Anything welding

Can't say we've been aquatinted outside of reading each other's posts in the long travel thread, which is where my high speed assumption came from.

 

I said "size of". I just want to know what heat treating costs.

 

I've seen those and actually welded some somewhere. I haven't figured out why A&A-mfg doesn't sell them. Or Toyota logo for that matter. Or the Chaos logo...now we're talking.

 

Well, with the boom in "overlanding" a lot of people prefer this sort of stuff to be an add-on in the drop-down menu when ordering their $1,500 modular roof rack

That or using their REI titanium bottle opener.

Since I'm poor and use plasma instead of laser, I can't see how I'd get a clean Toyota symbol in that 3" tall gusset. If I had a laser CNC setup though, easily!

 

Makes sense! I missed the keywords and made an assumption!

Heat treatment should be different depending on where you live; it's like those of us here comparing steel prices.

We buy the same size, same type, at different costs. Hell, some people even buy "new" steel and it's got surface rust on it.

Maybe some place that you can ship to? Now I'm curious.

 

i looked into some local places online real fast, and all of them have contact forms for pricing. but many of them are also mostly set up to deal with other companies, where they'll be running 1,000+ items through.

there's this, but has to do specifically with knife/sword heat treating. maybe guestimate off the sizes for that for a rough idea?
https://petersheattreat.com/blades/pricing/

this link has some more generic pricing guides for 'steel' vs. 'titanium', without specifying grades or alloy's, and they note their 'lot fee', which is likely similar to a machinist's setup fee.
https://www.focusedonmachining.com/blog/the-advantages-of-heat-treating-cnc-machined-parts

and there's this PDF of heat treating costs, but in Rupee's. and it's 2 years old.
https://www.iapht.org/price-list/heat-treatment-price-list.pdf

 

Knife making was immediately my first thought; maybe it's time to join a knife-making forum or blacksmithing

I've always wanted a power hammer

 

I'm not sure what the benefits of heat treating would be, but I know I'm not gusseting spindles or hear treating A -arms.

Those parts are supposed to fail before more expensive parts get bent...your frame for example.

As a person who buys wrecked Toyota trucks and rebuilds them, I am so thankful for bent spindles and tweaked A-arms. Those parts are cheap compared to replacing an entire frame.

Just my opinion.

Please carry on with the discussion.

Ko.

 

Thanks for looking. I didn't find anything online. The only local place to me does smaller stuff like knives. I think they said 12" x 8"x 4" when I called. I don't know I could with that size limitation.

ChatGPT says $0.50 to $3.00 per pound with small batches running on the higher end of that.

 

yeah, the knife shop limitation is definitely going to be an issue. they seem more used to dealing with custom/one-off stuff for individual customers, but then their oven size is drastically limited. but then the larger companies that have bigger ovens charge lots more, and prefer to process large bulk items for corporate accounts, and aren't individual-friendly.

 

For the seasoned welders out there, could someone provide some criticism on these welds just from a visual inspection? Looking to improve.

 

I think they look great!

My 1st impression is you might get a little better smoothness by going down a size in wire.

If you wanted a rounder weld, you could incorporate a very small amount of weave, but seriously, that is just fine.

I wouldn't have an issue seeing that type of weld on something I needed welded. I'm struggling to find anything wrong with it.

 

Awesome! I appreciate the feedback. I'll give that a shot.

 

my amateurs semi-professional self? lol

overall looks good to me. the large spacing between puddles makes it appear that you're moving slightly faster than your wire speed setting, but the heat marks and and material edge indicate good material penetration with the correct voltage settings

so you can either move the torch slower, or raise your wire speed slightly. you can also play with your technique more. from the bead profile, it looks like you're doing a straight back pass, move back half, pull back full, etc. right? i would try reducing the distance of each pass by about 1/3. but honestly, that's really only a final-look aesthetic alteration. for what i can see with the material thickness, i would absolutely trust that weld to outlast the metal it connected to in a failure.

 

Thank you as well! Yeah, you are right; i was moving the torch forward and back. I will give those tips a try. Again, I appreciate it

 

For my TIG welders

 

Omg

 

Put the kid down for a nap earlier and knocked this out



Using internet provided dimensions (not complete) I'm hoping this comes out real damn close which it should



Worst case it becomes a mock-up and I do a small revision

 

Don't ever sharpen TIG tungsten with the point facing upward against the grinding wheel as shown in the video. The tip can catch in the grain of the wheel, and bad things WILL happen after that. They can just as easily, and much more safely, be sharpened pointing downward.

Two of my fingers suffered significant damage, with one being permanent, learning that lesson. I posted the pic on here once and @koditten me upside my head for not using Spoiler Alert.

 

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