Sub-Zero Equal Length Y pipe.

Interested. 1 less cat I have to worry about someone stealing off my truck.

 

All good! I want this to all be as transparent as possible!

 

My understanding on bungs on the flange is only on forced induction and monitoring each side independently. If likely have the bungs on both flanges and the collector for the option. Most will get away with the collector as you noted.

 

At the flange is likely to decrease lifespan of the sensor, but for monitoring each bank I get it. However, even a single sensor will indicate an issue before an even bigger issue comes up. Hell, some get crazy enough to read AFR and EGT’s PER cylinder in the big money racing world.

But I’m happy to do what anybody wants, it doesn’t affect me at all!

 

Totally makes sense. Boosted applications we get used to things wearing out.

 

Cant wait till you come out with the turd gen version

 

Would love some honest input from those interested.

How many of you think a 2.5” outlet version should be offered?

How many think a 3” is the best all around option to grow into?

Once it’s done 2.5” there is no going to 3” without changing the entire collector. AKA entire Y as the collectors are different.

 

I think a 2.5 would be better for N/A applications based on my experience with the Spec-U, JFR and a bunch of individual parts testing.

I’d be happy to dyno test these on a N/A truck if you’d like to add to our thread.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1gr-fe-single-vvti-dyno-testing-by-ott.759616/

 

You could always add an adapter to go from 2.5" to 3" collector. I would think a lot of N/A guys would want 2.5 but def lets see what @JustDSM can help with.

 

I'd rather have 3" but this junction looks to be the most restrictive zone. Probably doesn't really matter if ppl taper it up to 3" after the flange.

 

The collector is one of the freest flowing areas of the Y pipe.

With all of this said. Who sees the issue with keeping a 3” outlet and just reducing down to 2.5 for those it will suite better?

 

I would say 2.5" would get you a larger target audience. Lots of people are not boosted. So 3" taper to 2.5" would be a good play. You can weld on an OE sized donut flange to make it mate up to stock exhaust. I used a Subaru 60mm collector flange when I made my catback.

 

Just drew up a flange to do just that. Will be 3/8” 304 tapped for factory hardware. So there will be a secondary “mid pipe” to adapt from the y pipe to a factory style “cat back” in either 2.5 or 3”

It just makes more sense to have things “boost ready”. We all know the whole “I’m not doing that” then 2 years later you do exactly that.

 

https://bloxracing.com/products/sub...MUiQlOxaK4Oqy2mQFdyOZa7rdsUzbWcRoCHfYQAvD_BwE

I think the only thing I had to do here was dremel out the mounting holes slightly.

 

The bellowed side is on the “cat back” portion. A flat faced flange will work well for the donut on the mid pipe.

 

You're right. I forgot about that.

 

I have a 3rd gen with a Maggy Supercharger that I would be interested in potentially doing this to, if you work this into the 3rd gen. At the moment I have a Carven cat back installed.

 

100% moving into 3rd gen as soon as finances are recouped from the second gen endeavor! Stay tuned!

 

Interested

 

Materials for final revision along with “mid pipe” are all ordered. Should be cooking some stainless next week!