1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Not sure who else is waiting for the Haltech UC-10, but pre-order is now available. The first batch of displays targeted for shipment on July 8th.

https://www.haltech.com/product-category/new-products/uc-10-pre-sale

 

For those of you who are having more frequent wideband failures maybe look at the placement of your wideband plug. Bosch style wideband sensors are calibrated at the factory and have a carbon resistor in the connector. Is the reason they don't need free air calibration like ntk sensors do but it also leaves an area for something to go wrong. This part of the connector is weather sealed with what looks to be a nice silicone o-ring but I don't doubt that it could get stuff in it if it's positioning was bad enough.

 

There she is boys

https://youtu.be/W10ZNOF8P10

 

I haven't been very active on this forum for a while. Nothing new to report really. My state requires inspection every 2 years so I just went through the routine of basically reverting back to stock, swapping injectors and ECU for it to pass. I was able to get it through by disconnecting the charge hose and rigging up the old MAF. Other than that, I deleted the cat and had to tune the boost control all over again. I figured whats the point of the cat, besides it really smelled bad. That UC 10 is awesome. I would have to sell a body part to afford it though.

 

I put in a road trip that was longer than 100 miles and my MPG is terrible! Like 11.5 to 13.5 depending on speed and terrain. My truck is far from the lightest and with the CCLB/GFC/LT/LC80 rear axle there is a ton of wind drag too but I was getting 14mpg ish on the stock ECU with the FIC6.

Has anyone done any efficiency tuning? I set the target AFR to 14.7 in a few cells I cruise at but it doesn't seem to help too much. Any insights?

 

I've done a lot of it, I'd need to do some road logging but in 90% of my cruising cells I set that bitch lean 15.3-15.5. Can't hurt anything being lean out of power. I even idle at 15.0. Another thing to look at before any of this is applying your long term trims and seeing where they're trending after, your map might still need some tweaking. It can be really hard with the SC to stay out of boost so you have to train your brain to look at the vac/boost gauge a bit and remind yourself that as you approach 0 it's essentially WOT on a NA engine. Another thing would be to increase timing in some places but without being there with a knock monitor I don't think I'd be comfortable doing that for you unless something is way off just by comparison to some of the other 5VZ I've worked on. If you send me your current map, as in save it right out of the ECU as it is so I can see how your LTFT are going as well, I can recommend some changes. I usually get 17-18 on the highway and thats on a truck with 35s and going 70+. I've gotten as much as 20 before.

 

I'm around the same fwiw. average 12. best I've seen is 13 pure highway. 3rz not 5vz though.
Never had high boost on the factory ECU so don't have a reference point there, but with low boost I was getting around 14 on the stock ECU.
Like @Speedytech7 said, it's had to stay out of boost with a SC, especially with a heavy truck. And the lack of knock control imo limits the amount of economy finetuning we can do. It's better to air on the safe side when you're only relying on your listening in the cab.
I try to watch my vac gauge while cruising and stay below 0 best I can.

 

I will try and get that saved out later today and sent over. I think the timing is a bit on the safe side as it doesn't feel like it lights off above 3K like it did with the FIC6 and stock ecu.

I'm on a 2500 with knock control so it should retard if it sees a knock event. I have yet to know if it does or has done it so far.

Thanks for the info gents!

 

Do you have the knock control setup properly and everything? Think you would be the first I've heard of since I've been dragging my feet on it

 

I'm around the same. Going really aggressive on timing in the cruising ranges should help in theory to squeeze out every ounce of power the engine has to offer at the same fuel flow, but you really need a dyno to do it properly. I'm probably going to drop my tire size down to 33s also on the next go-round, and go back towards a highway tire

 

I'm sure it comes with the usual completely inadequate presets gabe puts in. Basically does nothing

 

Yes afaik, I had SNP do the initial tune and he setup some tables to retard the timing if it sees knock. It uses the stock sensors.

 

Ok, ya, it's probably grossly maladjusted then. Mine might be a worst-case, but I couldn't even get a good lock on the knock frequency so it would just retard infinitely above a certain noise level on the stock sensors. I have widebands ready to go in.

 

The best you can really hope for with these sensors if it's completely saturating everything is going to the next harmonic

 

I'm not even joking, the FFT waveform looked like white noise. Idek how the factory ECU was ok with it
The Haltech has an upper limit too, so other harmonics are blocked

 

I know as the old sensors like we have age out they become noisier. But I wonder if some manual attenuation with a varistor or something would be possible

 

Makes me wonder if I was leaving some power on the table with the stock ECU and a 300k+ mile knock sensor....

 

Maybe, hard to tell, it's why the folks used to put the wrong sensor from a GM V6 on instead. Fool the compute into not retarding as much. The Toyota system is very sensitive even if it isn't hearing a ton of noise, it is very cautious. Any little thing can cause it to whack 10° out instantly and it only counts that back in .5° at a time so it can take 20 seconds to gain the timing back... Which it will only do in closed loop, so if you're giving it the beans you get nothing if it hears knock. Boosted engines make a ton more noise in general anyway so you can see how that would play out. I'm weird, but I prefer to treat timing on something like this as an open loop system. It makes things more predictable. I compensate by being a little safe with my timing and when I'm tuning I try to be as harsh as possible so if it's going to knock it's going to knock and I can whack the timing out of it myself appropriately.

 

Ah that makes sense about the GM sensor. Never really connected the dots on that. Didn't realize how slowly it added timing back in like that.

 

A passive bandpass filter on it would work, but that's what a narrowband is supposed to be in the first place lol