4WD Low for backing a trailer uphill

Hey guys,

I recently invested in a 5 X 10 cargo trailer. I figured I could pull it with my 2.7 2012 manual Taco in a pinch, although normally I'll likely use my 3.0 ecoboost explorer.

Saturday, I had the trailer at my Mom's house to pick up some stuff, with the taco. I had to back it up her drive while it was empty. Her drive is about 150 feet long, narrow and has a curve in it. Oh, it's also on a steep grade and the road it tees onto is on an even steeper grade.

I got it done, but by the time it was in position at the top of the drive, parked and ready to load the smell from the clutch was embarrassingly pungent. (OK. It stunk. Sometimes when I write shit like this I go all "Noah Webster" for some freeking reason....anyhoo...)

Later on I was thinking I should have tried it in 4WD Low. Biggest reason I was riding the clutch was to ease it back up the drive and not put it in Mom's yard to the left or into the drainage ditch to the right. Seems like Low might have let me go slow enough with the clutch all the way out.

Anyone see any downside to this. At 125,000 my Tacoma is still rocking the factory clutch. I'm not scared of changing it myself, but it looks to be a pretty big job....so I'm in no hurry to take it on.

Thoughts?

 

my clutches last 200k so you might be ok

4 lo is great for back up to a trailer!!!
Turning isnt good on pavement at all though and there is a mod to disengage the front diff

 

I’ve always wanted a 2Lo module, but when they come up for sale, I don’t want to pay that much. Mainly because I’d use it once a year and not really needed.

Sometimes they come up used.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2lo-kit-for-2nd-gens.554456/

 

I bought one. It was kind of an impulse buy, and honestly I rarely use it. But FWIW I've long since forgotten about the cost, and the couple times a year I do use it, maaaan does it come in handy. Backing trailers uphill, steep paved boat launches, etc.

Even unexpected uses have come up, like crawling through a long winding line for an hour making my way into a venue parking lot. That way I can idle along at half a mile an hour for way longer at a time, without dancing on the clutch every 15 seconds just to catch up to the car 25ft in front of me before I hit 800rpm. And be able to make the turns without binding.

They're a little pricey for what they are, and it's not hard to DIY the wiring mod (to bypass the front axle disconnect) yourself, but it is a well-tested plug-and-play module that keeps all the OEM safety features and doesn't require cutting into your harness.

10/10 would buy again, highly recommend if you come across one.

 

I tow my boat and use 4L every time when I'm backing up the long driveway. Better than burning clutches.

 

That's a common problem with modern trucks and manual transmissions. Old school trucks were geared lower, and their engines developed torque at lower rpm's. Just about every truck made since the 1990's is a PITA to back with a manual. The torque converter in an automatic eliminates the problem. That's the main reason they no longer offer manuals in 3/4 and 1 ton trucks designed to tow heavy loads.

Over the years I've owned more manuals than automatics. When backing with a manual with all of the newer ones I've always used low range. It's not ideal, but you're not going to spend much time in 4wd and probably not turning any sharp corners. It's the lesser of 2 bad options. Do it sparingly and avoid sharp turns.

The 2 low option is NOT a good idea. Back in the day when 4X4's had 3 sticks in the floor and manual locking hubs it was easy to shift into low range without engaging 4X4. They had warning labels on the dash and in the owner's manual warning you not to do so. I've seen guys snap U-Joints doing this. Modern trucks are designed so this can't be done for a reason. And since they can't be used in 2low from the factory they no longer post warnings not to do it.

 

That's a valid point worth mentioning. That's a whole lotta torque available to send through only one driveshaft/diff/axle, so there is a degree of risk involved, and you need to be gentle when in 2lo. But as long as you're not romping on it, it should be just fine. Easy on the throttle and smooth on the clutch engagement

I feel like those warnings are for people who shift into lo range because they need the torque of 4lo and forget to lock the front axle in. Or think 2lo will make them able to tow 30k lbs down the road.

The 2lo module's target audience isn't looking to be able to pull heavy loads aggressively or put down more torque with reckless abandon. It's just to ease up on the poor clutch when the insanely tall reverse gear makes it difficult to back up with any degree of finesse, especially with a trailer. Same deal with pulling a boat up a steep launch with a 90degree paved turn, where my only other options are to either roast the clutch, spin tires, or bind up in 4wd. I switch to 2lo in those scenarios and barely go above 10-1200rpm to get the job done

 

Well-stated. I lucked out a year or two ago & picked up a used 2LO module here on TW forums. I use it almost daily, pulling in & out of my short but steep driveway. I've also used it to back somewhat heavy trailers upslope, didn't have any problems but will keep in mind, in future, that if it is possible to use 4LO it's much better to share the torque load across both diffs, not just the rear.

 

Does the trailer have brakes by chance? If so, are they surge, electric or other? The reason I ask is that brakes on a trailer - particularly surge brakes backing up a hill - can make a big difference in the amount of resistance.

 

Big supporter of the 2LO module and glad I picked one up when available. It is/was an excellent plug & play mod. For those few times a year when I use it, it is simply the best to keep full range turning and the low torque. It was the first thing I missed when I got my '06 OR and was actually surprised (duh) when it was not there. I've used 2LO regularly on all the 3-stick vehicles owned; Dodge Power Wagon, CJ, GMC, straight axel Toyota's and 22RE 4-Runner. Never had an issue and always glad to have that option. With new 4x4 vehicles and their sophisticated traction systems and crawl control can see where it might not be as much of an issue but nothing beats full range turning when jammed up.

 

Oh yeah, If I'm off-pavement or at least going straight and can use 4lo without binding, up I opt to do that instead. Better to spread the load across all 4 corners when possible

 

This is one of those 2999 GVWR trailers that does not have trailer brakes.

Before buying it, I was pretty convinced I would need to put brakes on it just based on my experience with 7000 GVWR trailers (car haulers). So far, I've been pretty convinced that I don't need trailer brakes for the 2999 trailer. It pulls so easy and braking has not been an issue of any kind. I did splurge and spend a couple of hondo on a backup camera for it. It's not super helpful for backing (side mirrors are better) until you get near something that you want to back up close to without hitting. It's the berries for that.

I hard mounted the camera to the trailer but just bought a power-plug adapter for the monitor (it's designed to be hard-wired to the truck). That way I can move the monitor between tow vehicles.

 

The 2lo module is awesome, not used too often but it's awesome. I have zero concern about snapping axles, I barely touch the gas pedal. :shrug:

I used my old '94 in 2lo all the time for the same reasons, never a problem. I'm sure there are instances where excess weight or throttle input could cause failure, but being smart and knowing what you're doing will prevent those issues.