TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Is this correct? I think the Maggy harness eliminates the T-sensor in the MAF and uses one mounted in the manifold, after the inter-cooler. Am I miss remembering?

 

I'm probably not going to do it, but I am putting it out there as a refresher for anyone who might want to do it.

 

Larger, more efficient compressor ftw

thats for the 3g. 2g retains the iat in the maf

 

As posted in the Ucon thread:

Hello,

Been running a Ucon Flex EMS with my TRD SC, flashed for a few years now. I did Spec-U headers, 7th injector, upgraded fuel pump and of course it has the included 170 degree thermostat, cam gears. When it runs, it runs like a champ and I usually keep at under 4,000 rpms. But here is the thing that makes me think I have had a bunk Ucon all along. When doing a quick, under load rev from say 2,000 to 4,500 rpms, it effing fries the coil on my #6 cylinder, rain or shine, hot or cold weather. I get a P0356 code and I can either cool it off for a bit then take it easy home or it just totally fries the coil.

This is the only coil it does it with, no other coil, ever. I have had this happen at least a 1/2 dozen times. So last week after BC skiing at 12,000 feet, I took it nice and easy home. About 10 minutes from home while doing like 40mph on a rural road in 78degree weather, I get the dreaded misfireand code, like out of the blue. So I get it to a safe place to park, wait an hour and it drives home fine. But like usual, I do not trust the coil so I have my tech replace it and all the plugs which were getting a bitworn, would do it my self but that cylinder is a PITA with the SC above. It drives fine afterward, so today I get stuck behind an old truck doing 20MPH in a 30 zone and get stuck in 2nd gear. I go to pass, hit thehigher revs and poof, the damn coil goes AGAIN! Same code, bad misfire, I wait an hour and this time it only improves a littlebit, still rough, still throwing the P0356code.

At the moment, it is parked on a steep incline a mile from my damn house. I will be back by it in a couple hours and I hope I can limp home. I use my truck for work, it has a 1,000lb pop up camper on it, I need itto be reliable but with this seemingly POS piggyback, something is frying that coil and I have no idea what.

Anyone else have coils get fried using theUcon?

 

New 4th Gen Tacoma tested the FJ tonight! Walked him pretty easily merging onto an empty five lane. He tried to stay on the bumper without avail!

 

OE coil packs should outlast most people's ownership. Probably your portion of the coil pack harness causing issues. My UCON hasn't failed me yet, even though people like to hate on URD for their questionable sales tactics.. you should probably see about a remote session with Scott so you can rule some things out.

 

Comedy break.

Is this one of you guys?

 

The new 4th gens look nice but they suck. Mechanically and price wise too.

 

Supercharge that bad boy and you’d need wheelie bars

 

Came back to it

I think my tech and I are going to do that but also pull the Ucon and overnight it to Gadget so they can run a diagnostic.

I’ll mention the coil harness. By the way, it fired up fine once cooled down last night.

 

Replaced with denso OEM coil packs? If this has been exhibiting from the beginning of the install, not sure how you drove all this time like that. Could be a UCON problem but strange it would exhibit in the last coil pack and only under boost conditions. Hoping there's good news for you after they review it.

 

Yes to Denso. Look, this is a long nuanced and frustrating story, it's been every 12-18 months for a few years, not always high rpm related either such as the one last week, just a chill, not too warm cruise on a backroad at 30-40mph then it went. That one did better when the motor cooled for an hour, but I still had it replaced.

I just fired it up an hour ago and it misfired again with the code. Then I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes and it cleared it. I have been round and round with Steve, Scott, my tech, the Dalai Lama, etc and it has all been like throwing darts at solid granite wall, nothing has really stuck. This is 90% a work truck with work needs, so I am about ready to just get rid of it and buy a full sized that has enough motor to carry the load. It would suck for the places I need to get to but no one really makes a mid sized truck with a 6' foot bed and something along the lines of 300+ torque, it's all Baja poser BS with lame utility.

