Betterbuckleup's 2000 taco build & BS

Heated seat mod?

 

Fire seat mod

 

You're not the first. Two other local dude with Aero pump have the same issue. Melting at the connector below the driver seat. I think it's drawing more power than what the factory size cable can handle.

 

What are the specs on the F5's and Yokohama's you're running now? Looks like you've ran a few different sizes?

 

Ya I think so. On paper it says that I have about 2.5 amps of headroom, for the rated 15 amps of the system. But I think I'm going to add a dedicated 10 gauge power wire eventually and add a bulkhead to the tank

The ones I have now are 16x8 with a 3.5-in backspacing. They're pretty flush with the side of the truck running fender flares. The 17x9s I had before were a 3.5-in backspacing and it kicked them out a little bit further from the fender just due to the wheel being wider. I was previously running a 295/70R17 tire on the 17-in rim and it actually stuck out more than my current 315/75R16 does on the 16 inch rim.

 

Developed ANOTHER exhaust leak in the same place at the flange after the cat. So I had a V-Band clamp welded in its place.

 

Found a good spot for my tauler Jack

 

Fun time at KOH last week. Truck performed great with no issues. Ran Wrecking ball with some buddies and then Turkey claw a handful of times in my rig.
I lost a driver side rear fender flare when bombing around on the lake bed unfortunately. But quite conveniently that's the only flare I have a spare for though. Just need to clean it up and install it. Might repaint all the others while I'm at it.

Just enough moisture on the ground to cut down on the dust, but the mud that was there really has a tendency to grab onto paint. The frontside of my axle housing in the rear is chipping, so I'll have to touch that up in addition to my tauler jack which now has no paint on the tongue portion.
I also found water coming into the cab on the rainy drive home from the port I used to run the methanol hoses in and out of the cab. Just need to slather some silicone on that spot.

The suspension worked great and took some hard hits here and there while trying to rip through some whoops that were definitely disproportionately sized to my truck. Cranking down all the way on the clickers in the front did help some, but it would really be helpful in this kind of terrain to have a bypass up front to really control the last 1/3 of travel. It would be cool to build a stock width sleeper with bypasses and hydros in the front and a short linked rear. But that realistically would be overkill for the kind of terrain I wheel most of the time up here in the sierras. Not so much go-fast stuff as compared to in socal.

Here are some random pics.

 

Also installed this RAM quick grip to replace my x-grip. I never really used it because it was a pain in the ass to get your phone in and out and it doesn't really even fit my new s23 ultra.

 

Installed the other half of the KPoffroad cam eliminators on the rear cams. I shortened the bolt on the lathe about 5mm so it came in less contact with the rack bellows.
Solo motorsports sent me replacement sleeves a while back so I installed those as well. Noticed that they didn't chamfer the inner diameter, so hopefully that creates more of a contact surface and doesn't let the sleeves dig into the frame pockets as much as they have been.






Old on left, new on the right


Notice the deformation on the faces of the sleeves. These are supposedly chromoly.


Passenger side, there's no contact with the steering straight.


Drivers side has slight contact. Would be a lot more in the bolts original length.


Driver side contact with the steering at full lock. Only with the bellow. Time will tell how the bellow holds up.

 

Why not just run the bolt the other way?

Might even be able to get it in with just pulling the bellows.

 

I had the same issue with my bolt touching the steering bellows as well, but was told that it's fine as is. I wish KPOffroad, would just listen and trim those darn things down a bit. Aside from that, I love the cam eliminator plates. No brainer when replacing the rusted out stock alignment hardware. @ForestRunnerFrank99

 

Easier to pull the LCA that way. And after machining the bolt down, I'm a lot more comfortable running it that way.
Dunno if you would be able to get the bolt out flipped the other way. It's really tight

 

Yea I agree. I reached out to him with the same concern and he had the same answer, so just took matters into my own hands. Every truck is different so I get airing on the longer side of things I guess. Nice to not have to worry about LCA alignment anymore though

 

Unfortunately, the rack must be removed, regardless which way the bolt is installed. Although, being able to change out the LCA bushings without removing the rack is still worth whatever percieved draw backs there may be.

 

Damn, got it out on the granite standard with the metrology equip and everything. Looks nice! Kinda a non standard size so I understand their reticence to providing them like that.

 

It's nice having the right tools for the job
They actually come already cut and shanked from KP, just not short enough for the rear imo.

 

Are those the drilled bolts for grease?

 

Ah, I didn't realize they were shortened already. They looked zinc plated already, yeah I'd cut em down more too then

 

They are not. I drilled the rear of my LCAs for grease zerks