Long Travel BS Thread

Good point - I think those crew cabs are pretty roomy even in the back, but a big cab 3 seater won't be matched in that area. Or just go max capacity lol



https://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/getting-a-plate-for-a-prerunner.138297/page-8

 

Yeah I’m leaning heavily in the direction of crew cab
Shocks in the cab
Luxury 3rd seat
Like damn near lazy boy

 

Haha yeah I was in the truck for that one and it was a bit crazy. He hit that jump a few times and it was fine, then we turned the cameras on and he probably gave it a little extra juice and nose dived. Shot was sick though haha

 

How much performance are you realistically trying to get? Jumping it is too much but all the trucks posted previously aren't enough and too boaty?
Don't get me wrong those guys seem to give fuck all about the weight of the trucks so there's room to improve there but idk if there's that much more to get without the truck beating you up a bit still or being tiring to drive. An overbuilt truck that's a little boaty and sluggish sounds like the better option for you from the other half of the needs you've mentioned

 

Cantilever rear with a 5 seat stretched crew cab or a humvee with better drivetrain and suspension would get a good amount of smiles per gallon for a passenger comfort oriented vehicle

 

Unless a full on mezzanine like on pre- trophy truck class 8’s, cantilever isn’t going to perform with what he wants to do. I’d still do a big cab with modular 3-4 seating. If you want the trophy truck wheel base 3 seater prerunner then get the biggest smog exempt cab that will work and do a legit build.

 

Ideally
We do all year long off-road trips
But
Also schedule to run the mint and norra

 

This was for sale awhile back too

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=we6dJ0Mze2E

 

Hell no

 

Thing boogies though

 

Holy limit straps stretching batman. Took a tape measure to my limit straps, says they’re a 14” strap, but eye-to-eye I measured 15" dead. I knew they stretched over time, and that I should replace them, but that's a lot of stretch. Definitely explains the slight CV bind, and I also discovered my brake caliper hits my LCA on this strap. Been living life too dangerously.

 

1” per 12” of limit strap is what they should stretch loaded so 15” is very normal if loaded.

If that’s too long, go to a 13” strap.

 

Im gonna jack the lower arm and see what length it’s happy at. 1” shorter probably makes enough difference with motion ratio, but we’ll see.

Learned a lot wrenching on the truck this time around, now just hoping the new boots hold up.

 

Option 2, cut off tab and relocate. Or get an adjustable clevis and eliminate the tab all together.

 

Personally, if relocating the strap.

I find point of bind then remove at the very least 1.5” of wheel travel. Preferably closer to 2” as this will yield closer to 1” of safety net.

 

When does a CV bind technically? Slightly bumpy turning by hand or slightly bumpy with the wheel on? What’s a good guesstimate? Sometimes it’s a little bumpy but it doesn’t feel like bind…

 

Bumpy is 100% bind my friend.

 

Makes sense. I’d probably benefit a lot by seeing a bootless cv rotate at full droop. Might try to make that happen this go around. CVs are kind of a mystery to my brain.

 

Not sure how many of you guys on here even run stock axles anymore, but I designed a rear truss for the stock 3rd gen 8.75" axle and put it on SendCutSend's marketplace for if anyone wants the same thing to keep their axles from smiling
https://marketplace.sendcutsend.com/p/CS013626/2016-2023-toyota-tacoma-8-75-rear-axle-backbone-truss

 

Followed that on IG. Very nice work!

I will say though, these housings are going to be incredibly easy to warp with welding. The likelihood of causing more damage than you prevent is very high.