Long Travel BS Thread

Yeah I figured the cage would be holding everything together as I typed that

 

Yeah. Cab cage and frame are all one now. 14 cab to cage tie ins. I could cut my body mounts entirely at this point.

 

that does math out... I must have missed something.

yeah our terminology on preload vs ride height load terminology is how internet arguments work... I'll just go back to contributing to confusion lol

 

I actually did math wrong so I wrote 4.75" preload where I should have written 5.25" preload, but end result is the same, still safe over bind. Plus I stacked another 1/2" of spacer over the durobump for now while I figure out a final solution for the bumpstops which should be pretty conservative.

so hard to judge ride heights comparing Cory's truck on 37s with big boy fenders vs mine on little boy 34s with stock fenders.
I need to remember to take a side profile photo and measure frame to ground clearance to get a rough idea.

I am a little confused on how you are at the same near coil bind at full compression but sitting at a lower ride (relative to the shock travel) than me though. Not sure if your Kings are a 6.75" stroke as well but I have 4.25" of rod showing at ride (2.5" in the body) where I think you saying you have 3.375/3.375 even though you have presumably less weight over the front axle than me. I guess maybe I still have multiple inches of break-in/settling to go...

 

My kings are 7.5” stroke. As they came from JD. You are going to experience a LOT of settling as things start to wear in.

My spring height would be 9” with the shock fully compressed. So I do have a buffer zone. Which is ideal. You don’t want to be getting by with fractions of an inch.

 

finally getting out from under the truck, and onto the fun parts. very little laying on my back to weld left.

got all of the frame side link mounts in, and the actual links in place. PVC link cycling worked well, so it was a quick confimation that everything remained the same with the final mounts and links.

drive shaft is the limiting factor up and down. u-joints are the limit at drop, and the driveshaft hitting the underside of the cab is the compression limit. with a little room to spare on both ends, cleanly cycles 24.5''. bumped and strapped goal is close to 22'', still with a close to 50/50 split.

very excited to get to move onto the cage and back half. make this thing look like a truck again....

this is roughly what the strapped drop position will be.


this is about where it will be bumped. someone commented last time i posted about link length, stating they looked short. First, they really do look short in a photo like this! but its just an illusion since you can't see the frame mount. for ground clearance, i'm not running a trailing arm, as well as the frame side mounts are tucked up inside the frame rails. without a trailing arm mounted to the underside of the frame, they really do look short, so artistically drew up where they terminate behind the scenes. the lower links being mounted near to where the carrier bearing is, is the only way I'm keeping a relatively flat anti-squat curve, and minimizing driveshaft plunge. pinion angle change is minimal, but that's more a characteristic of the upper arms.

 

oof yea I think I’ve been off base trying to match the rear height. What I should do is let the front settle then look back at the rear to see what I can do to lower it. (Or maybe the rear will settle too)
But frame to ground is 18.5” currently. assuming a tire dia difference of 1.5” from Cory to match him I should be closer to 17”.
Those fenders really throw me off!

 

If you’re on a new pack in the rear, it will absolutely settle. Give her some miles and feel things out a bit. You may end up finding a heavier shorter spring will work better for you to help with roll as well.

 

Is this a kit your using? Never seen an axle truss like that before. Looks awesome though, nice work. 4-link setups on these trucks are so cool to see

 

You know those things roll on their own, right?

 

took me a minute but

 

Thanks! The link bracket on the top of the truss is a weld it yourself deal from TMR. The tube work for the truss is my own.

They were only rolling front/back. I needed them to go left/right

 

As someone who was recently moving around 43’s on steel beadlocks with 3/8” centers I can totally appreciate that

 

Yup. Brand new Alcan pack. Last pack was an aftermarket replacement “stock” 63” and it settled so much high school me with the lowered s10 would have been super jelly

 

How much deflection is normal in the steering rack bushings? How do you know when you need new ones?

trying to chase down a steering clunk that I can feel in the steering wheel when I get sharp bumps. Already replaced inner/outer TRE’s, intermediate shaft, and made sure the joints are secure. Crawled under my steering column tonight and it’s all tight up there.

https://youtube.com/shorts/-Kj6m7hqOl0?si=3RfxSstiU4ZOyhGs

 

take a video of the truck sitting while turning the wheel one direction than the other with it on, that will show if you have play in the rack bushings

 

Just lock to lock on pavement?
I can do that tomorrow.

What am I looking for? Presumably I’m try to record the rack for movement relative to the frame?

 

So your saying cage it or don't enjoy offroading?

 

+4 with stock rack and no slide rack. Loved the pump upgrade

 

Hell yeah