Suspension Suggestions Needed - GFC Camper Build

I'm with @TenBeers , there is absolutely no reason to run a 700lb spring unless you're running something severely heavy up front. I have an ARB front bumper, with a synthetic roped winch, and the 650lb spring of the Icons, and now 6112s has been good. 700lb would be horrible on the OPs truck. Even 650s might be a bit much, unless he plans on moving up to a heavy steel bumper or at least a hidden winch install.

 

The e-loads I run are rated for 3417 per tire. The tires are much stiffer and can be run at higher air pressures to reach their maximum weight capacity. To get full capacity, I think I'd have to run 80psi. I only run 60 in the rear loaded, and 55 in the front with my camper. I'm heavier than you, but after driving with the E-loads, I think it handles the heavy load much more controllably than my previous tires did since you get less sidewall flex. But, they do ride like utter crap when I take the camper out if I don't drop pressure back down to 35 or so. The E-loads are also way less likely to get punctures, as they are a "ten-ply rated" tire. Not really ten ply anymore, but much heavier duty plies.

 

That's a bigass camper you have in your truck!

 

Ran AT Habitat for little less than three years (much more comparable to your GFC).




But yes, I definitely gained weight going to my Scout.

 

That's frickin' sweet dude. Looks like a badass setup.. I can't imagine what your MPGs must be though.

 

Pulling my car trailer makes a way bigger difference than the camper. It's not much different than when I had the Habitat. The bigger hurt for my MPG prolly came from my regear. I'm not sure I can even hit 15 anymore on the highway UNLOADED. Long trip around 50-55 mph i can get around 13.5 mpg loaded with camper. Towing 4500 pounds or so behind the camper, it drops me into the low to mid 8mpg range. Towing that at 85 got me 6.4mpg. I will never do that again, hahaha.

 

Look at the 5125's for the rear as opposed to the 5100. When upgrading my leaf springs I was going to go with 5100's at all four corners, but after speaking with a rep at Hotshot Off Road I got the 5125's for the rear. The 5125's are not height adjustable so their length will need to be matched to what lift the new springs provide. The 6112/5160 would be an awesome set up, but the cost of the 6112 with coils were 75% of the cost of my entire set up (5100/OME885 and 5125/RXT option 2) and over kill for my needs, but I'm not constantly carrying any overland gear.
Your truck sits good with all of that weight. My Sport's stock suspension would sag from just my scrawny 160 lbs. standing in the bed.

 

Thanks for all of the input. I've reached out to Accutune to get their input, too. Leaning towards either the Deaver Stage II or Stage III for the rear leaf pack. Now it's trying to decide between shock setups. (Bilstein 6112/5160 or possibly Ironman 4x4... or Kings

 

OK. Updated thoughts/plans:

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Old Man Emu MT64 Strut MT64901007 × 2

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Old Man Emu MT64 Shocks MT64601014L × 1

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Old Man Emu MT64 Shocks MT64601014R × 1



Deaver Expedition Stage 2

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KYB Strut Mount

$29 SM5640 - Mount Kit

SM5640 × 1

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Icon Upper Control Arm Delta Joint Tubular Kit for 2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma × 1



OLD MAN EMU FRONT COIL SPRING SET 4004 × 1

I'm torn on the UCA options... Does anyone have input on the Icon Delta vs. SPC vs. JBA vs. others?

 

I just ordered a set of the mt64, hoping they come in the next two weeks. I am not doing a full leaf pack just an add a leaf, worked great on my 08 and trying to stay at about 1.5- 2 in. from what Ive heard from other people they are great. I had SPC uppers on my 08 as well and the ball joints were a little weak, they were loose in less than 3 years. They sent me new ones under warranty but still had to pay to get them installed so didnt love that. Since I am trying to stay below 2 in lift I am going to try to keep the stock uppers and if I cant get the alignment will probably get the OME ones since they are designed for the kit. just my .02. Will get a better review in here for the mt64s once I get them. Set up looks great btw, thinking about getting the gfc myself.

 

I just pulled the trigger through Shock Surplus at the end of June on the MT64 setup, Deaver Stage 2 Expedition, & SPC UCAs. Super excited to get them installed. A bit reluctant to get the CMC done but with -25 offset wheels, I don't think there's another way. Will report back once the suspension is done, CMC, ECGS bushing, etc. Hoping it goes well.

 

looking forward to seeing your review and some pics. My shop has everything in but the front shocks so should be any day now. Looking forward to seeing more of these out in the wild

 

Sorry to threadjack, but tell me more about your regear...

I've been looking at going to 5.29s in my 3rd gen and will be on 33's. From what others report they kept around the same MPGs or got slightly better(15-17) but drivability is far better. I was aiming for keeping the same daily MPGs but gaining drivability when towing my ~1500lb squaredrop in the mtns...

 

I'd suggest spending some time on http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html and look how tire size and differential gear ratio play into RPMs at a given speed.

For me, I'm turning about 18% more RPMs to maintain the same speed as a stock 2nd gen. That and the added rolling resistance of heavier/taller tires and the 1000+ pounds of bumpers and such and 25+% fuel mileage hit sounds about right.

If you have an automatic 3rd gen, I think you have the AC60F transmission, and the standard Tacoma/FJ Transfer Case, and a 3.91 rear diff. Going from 265/70r16 to 285/75r16 and 5.29s you'd see about a 26% higher RPM at a given speed. So at 70mph a stock truck is spinning 1743 RPMs while you'd be spinning 2198 RPMs. It would be much easier to get to speed, but turning RPMs like that, there's no way you are going to get better MPG or even remotely the same.

 

Yes auto. I've messed with that site. 6th gear is just too low of rpm so right now I run in 5th all the time. That calc shows with 5.29s I should be close to the same rpm but in 6th gear, so my assumptions is I shouldn't see much of a hit, and my hopes are since it will be easier to turn the tires it won't cause much of an impact with combined mpgs. Right now you can feel the engine struggle so I imagine its dumping fuel trying to build power.

 

Similar situation. I was stuck mainly using 4th, since 5th was pointless towing unless driving downhill. Now, being a bit over geared, I can use all 5 again when towing, and it's been great. However, when I'm empty, I wish I had a 6th gear, lol. People tried to convince me to go 5.29, but on 32s I'd have been turning 37% higher RPMs than stock! You really only have 4.88 or 5.29 to choose from if you want any noticeable gains, but just don't be surprised if your MPG takes a bigger hit than you expect.

 

The $3-4k you'll have to spend on a re-gear can buy a lot of fuel.

That said, 5.29s are probably the best mod I've done. I say send it - get the gears, stomp the gas, and forget about mpgs.

 

I dont worry about the mpgs much for daily, but when we head out west it gets expensive fast. I used to have a X5 diesel that saw nearly 30mpg highway, our trips cost nothing in fuel with that, but now... I still cringe a little at the pump lol