Motorcycles BS Thread 2.0

Gdamn.... that 300R in the Grey LOOKS FREAKING SHARP. Like that is a BEAUTIFUL looking dirtbike. The more I read up on that KLX300 motor the more I fall in love with it - and thats coming from a guy whos always been MEH on kawi ANYTHING. Its a proper all around motor of a good trail bike that SO MANY including myself loved from the mid 90s to early 2000's (before the high strung 4 stroke motors took over). Does it make a bunch of power NOPE... but it has PLENTY for 99.9% of riding any normal person will do, and produces it in SOOOO MUCH BETTER of a method (nice n smooth and linear) to make the experience amazing let alone the WAYYYYYYY easier maintenance intervals.

As far as suspension it makes sense with the R being plusher. Street models will often see firmer sprung or likely firmer valving on the suspension to deal with more aggressive higher speed stuff whereas the off road stuff will be lighter valved for small bump compliance for a better planted ride.

Man.... im jealous. I keep wanting to big time but keep putting off an SS braided line set for my super tenere.... I WISH it was just 2 lines. Its 5 total soft lines for JUST THE FRONT BRAKES.... another 2 for the rear... and another 2 for the clutch. ugh.

 

Children.... Children... Control yourselves.

Playing in the dirt satisfies only so long Baubles, beads, and dust.

 

Speaking of Brakes. These showed up this evening.



After some research I landed on EBC HH's up front and the ebc organic GG's in the rear. I was going to go OEM pads but dove down the rabbit hole and sorted out that the OEM fronts are an HH friction sintered metal compound and the rear are an FF friction and organic compound. So I could get the very good EBC sintered metal HH's up front (used these on other bikes before great pads) and an Organic pad out back with a slightly better friction rating for a somewhat decent chunk less than OEM. (I think like 25% less overall).

Now normally id just slap EBC HH's front and rear without a care in the world. But with HOW INSANELY QUICK (6100 miles) the super tenere tore through the tusk sintered metal (maybe HH?) rear pads i put on it led me to do that deep dive. @but why tho , @50Buck and there was one other on here that had a super tenere. For some reason it seems the rear rotor on the super ten with how it was designed and the fact it MIGHT be softer, but more over how aggressive the Unified Braking System is on the super tenere and how much it leans on the rear brake, the rear rotor can get eaten pretty quick if you use a hard grabby pad like a full sintered metal HH pad vs a soft organic pad. My rear rotor on the super tenere is definitely more worn than the fronts. Id rather buy a 30$ pair of rear brake pads than try and source a wacky rear brake rotor.

 

Well said F it and went down and installed the brake lines. Rear was a super easy to bleed but the front!!! Holy crap that took so long to get the air out. I pumped fluid through the line until it was coming out the bottom then installed it in the caliper but it still took what seemed like 45 min of pumping and cracking the bleeder valve. Finally got most of the air out. Now it’s sitting with a zip tie on the brake lever and I will go out in the morning and see if I can get anymore air out. I am sure there has to be an easier way.

 

Started my moto obsession in the dirt, it still remains, wont ever leave the dirt .......

 

I live a mile off pavement, just spooned a "Mutant" on the sport bike, think'in I need a Honda Trail 125.

No, "won't ever leave dirt..

But this thread is has been getting a bit like some confused youngster pine-ing for some unicorn 300....

 

Dirtbike front brakes especially are TOUGH to bleed. Trying to push air that wants to fight direction of travel of the long almost vertical front brake line is near impossible paired with the usual loop that creates a high spot taller than the master makes things almost impossible.

For something like that, either reverse bleed - push fluid from the bleed nipple at the caliper UP to the master cylinder or better yet remove things let me explain.

Install the brake line ON THE BIKE with exactly where the master cylinder and caliper will be with proper line routing with proper banjo bolt placement. Then remove the master, line, caliper from the bike all in one unit. Position things so that the caliper is at the lowest point (with a block of wood in the piston area so it cant pop out) and the master is at the highest point without any major high spots etc - reverse bleed with a syringe. cycle things a few times as far as lever pulls and pistions being pushed back in. Let sit. Jiggle master cylinder (which is the highest point still) to get any air thats at the top up into the reservoir.

Next move the caliper to the highest point but make sure the master cylinder is closed (lever pulled in) so any air settled into the caliper. Put back on bike then bleed like normal.

Realistically if you get it 90% of the way and ride it riding will get air into the high points in the calipers or the master - problem is on a dirtbike is that front brake loop that sufices for suspension cycling. SOMETIMES you can get away by pushing down this loop so there isnt a high point so air makes it all the way to the master cylinder.

 

I did what you said and did push down the line so the master was the high point. I think I have 95% of the air out and putting the zip tie on the brake lever should get the rest in the line to travel up to the master. Then in the morning I can squeeze out the rest of there is any left in the caliper.

 

Rear brake on my Buell is similar to this. The high point in the rear line is the brake light switch! Only way I could ever bleed it properly was to remove the clamp that holds the brake light switch up on the frame, remove the caliper from the rear hanger, and lay the whole mess on the floor in as straight of a line as possible. Bleed it off the bike then reinstall the whole affair once it was bled. Thankfully that system is silicone based DOT 5 so it doesn't absorb water like DOT 3 or 4.

 

ahh i see

ya i like the grey but me personally i prefer the green haha im not super picky on colors thou since you can always add a new color style with graphics! agreed on the motor and how it delivers its power, everything ive read is its a classic old school dirtbike with modern bits that it needs to have to keep up with everyone else.
which in a sense makes sense for what you mentioned there and what others have said about it on how its just a simple woods bike that will do everything most want to do and then some.

ya i know about the suspension its just odd coming from a dual sport after all this time then to super soft like hmm interesting haha.

ive been in the dirt since i was born so imma stay in it lol

agreed lol

 

I'm 6 ft and she is a lot more flat footed on those Rebels than I am on the GS800 with the Corbin seat.

You might have her try on one of the Kawasaki Vulcan S. They are pretty quick and should be able to run the highway as well as squirt around town.

Get her in a MSF class.

 

speed bleeders? or an air assisted vacuum bleeder?

 

its super weird to me that Revzilla has tents now. And a whole camping section. At least they arent insanely priced.

https://www.revzilla.com/tents

 

ya the rebel is what she seemed to like even thou my bikes show she is annoyed with me or looking at something on the bike haha.

the vulcan we looked at (photos nothing in person) but she doesnt like it as much plus not trying to get her into something fast truly for a first bike (even thou her first bike will be a dirtbike)

thats the plan is to have her do a msf class after she has learned from some dirt riding atm she is fine with ridding on the bolt so first thing she wants to buy when she can is a small dirtbike. then when she feels comfortable with it she wants to go to a class and get an actual motorcycle. so maybe next year? depends on if she decides she wants a new car by that time frame since her car is junk.

 

moto camping has gotten hot over the past few years. Think that has something to do with it lol.

 

Entrepreneurs like Motocampnerd showed that motocamping gear sells, so the big companies are going to pile in to try and take that sliver of the market too.

 

Good brand too, Alps makes good gear.

 

I bought a few things recently from moto camp nerd. He puts handwritten "Thank You" notes on each order. I wasn't able to buy my tent from him as I was able to save $100 off Amazon. But if it's close in price.....I'd rather give my money to folks like him.

 

Im planning on going moto camping for Labor Day weekend. Took the day before and after off, for 5 days total.

Sad that that will be my first of the year. But hopefully some more trips in the fall when the weather is cooler. This summer has been brutal. Only went once in the truck too