I have sworn up and down that with the SC above that bank trapping in hot air, it is doing something with this tune on that coil with this controller. I think a remote session with Scott is in order for sure but I also think I need to send the UCON in, there have been several reports of replacements based on faulty boards, maybe mine has been in slow but steady decline?

One thing is for sure though, I have really about had it with this setup being so unreliable, great performance gains aside.

 

I'm curious if you are 100% certain it is the coil packs causing the issues? I understand how chasing a problem over multiple years with out getting anywhere can be very frustrating. I ask because I know there is sometimes an issue with fuel injector #6 on 1gr engines where they get too hot and stop functioning properly. Have you tried swapping injectors around just to see if it follows? Getting the ucon checked isn't a bad idea but I really don't know that it's causing your issues, I would think that to be more of an anomaly situation.

 

I honestly have no idea, I am just going by the code thrown which is associated with that coil glitching. It could very well be the injector which are the ones for the TRD SC (455). But if we are going to swap that around, I would just assume replacing it outright or all of them for that matter since we would need to take the blower off anyway. I would also consider going up a size injector to reduce the duty cycle but I am only running the 2.85 pulley.

 

Ah I see ok. That makes sense since it's that code. At first I thought it was just a cyl 6 misfire code. Taking the blower off isn't too bad of a job but if you are paying a shop that may be wise. I don't think you are anywhere close to needing larger injectors with a 2.85 pulley. I am running 650s on my 2.85 and I was told they are pretty much brutally over kill how ever I did it because they are load balanced injectors. If I were you I would definitely inspect all the coil wiring as well as any grounds in that circuit and see if anything is damaged.

 

i looked in to it a couple years ago. radio silence detered me going further.

 

It's always a P0356

 

that is either coil or coil wiring. weather the coil fails open; the spark is arching to ground without reaching the spark plug; or the ECM signal to fire the coil is not reaching the coil. The puzzling thing is that you seem convinced that replacing the coil temporarily solved the issue, at least once.

Does the coil come with the entire boot? If you replace the plug, boot and coil, and it happens again, that eliminates the coil as the problem, because the coil is simple as it sounds, a coil of wire. Burning up a coil is only by a few possibilities, physical damage (a clamp chafing on it or installer error), overheating by environment (almost not possible, but replacing spark plug eliminates this possibility), over voltage, but would affect more than one coil, and possibly exceeding duty cycle (seems impossible to me, but maybe if it is firing 4x per rev or something silly.)

I would be looking at wiring to the coil. Maybe take a garden hose under hood when running well and see if the moisture recreates the problem?

I like the idea of looking at the injector, but I cannot see how an injector problem would cause P0356. The spark would happen even without fuel in the cyl. In fact the arch at the plug happens easier (less voltage required) with less fuel; higher concentrations of fuel require more molecules to ionize, in order for the spark to happen. With that, is the plug gap too wide? excessively wide plus rich mixture can cause miss fire, though reaching here; would improve by letting off the gas, and not require cooling down the engine.

If replacing the coil, has never actually changed the situation; then maybe it is the ECM that is malfunctioning when heated. Electronics certainly can fail in this manner, even cold solder cracks can often only show up with higher temperatures.

Sure hope you figure this out, for your sake and so we all can know. Best of luck!

 

Pulled the blower to swap coils, check plug gaps and swap injectors. Brand new plugs were 1.0mm when need to be .8, re-gapped. Got it all back together, ran good and then smelled fuel. Borescope saw a stream coming from injector #6 where it attaches to the fuel rail. I'll do it all again tomorrow.

Can I check for fuel leaks by turning on ignition to just before engine turnover?

I pulled my glove box out and checked all the wiring, checked wiring all around ignition coils as well, nothing out of the ordinary, no chaffing, etc.

 

Be careful gaping plugs unless you are using copper plugs.

As far as I know the truck doesn’t send fuel until you start cranking