would be cool. Still can't even come close to an LS for budget power though.
https://xatracing.com/xat-built-engines/XAT-3UR-full-build.html

 

Yup. I’m right on the verge of dropping some substantial weight myself. Honestly I rarely even use 4wd anymore. Truck is more than capable in 2wd only and I really don’t feel much like adding 30k in expenses to pull big travel and keep all 4 powered.

 

the billet Mitch beams …?

 

Yep....mitch does some work for the helicopter outfit I work for...I've known him a long time, seen multiple kits of his go together and having seen the beam design in person that he's doing for Morgan...they're super solid and his hubs too there's some really trick design stuff he did with those that arnt in the big name hubs like camburg etc which honestly really ain't all that for the price

 

This was a fun night. Off to get SUA and back half caged...

 

+8 arms, but center mounted so only 3.5-4" wider track width per side

If I was building a pure desert truck it would be 2wd, but I spend more time in 4wd crawling big rocks than I do whooping cuz I live in BC, so this truck has to be able to do it all, while understanding that it will be compromised for both crawling and going fast. It's more of a full body ultra4 build than a prerunner. That's why I'm running short trailing arms as well.

I was considering dana60 locking hubs, but heard they can be weak, so I might just end up with the full spidertrax front end.

I wanted to go with 4.0 shocks, but I think I'll end up with 2.5/3.5 all around. I don't think my shorter trailing arms have enough space for 3.0/4.0 so it would have to be 2.5/4.0 if I went that way

I don't know what it is as I know they are simpler, cheaper, stronger, but I just am not a fan of beams. I want to make a-arms or j-arm work. I think it's more interesting

 

I don't care if it's "Toyota" just the body itself has a lot of sentimental value to me. My dad bought the truck for me when my mum passed away 12 years ago as of yesterday. Crazy enough our first child was just born yesterday as well. In the hospital right now!

That and I own a business that works exclusively on Toyota's so it has to at least sort of look like one haha

 

Should be rad when it's done, 9" pumpkin up front? 934s so you can run a 35 spline shaft?

So the newer dana 60( 2005+) I run the fancier warn locking hubs on my crawler and I am NOT nice to it (knock on wood) haven't blown a hub apart yet and I've had it bound up pretty good where it walks the steering u joint cups out at the knuckle(I weld the caps in now) and that's a hefty 1550 joint lol.
I w a s hoping the hub guts would be the first things to give since they're the easiest to change.

Just food for thought don't sleep on the 60 stuff
(And yes im referring to my solid axle crawler) but the outer parts are the same.

Sweet build can't wait to see it