Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Guys running the fox coil overs from JD, are your reservoir hoses a lot longer than than the king ones shown on their website?
Mine came with different fittings so I’m assuming the intended location is different, but nothing seems to fit well without having to loosen and rotate some of the JIC fittings (as opposed to the o-ring fittings which I wouldn’t have to repressurize afterwards)

just looking for some reference pics if anyone has any


And reference pic from their website of their king coilovers

 

I finally replaced my KO2's which ran a little small with some MT's that run true to size. My 35x12.5's are now rubbing on my secondary shock bypass tubes at full lock (KO2s were closer to 12" wide when measured, the MTs are spot on 12.5"). I'm running 17x8.5 +0's (~4.75" bs). I need some new rims anyway so I'm eyeing some 17x9 -12 (~4.41"). I'll probably 3D Print a 0.34" spacer to see if I can replicate it for my sanity but has anyone run into this/has a backspace they feel confident with?



I guess I'll just stop being lazy and print some options.

 

Ill let you know in 3 weeks when I do the front install, the Coil/Overs and Bypasses are currently at WheelEveryWeekends shop. I can get measurements for you if needed..

Here's a a picture of the C/O's if that'll be helpful

 

The line is flexible, just push it over, and maybe roll the resi a little bit if you have to

 

You can eek some adjustment out of the JIC fittings without losing pressure.

https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/which-fitting-can-i-adjust/

 

Thanks, but I'm hoping to be driving again in 3 weeks! although i probably said the same 3 weeks ago...
Interesting the shock side hose end is a 90 on yours and a 45 on mine but that is a minor difference that shouldnt change anything significant.

Looks like I'll have to, it'll be a little weird with the hose "blocking" the adjuster knobs if I twist the line outboards. I need to get a tire on to see if I have any clearance concerns with the reservoir so far forwards (still waiting on UCAs and JD joint pins to ship from JD so I can get the corner mock assembled)

Good to know, that could help a bit.

 

Could mount it to the inner fender right above the location you're holding it at. Might give you enough slack to be flush.

 

Well turns out the left shock sure feels like it has no precharge in it (should I be concerned?)
So was able to do some mocking up and twisting fittings without leaking a drop.
Any negatives to standing up the reservoir?

 

no negatives to mounting it that way.

fox is pretty bad for shipping brand new shocks with already blown seals and no charge, so I'd definitely fill those with nitrogen and check them a day later.

 

aligned buddy's truck (stock)

need to do mine next (JD pivots, UCA's, 35's) and see what I get, or can get

 

Wawaweewa! Famous friends you have.

 

Rear housing is bent.

 

I mean…read heads and centering isn’t always perfect.

 

My truck wandered all over the place (still does again), I finally noted the rear thrust angle and toe was off, replaced the rear housing and straight as can be.

 

1. You’d think it would have to be by much more
2. From a hit
3. Other issues like vibes etc and maybe interfering with rear axle shaft, taking out bearing(s), etc

 

ok not to set a panic. Talked to Jesse today for the shock towers. He confirmed it moves up the shocks 2 inches. End of the call, he told me that he’s sending me new hardware for the uniballs. Apparently had some bad batch and not heat treated right. I just changed my LCA emf’s out to the new ones couple months ago. Probably just gonna watch the truck closely. Hoping don’t have to take the uniballs out.

 

Wonder if the upgraded shock tower uses same 8” shocks or will this now be in the 10” realm?

 

Personally I wouldn't risk it. Jesse's sending me new balljoint pins (bolts) too as my original ones were also in the bad batch of heat treat and sheared around 50lb-ft of torque during initial install. As it shears in the "hidden" part within the uniballs and the press is still there, you probably wont notice until it is fully separated, and that is a bad failure mode.
Don't drive until you swap it out with the new one piece pins

 

I've had the replacement lowers ever since the dust up happened a few months ago (still on the shelf at this point) and just ordered ball joints for the uppers yesterday. How can I tell if I have a bad batch? Smell?