Long Travel BS Thread

I guarantee you the bolt was not torqued to 408 when I removed it. Not even close. Maybe 100. Maybe.

 

Not gonna lie. I 100% would have said screw that to 408. I like proper. But there’s nothing proper to begin with using a 13/16 equivalent sized bolt for a shock end.

 

Yeah my biggest breaker bar and just yank on it till it doesn't go any more and id run it without a worry

 

Modified my UCA High misalignments to give a bit more up clearance. Hopefully no more Inner fender hole punching...

 

Big boys are in.

this thing needs inner tie rods and LBJ’s. But why replace with stock when I could do billet spherical! This is getting out of control pretty fast. I also wanna add straps and bumps in the rear, and straps in the front. No need for a bump in the front with IBP’s right?

 

Idk how you’re doing that to begin with. What front kit are you on?

 

This is the setup to have ...


on my AllPro LT Kit that has been on my junk since 2009 with just about 400k driven on it.

 

Im using 1" uni's though.

 

We went to a king bump , it was adjusted correctly during install, remember the stock front does move around alot, so combo of stretching and front fender/inner moving plus I'm running poly bushings. I dont really hit anymore, a few des runs clearanced most of it so added insurance and I can now add a bit more up after adjusting the bumps.

 

Yes. If you aren’t caged you need to be conservative at bump. The shock towers flex inward substantially in real life.

 

Nope, I have double sheer and a cross bar installed

 

I promise you. That cross bar may do something but it isn’t stopping all of the twisting from the leverage on the shock tower and the leverage applied to the bump stop.

 

I understand, I am a Mechanical Engineer, It ISNT stopping all of the twist/leverage but its better than stock.

 

Marginally at best. Yes. But you’re still talking enough deflection to make an inch or more upward travel a reality.

When I did my engine cage, I had the engine out and actually measured deflection in the front half of the truck. And it’s a sickening amount.

 

Ok, but I have 20K plus offroad miles including high speed in the des since 2012, I haven't bent anything too bad that I have front suspension performance issues nor alignment issues. Other than the more up travel punching holes in the inner, I haven't had any issues with my front LT since install in 2012, maintenance Uni replacement, bushings replaced and or grease on a regular basis.

 

I’m simply stating you need to be more conservative with no engine cage. Nothing more.

If you’re not you will be bottoming shocks, ruining pivots etc.

 

Noted, thanks Cory.

 

Isn’t that what hole saws are made for j/k

 

I have a lathe, just using what I have available...Plus I have a lot of electronics I don't want to move near the hole.

 

For sure just joshin ya. At some point removing the inner fenders is a thing. I’m also planning on having the whole rad core support and fender assemblies be removable so the engine can be removed a lot more easily.