TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Yep on be careful, all set to proper .8mm now. My mechanic said a couple of turns of the key just before cranking ought to pressurize the system enough to make sure it is all good. I am picking dielectric grease and careful re-seating ought to seal the deal.

 

“Careful gaping plugs”

But, gapping plugs should be already if done properly

 

har har lol

 

I re-did everything, running well for the moment. The big test will be when I come home from a drive and do my usual hill climb. 800’ feet in 2 miles.

 

Some have had issues with head gaskets on the early 1GR-FE motors. Cylinder 6 if i recall. I would check compression and leak down on the vehicle too. Leak down with the radiator cap off.

 

I think it was ones with a driver door stamp before June 2006 or near there.

 

His signature states 2005. One reason I bring that up, also reoccurring on the same cylinder. Thanks for the recall on the time frame.

 

A possible easy confirmation, is to look at the antifreeze in the expansion tank, for ugliness. A crack or bad head gasket will subject coolant to compression gasses, and make a black oily mess, floating on your coolant, often staining the inside of reservoir tank black too. Can be subtle, but worth a quick look.

 

I would recommend sending in your UCON and having them check/replace the boards on it. I had a similar issue on mine with coil pack codes (all of them p0351-p0356) and my boards ended up being bad. I also had a weird issue where one bank would try to go lean under WOT at random times. If something is wrong with the UCON it can cause all sorts of weird problems.

I figured out the UCON was the problem after buying a spare OEM ecu and having the TRD tune flashed on it and swapping that in. I highly recommend a spare ecu. Could save you a lot of time and headache if that clears things up

 

Coolant looks good all around, had a compression test done two years ago, all cylinders are about 168 on a motor with 220K at high elevation, so not bad all things considered. The head gasket went on a long cross country trip in September of 2011, I had it replaced with a newer sku number gasket and also had ARP head studs installed to keep it tight.

If it were not for frame rust / rot that I missed the recall on due to moving and losing mail, I would keep the truck for the long haul. But given the rust (spot treated and braced), mileage and and the FI whack a mole, I am honestly looking at new trucks.

 

OK, this brings a bit more credence to it being the Ucon, I also have gotten weird lean codes on one bank at times. So here is the thing for me, I have a job next week in which I need to drive the truck to the job, park for 10 days and then drive it back, about 25 miles each way. Gadget told me that running the 455 injectors and the TRD flash, I should be ok to drive it without the UCON on, but to not go over 50% throttle.

I am thinking I just need to keep it on there to get the job done then send it off to him to check over once I am home again. If anyone has any input on that, I would love to hear it. I don't need the truck becoming even more unstable with the UCON off.

 

Is your stock ECU flashed with the TRD tune? Or are you running a stock ECU with your UCON? Scott has told me in the past that using anything but a stock ECU with the UCON can also be a source of some problems. It sounds like you may have the TRD tune on your stock computer. If so, I’d send the UCON in and drive it with that. If not, I’d probably leave the UCON in place to be safe and take an extra coil with you to the job

 

TRD flash on the ECU, Gadget recently swore up and down I can run the UCON with the flashed ECU, but earlier reports have cited as you have above in that it creates problems for aftermarket tuning like MAPECU 3 and the UCON. I carry a spare coil with me anyway but it is always cylinder #6 that goes, the hardest one to reach. I probably ought to get a couple of wobbler extensions do fill out my travel tools.

I have an appointment with my tech to pull the UCON on Tuesday, I might just go ahead and do that then with the flashed ECU.

 

Anyone know where I can find a replacement nose shaft? The threads did not survive the last pulley install and of course I told myself the 2.85 pulley would be enough and of course I'm wanting to go to a 2.7 now.

That being said has anyone successfully used a shop press to press a pulley on instead of using threaded tool?

I use a shop press weekly for wheel bearings etc so I'm not scared to use it.

 

Yes, the shop I went to used a shop press to install my 2.85 pulley instead of the threaded tool. This was done prior to the blower install.

 

Awesome good to know thanks!

 

Do you happen to know if they heated first or just sent it?

 

I can't be for certain, but I believe they did not heat it up. It was a shop that had experience with Pony cars and Paxton, ProCharger, Vortech blower so I trusted that they knew how to swap pulleys on different superchargers.

 

Order from SCOL - Nose Drive Shaft, Input, Press Fit, PN M-52-01-03-702, $120

 

If you have access to a press, use it. You will also need to heat the pulley. You are looking at a .002/.0025 press fit, overkill, way too tight.

I just rebuilt a spare nose drive assembly and the press fit on these pulleys cost me a new drive shaft, two nose drive rebuild kits and a pulley. I'll post some pictures.