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A/C issues

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by TacoTuesday1, Jun 2, 2024.

  1. Jun 22, 2024 at 8:52 PM
    #21
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    update:

    cabin filter is dirty. I hear you want a plain white one and replace yearly so that probably needs done. That any other kind is restrictive.
    Condenser is dirty. Probably going to replace it, because trying to get a system to work as it should with known "faulty" parts doesn't make sense. I cleaned it before, somehow. It's dirty again.

    A clutch is cheaper than a compressor so I should probably do that. Despite any washing, I still see clutch residue at the compressor. At this point it has years and miles. Probably needs done.

    new findings:
    -R134a was barely low
    -the hot and cold metal lines in the engine bay, do in fact get warm and cold. That may be a problem. I think they're supposed to be hot and freezing. As in you can't hold your hand on it. But I can hold my hand on it.
    -hopefully my mods do not restrict A/C. Bumper lights. PELE shield on the duct, with a pre-revision cowling that barely comes with any vent holes.

    Put a new blower motor. Replaced resistor with a new one I had sitting in a box a few years. That may be an issue.
    Wiring looked fine. But who knows how good the "new" resistor is. If it's been dropped before.
    The fan DOES seem to modulate with speed according to the control knob. It is not the typical bad resistor "only works max or low with nothing in between"

    In fact, I am debating a CSF radiator. That shits expensive. A stock replacement with plastic end tanks, maybe Denso
    to do the whole front cooling system of condenser and radiator, is only like $80/ea.
    Not a CSF. $500. Ain't Nobody Got YouTube Sponsor Fo Dat

    I see Toyota lists a new A/C relay, whatever and wherever that is. For $60. They claim they go bad.
    All I know is there's a 10A fuse labeled A/C at hood fuse box next to battery, mini blade.

    What's weird is when I first noticed this issue, the lack of blowing made the cabin uncomfortable. So when I pulled over after an hour, it magically fixed itself. Temporarily.
    Almost like a little kid smacking the back of their computer while playing a video game.

    And I am still noticing the issue. Unfortunately the new blower motor didn't fix it. Oh well.
    Maybe I need to figure out how to really inspect and test every single blend door, actuator
    maybe day pass to Toyota TSB access.
    Because it's still doing it. What exactly? The main concern, which is basically...
    It feels and sounds like a blockage. I hear a shit ton of wind noise hitting a wall behind the radio. That's what it sounds like to me. It should not be noisy there.
    It sounds to me like there is a main pathway in the air distribution network. Tunnels. Whatever the hell it's called. That there may be a main door and it is stuck closed.
    Because when I put my hands on the vents, it is not the big stream of air I am used to. There is not much coming out. Even with a new blower motor. That's what that tells me.
    It feels like someone breathing on your face.
    So even however cold it is, if it's barely coming out then...the cab is not a nice place to be.

    I even saw a post claiming someone replacing their alternator fixed them having a similar problem claiming the voltage had slightly dropped on it from age and miles.

    what the hell do you mean something broke on my old vehicle with a lot of miles that has been driven through every environment known to man it's a Toyota I thought it was supposed to be reliable
    [​IMG]
    if it was German the condenser would've already fallen out 10yr ago

    I will assume the compressor has not 'sploded nor sent carbon through the system.
    when watching it run, the clutch kicks on and off a lot, and is noisy.

    [​IMG]
    that sounds good I'll see about hooking up the machine take readings to at least get more info on what the system is doing


    That's really the question. Does the whole dash need to be pulled out.
    Right now I'm looking at pulling the center, which I've made more of a PITA by adding RAM mounts. Remove knobs, unscrew with allen bit. Adds labor time.
    Pry out control panel. Unbolt 2 or 4 bolts, 10 12 or 14mm. Pull out radio.
    Inspect if someone pranked me by shoving a flip flop in there causing malfunction. See if I can even see anything.
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2024
  2. Jun 23, 2024 at 8:34 AM
    #22
    EME

    EME Well-Known Member

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    your shot gunning parts at it with no logical thought! if you have an air flow out the vent issue why are you looking at a condenser! fix the air flow issue first, fan/filter maybe the evaporator core is plugged externally and not allowing air flow. before throwing a condenser on it test pressures while running with a gauges on it NOT using your hand to test temp, pressures will tell you what's wrong and what direction to go in. changing fuses and relays without testing is a waste. you did not mention if air flow volume was after driving for a while or soon as starting the truck, in your post you said you stopped after driving and it fixed its self...low freon will cause the evap to ice up and have no air flow into the cab, turn ac off or stop truck and it will melt the ice and ac will work again until it freezes up again.

    I see 2 different issues 1 fix air flow, 2 test AC properly, fix air flow first
     
    unsub likes this.
  3. Jun 23, 2024 at 8:48 AM
    #23
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I hope the evaps not dirty like this guys:

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jun 23, 2024 at 9:54 AM
    #24
    spitdog

    spitdog Well-Known Member

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    Well it’ not rocket science. Do you park under deciduous trees?
     
  5. Jun 23, 2024 at 10:31 AM
    #25
    TacoTuesday1

    TacoTuesday1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    No.

    These trucks have:
    -a cabin filter
    -hood
    -black plastic cowling above the HVAC duct

    therefore technically leaves should not be getting into the evaporator, and I have no idea how that guy in pic had that happen
     
  6. Jul 11, 2025 at 6:21 AM
    #26
    unsub

    unsub New Member

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    This past winter in N. AZ., I decided to put in a Hepa cabin air filter. What could it hurt, right? Always had it on high defrost.and didn't notice the loss of air flow or speed control. Did notice that only High worked when it hit 100 here. Threads here helped me get the problem diagnosed quickly - replaced the resistor and plug. One problem fixed. Air flow next - remembered the Hepa changeout, so removed it. Instant air flow. Put a new cheapo filter in. All is well. Problem and cause of problem fixed. So it seems anyway. Went for the Hepa initially due to mice getting in the fan. Now to fix that. Wondering if the extra resistance of the different filter burnt out the resistor. Thanks all.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2025 at 11:24 AM
  7. Jul 11, 2025 at 9:32 AM
    #27
    CraigF

    CraigF Well-Known Member

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    none yet
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cabin-air-intake-screen-mod.566441/
     

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