Harmonic Balancer Bolt

My thermostat cover appears to be on the upper front driver’s side, not really near the HB.

 

I haven’t been able to find a torque spec for the four smaller bolts that hold the A/C and power steering pulleys onto the harmonic balancer. Any of you guys know the correct tightness?

And, just out of curiosity, does anyone know why the alternator pulley needs to be rubber-mounted to the hub while the other two are solidly attached? It’s the rubber that has failed on my original part.

 

These trucks use 'Ribbed' belts not v-belts.....

without that little strain relief an older cracked ribbed belt wouldnt last that long.


Its really a pia, because when that HB goes out it can cause a lot of damage to front of timing case and crank shaft if not caught early.

And its all hidden......never know its going bad until its really bad.

 

That would make sense if not for the fact that only one of the three “ribbed” pulleys is rubber-isolated. Why does only the alternator belt need this benefit, but not the A/C or power-steering belts?

Yes, that’s how I discovered it was bad. The back edge of the wobbling alternator pulley began bumping the metal cover at low engine speed. It would gyroscopically straighten above idle.

 

A lot of you....me included probably have your belts too tight.

That just loads everything up .....stresses HB and those very expensive ac, alt bearings....

If you start getting a squeal at startup.....that's either you've gone too loose....
or your HB is starting to give out.....

 

After taking the center bolt out, the hub slipped right off using one hand. No puller needed..

My local parts stores wanted about $135 for the replacement, so I ordered this one on Amazon. Arrives tomorrow, unless they lied. Made in Vietnam, hope it fits.

$55 TRQ Harmonic Balancer Damper Compatible with Toyota Tacoma Pickup Truck 4Runner T100 3RZFE

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09PQR48XW?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

I probably had my belts too tight the first set I put on. Have followed Haynes manual ever since. Use a straight edge and measure tension with a stick rule.

 

There’s really not much to reassembly. The 4 other bolts I just did “good and tight” the biggest thing is to make sure the key is engaged. I took a pic with my phone then aligned the pulley to that and guided it in. 1st try no issue. Rotate it around to make sure. The engine should move with it.

I tightened mine to 190 it’s been 3 years.

Are you replacing the oil pump cover gasket and front main while you’re there? Highly recommend that.

 

No. I would have liked to replace the seal which mates with the balancer hub, but it looks like too much fiddling to get the timing cover off. That seal oozes a little bit of oil and gets the block dirty, but I never need to add between changes (5000 miles) so it can wait.

I practiced putting the old hub back on a few times. It was really easy to slip on until it bumped the key, then rotate until I felt it drop into place. Just hope the key stays tight in the shaft, because if it drops I think it will fall inside the timing cover.

 

Funky
Might be too late but I would RR oil pump/water pump while your in there
And
The rockauto h20 pump is the OEM!
(I have proof!)
Just 10-12 bolts

 

Original water pump

 

New RA water pump
Prt#A8

$58 WPT044 AISIN WPT-044 New Engine Water Pump with Gasket - Compatible with Select Toyota 4Runner, T100, Tacoma

WPT044

 

The OP from RA came with a pressed on crank seal as well and new Allen head fasteners

 

+1, I have been sad before from wrench handle hitting rad

 

Control Car, I’m at a little bit of a disadvantage with no access to a manual that I could use to estimate these various tasks.

The main thing I’d like to replace would be the harmonic-balancer oil seal that appears to be pressed into the part I’ve been calling the timing cover (but might actually be called the oil pump cover?).

Unfortunately, I’m 230 miles from home with my truck on ramps in a friend’s driveway, it’s my only transportation at the moment, and I actually have another issue (low-RPM stutter and power loss) to investigate when I get rolling again.

It was pretty easy getting this far, so having done this disassembly once I shouldn’t be too shy about repeating the process.

I do appreciate all the suggestions! I really wish there was someplace to browse or download a service manual for free.

 

Is the “front main” the same as the harmonic-balancer hub seal? Mine does leak a little, as I mentioned in another reply.

 

Yup. That presses into the oil pump cover and is attached to your timing cover.

I’m sure you can pop the front main seal out but I did end up pulling my timing cover to fix a leak and did it while it was off. Otherwise a harbor freight seal puller should do it no problem.

 

Well according to crazy o' scotty that seal pops right out.....

watch the video....

How not to replace your harmonic balancer | Tacoma World

 

So replacing the front main seal doesn’t require removing the cover it’s mounted in? Just pull the old one out and tap a new one in place with a block of wood?

Harbor freight only appears to sell one seal puller, and it isn’t designed to work on seals that have a shaft protruding through them.

I think I’ll order this from Amazon:

$15 USSKYBOY SP009 Cam and Crank Shaft Seal Puller, Shaft Type Seal Puller, Shaft Seal Removal Tool

https://www.amazon.com/USSKYBOY-SP009-Removal-Adjustable-Locking/dp/B0BTSR7C2H?crid=6IQXDFQDZ5T7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Xsg70Y7mP-P9gQ3TgWS39HCoHxMZPTXIoRLwvQMAC5XnOWZPD-HcqhutitXIayTutd8VzLjYljfmL7UyJHzINpL2G2W0XYAHh_PyoTJm4GIJ5FRWOGZL32S7ifbC6EK-GU07AH9WvToUGWim_8C0_5kwMPT8PLeAyCTKbKbFHvXUgNr9S4RKXCHlny4oJ04c8FH6m6QzKGl_8cTvlazg6A.CNnnTY2hlFCrgKzR8eMT7slkK3prZcRnuZmil69SMcI&dib_tag=se&keywords=shaft+seal+puller&qid=1718650351&sprefix=shaft+seal+puller%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm

 

Scotty just uses this one in the vid.....

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-not-to-replace-your-harmonic-balancer.324261/#post-8505197




I think it took him like ......half a second....

block of wood may not be best way to set the new one...


That tool from Amazon looks interesting.......but I'd bet zero garages have that tool..
they just use the $9 one thats worked forever.