Oil filter housing

Why isn't the filter housing socket working??? I bought it at the dealership. The teeth don't mate up with the housing you can see I slightly damaged the teeth on the housing. What am I doing wrong?

 

Get the Motiv-X tool, it always works well.

 

you did not say what engine you have and no hint in your info on forum. 4 or 6 cylinder? that wrench is for 4 cylinder according to the matco page i iust found searching for TOY110A. i don't know if it matters but should eliminate that question.
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/...cylinder-application?referer=ZVBhZ2VfMTEyNDM5

 

That's the problem. Engine is 6 cylinder.

 

i looked a little more after posting and confirmed 4 cyl at matco site (fixed post). i still don't know if if is different
from 6 cyl. but something worth resolving. could be they are different. i only know my 6 cyl.

ps. add some truck info to your profile so people here have a better idea how to help.

 

mine has the slots on the side to...so it cant slip unless the tabs break.

 

I am not 100% positive but fairly sure the housings are the same size for 4, & 6 cyl. It is the filter and guts in the housing that are different. I think the housing is over-tightened in the current case. You can try a standard 65mm Toyota oil filter socket with 14 flutes.

Note: I be wrong. The 6 & 8 cyl use the same housing. 4 cyl is different. Dimensionally, the two Matco sockets look the same. The 6/8 cyl version adds the flutes.

 

if it puts pressure on the tabs thats what causes the housing to crack

 

the 4 cyl has a metal oil filter......totally different

 

Yes, a spin-on. I was referring to the 4-cyl housing wrench that the OP purchased. He got the one that some 4-cyl engines in sedans use.

 

Yeah... but i just tighten mine till its stops...I think some of these Monkeys are over tightening them..

 

They for sure are. Last time they did an oil change they had to use a breaker bar to get the damn housing off. Can't even trust dealerships to do basic shit anymore .

 

This happened to me when I went to change my oil at 15,000 after the 10,000 mile one was done at the dealership under Toyota care. Never happened since I been doing it myself.

The OP has the wrong cap wrench. Get the motivX one or the correct one from Toyota.

 

what the dealership oil change guys don't understand, when the O-ring is correctly installed, it is the SIDE pressure of the O-ring that seals the oil in. not bottoming out and tightening beyond the torque spec which only serves to lock up the assembly. it does nothing to keep the oil in.
it seems the dealerships could see that the oil changers understood this, requiring only a sentence or two, before letting them loose on customers.
the first time i changed my oil after toyota "care" it was difficult to loosen, like so many others here.

 

Because dealerships hire rack monkeys to do the low paying service work.

 

most techs, 'kwik loob' and dealer greasers, don't add oil to the o-rings. i have minimal problems removing the plastic housing once the o-rings are properly oiled.

 

I also doubt they pre-fill the filter assembly so it doesn't run dry quite as long at the first fire-up after an oil change.

 

Yep. Freshman physics 101. Only slightly more technical than plain common sense.

 

I have both the matco and motivx brands.

Both have removed even damaged housing.

Email matco, maybe they sent you the wrong one

 

i don't either.