Long Travel BS Thread

Sometimes the best tool is the one you cut to fit.

~Sent from cut up mid travel 1st gen on 35s

 

Safe/smart to cycle shocks without nitrogen?

 

That’s how you cycle them….
Unless you’re the hulk and can compress them at the same rate the weight of your truck does

 

I understand that. I read a blurb about cavitation or possible air introduction

 

Should I have a few psi in there just to keep ifp in it's place?

 

Torque spec for the rod end jam nuts on my links. I have the ability to achieve this, but for the sake of future me ever wanting to undo them, I'm not sure I want to. Thoughts?

Haven't used rod ends this big before, but my 1" jam nuts didn't see half that torque and never wiggled loose. Salty air here may be to blame since it tends to act as a natural locktite on absolutely everything.....

 

the math way to decide is by figuring out the max axial forces that thread will ever see, add in a safety factor, and then calculate the torque that provides that clamp load. As long as you torque above that clamp force, it'll be fine.
But of course defining that load case is super hard and the torque to clamp load calculations are highly dependent on various friction interfaces that are hard to justify the appropriate mu for.... so I'd vote you just go as tight as you can comfortably do and then just use torque seal to keep an eye on it

 

723 and torque seal it is then.

Going to forego any locktite though to keep from changing up the friction and ending up with a ton more tension on the rod end/bung than I need.

 

Shouldn't need it just don't take the valve core all the way out, the IFP seal would have to be leaking for it not to end up right where it needs to be when you're done. Just make sure you fill nitro fully extended

 

Any cavitation created by cycling will be eliminated once pressure is added. Air doesn’t just magically appear in a closed system without a failure. The IFP is moving with or without pressure. Cycle with 0PSI

 

The thing on the right took home best in show and the thing on the left took best import over the weekend. It’s the little things. Shows bore the hell out of me but generate business.

 

Yea if you can, put like 5psi in there to set the ifp seal and you should be able to move the shock still. Without any positive pressure in the resi you can accidentally pull air in when you go to cycle them. Nothin to be paranoid about, a spanner wrench and some more shock oil is all you need to open the shock and cycle the piston to bleed them again, but something to be cautious of.

 

That's what I was thinking. I'm sure shop air would suffice for mock up purposes

 

antiseize will cut that in half. Steel will expand .07% per 100 degrees of heat or somethin like that so a couple hundred degrees when you put it on as well will probably cut that in half again (just guessing there idk)

 

I have never done anything more than blue loctite and hand tightening with big croissant wrench

 

yea doesn't matter what it is just as long as it's a slight positive pressure to push the o-ring on the ifp evenly against the edge of the groove it's in

 

What we did with the crawler stuff was drilled the jam nut on a flat and tapped for a set screw. Crank tight by hand, tighten set screw and done.

 

I antiseized the rod ends into the link, but definitely not putting antiseize on the jam nut.

 

I like that. Was considering safety wire of some sort, but there really wasn't a good way to navigate the wire through the link side without welding on a tab.

Set screw is like a removable version of peening the nut.

 

They shouldn’t ever come loose just hand tightening as much as you can. But yes. The screw adds one extra layer of protection. Usually if a jam is loosening it’s caused by bind.