6MT throwout bearing and clutch system shenanigans

Bout 3yrs/50k on my setup, no issues yet…

 

That's good vibes right there.

 

I don't know if it has anything to do with the increase in temps from summertime or not but I have noticed in the last month or so that when the truck comes up to temperature my clutch pedal feel becomes more firm then when its cold. Its not by an insignificant amount either. It almost feels like there is drag on the pedal at that point. Its not really been a problem (yet, fingers crossed) its just something I have noticed.

The only reason I bring this up is that the first few thousand miles after this install regardless of when it warmed up or not the pedal always felt the same.

I had the wife help me do a bleed just for shits and giggles, didn't see any air and it didn't seem to make a noticeable difference.

 

Anything interesting when looking through the inspection cover?

 

I’m late to the party here. Sorry. I’m just learning that someone had an issue with one of these.

This looks like the result of a bad bearing.
What bearing did you use? That wear on the fingers looks excessive to me. A bad bearing could definitely cause something like this.

I had outlined a sort of “break-in” procedure for new bearings somewhere back in this thread. Any chance that you saw it ?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...stem-shenanigans.698464/page-28#post-29224732

Can you share a pic of the bearing housing and the orange wiper seal? That wiper holds that piston pretty firmly and is a large part of what the design relies on to help prevent piston rotation.

 

Hello everyone!
Back again to add to the testimonials with my personal experience. I installed the parts from page one, including Kasbiens kit, with a twist...
I cut my quill down to a half inch, a hundred years ago to accommodate for "the FIX" from URD. It was anything but "the FIX". (I am still a HUGE URD advocate)
So this is a unique review, but could be useful to those who may encounter a "snapped / broken" quill at some point.
The Tilton setup with adapter kit, I can only imagine works best when installed over an intact quill. (Or at least one that is a couple inches long to "engage" and prevent any "wobble" / imbalance of the setup while engaging / disengaging the pressure plate fingers.)
Kasbiens kit, the Titon setup, and the shim I added (using the anti-rotation bolt and tab on the HRB housing) to sturdy the entire setup have surpassed my expectations, albeit for 3000 miles.
After 5 years of issues and temporary fixes, I finally feel like Corrine, my X-runner is doing what she was made to do... Freakin' drive!
Thank you to everyone involved and I feel your pain "azzwethinkweiz" - my first Tilton HRB setup, shown in one of these photos (mated to the aluminum plate from "the FIX"), exhibits the same failures as you have noted. I wish you all the best!
Keep turning wrenches everyone - because you want to, not because you need to.

 

Really late reply but nothing unusual, clutch still feels and behaves the same but haven't had any issues really other than the change in feel.

 

Forgive my ignorance:

I understand the quill is aluminum and the bearing in steel, softer metal and such. Shouldn’t the inside race of the bearing not be spinning on the quill? Is it the forks being worn that causes it to slide crooked or something, and maybe wearing on the quill that way?

I’ve never seen, and have only ever heard of Tacoma's with the ever squeaking TOB.

Seems like people either always or never have this problem. As a guy with a 6psd, explain it like I’m 5 lol…

Thanks

 

I added a copy of this post to the install notes as that's a good idea. If I was supplementing the bearings for everyone in the kit I would do something similar first but on a workbench setup just to get everything warmed up.

Your determination is admirable! Well done dude! Keep us updated.

Neither this setup nor the factory setup will SPIN on the quill. The factory setup TRAVERSES axially along the quill (which is too soft of an alloy to support that). Perhaps some people don't notice or just chalk up the change in driving behavior to vehicle age.

 

quills are replaceable for $30.

in Toyotas modern infinite wisdom, they made it non replaceable on the RA60F.
It is a wear item.

like having a welded on non removable oil filter.

 

Has anyone here attempted or successfully installed a hydro slave from a 2010-2015 V6 Camaro? They share the Aisin AY6 our trucks use. Where the Tilton only relies on just a seal to keep the piston from spinning doesn't give me warm and fuzzies

 

i nominate you to be the first
Get to it

 

I've called a few junk yards trying to locate one with no luck. I might have to bite the bullet and get one from rock auto or something

 

Car-part.com is showing a couple dozen nationwide

https://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

 

Well you see I live in an igloo in northern Alberta Canada, the closest one in the states to me is Waterloo or if I stay in Canada it's in Ontario

 

I see. Didn't show up you were from the Great White Canuckistan.

All that said, if I went through all the trouble to replace a release bearing, I'd likely be inclined to buy new. Looks like around US $150 for the release bearing and slave from Rock Auto (don't think Tim Horton's has those kind of donuts so whatever the Canadian equivalent is).

 

So do you offer a kit for sale ?

 

Buddy you just made my day if you ever make your way up to the great white north we'll get the bhy's together with some 2, 4's

All jokes aside I agree with buying new but I wanted to see if I could try to make it work without spending a bunch on new, I suppose I could return it

 

I'm about to do another batch. Send me a message.

 

Hey, Folks.

Sorry! I don't want this to be a long post, but I am looking for some help and guidance.

Killer thread and development. Thanks for the CM HRB warnings! They have one for the 3rd Gen. @Shadowhunter warned me away.

I read the whole thing and was getting excited, as I am absolutely frustrated with TOB problems. Not many 3rd Gen issues noted here or otherwise. Just a handful.

I have never had clutch issues on cars / trucks. Bikes had a couple material problems, like the lack of heat treat on splines. Silly stuff like that. Never wear issues.


On the Taco, the first TOB was chirping quietly at 88k. I should have lived with it but was worried. After a swap and solvent tank clean up, noises could be heard. Then, the first replacement took a worse dump less than 10k later (96k). The new one started making a much louder noise. I feel that I barely made it home from a 3.5hr trip on a very hot day. Cleaned up some melted delrin from the quill. Now, the second replacement started making noise at about 105k on another hot day. I'm at 108k now, milking it along, and worried about taking long drives. FML!

After the first replacement, I started messing with the switch to not have to push the clutch to start. This is more familiar and preferable for me, but it didn't seem to help.

If you all would like to try it, it is an easy and reversible mod:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/live-clutch-mod-lcm.820941/

This has no affect on anything but basically making CSC permanent. Love it!


Since, I have came to the determination that my issue is not likely caused by clutch use, but more about that stupid thing is spinning all of the time. I did not tear down the first replacement as Toyota warrantied it.

Both times, I was annoyed by how heavy the spring in the slave was. I should have done it sooner, but once the noise started again, I tried pulling the slave spring. Another easy and reversible mod:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/no-slave-spring-mod-nssm.839250/

It did help prolong things, but a couple thousand miles later, I get noises part way through every shift.

Idle is silent most times. Rarely, I will hear some metal on metal sound. More of a very slight grind than a chirp.

It drives me crazy that the TOB failures were different each time.


I'm trying to figure out what to do. My main goal is to not do TOBs with every oil change.

This time, thinking it may be more due to a PP problem, I was considering a new clutch and an HRB. For the new clutch, I was considering a CM FX250 as it was noted to have more bite since the 3rd Gen clutch has no real feel. Just muscle memory after the ADM. And as I said above, I was excited for the Tilton HRB until it was noted that the TOB spins here also.


What is the expert opinion? What clutch would get me some long service?

Thank you!


If it helps, this was after the first replacement:




Slightly longer after the slave spring delete on the current TOB:




From the second replacement at 95k. In the last pic, you can see the melted delrin before I cleaned it up.