TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

you may not need a custom tune, but it does make a world of difference from the TRD tune! I don't think anyone here would talk you out of one

 

I'll be going with 640cc after swapping to the 2.0 pulley but guys that have done it like @Athlaos suggested that it wasn't exactly necessary since he's still on the TRD (455cc) with his setup and meth. I'm already at 97% injector duty on 2.7" pulley with no additional fueling at 400'.

Maybe there's something closer to you I bet. I'd use a service. Cheap insurance and they usually provide you a nifty chart to verify rather than guessing. Lots of shops that will complete the service like
RC Fuel Injection, Inc.
FIC also offers the service

 

i have heard that that you can’t use the hp tuners and handhelds on the earlier 07-09 GRs is this true ?

 

The 07/08 FJ Autos have unofficial file support in HPT.

 

Thanks .
I think this might be my problem. The TRD ecu just isn’t setup for the headers and it’s just making the ecu dump fuel under boost .
I’ll try and find a tuner in California

 

The TRD tune is extremely rich under load (it targets down to 9:1 AFR), the headers aren't causing it. They won't affect the actual fuel mixture (unless there's a leak before the primary O2 sensors).

 

So then that makes sense why my wideband is showing 10:1 afrs. Isn’t that way too rich and you run the risk of washing out the cylinders ?

I know my target afr on my supra is around 11.5-11.8 when it’s under boost

 

For the general 1GR w/ the Maggy I target mixtures in the 11.3-11.0 range. These engines do prefer to run a little richer than traditional engines, but I think the TRD Engineers factored in enough safety for those hammering the snot out of these things on regular fuel despite being advertised for 91 or greater. They leave a bit of power on the table due to the ultra-conservative tuning.


*RED/BLUE: Stock TRD Tune vs Custom Tune (both with very dirty/clogged K&N drop in filter)

GREEN - Tuned w/ out the dirty filter*

 

shot you a follow on IG . Looks like there is a tuner in San Diego that works using your product . I’ll probably go this route in the near future. Appreciate the help!

 

I'm running a tune from @JustDSM with a 2.8 pulley and URD long tubes and it is healthy.

 

I don't know if you have long tube or short tube headers, or if FJ is different than Tacoma. But from my familiarity with long tube headers (which I assume you have if you are running an O2 sim on the downstream) the upper O2 location is just measuring one cylinder, the lower spot in the collector is the one that would measure all the cylinders, but requires an extension to reach. I don't think it sounds like this is your issue though.

 

on mine there are two locations. but both are past the collector. I honestly think the ecu dumping fuel might be fouling out my 02 sensor

 

@blownFJ do you or a friend have access to a windows laptop to install HP Tuners onto and log data?

 

i would need to purchase a dongle to do this correct? i know my reader will give me some live data but it wont log like HP Tuners or any other aftermarket flashtuner. I think i want to purchase the hardware justdsm sells above and if i get the HP tuners I would be essentially paying twice.

 

Yeah, you'd need one of the HPTuners MPVI OBDII dongles (not necessarily the latest version) in order to connect a laptop to the OBD II port. It will log way more real-time information than a Scangauge/Ultragauge type device. Check out this thread, which is slightly out of date with references to the MPVI2 since HP Tuners has released newer hardware since, but overall it gives you an idea of what is available: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hptuners-the-tacoma-faq.705981/

 

We are HPTuners dealers. We use a variety of software packages. If HPTuners is what you want, we can supply it and cut you a break on credit costs.

 

i got my feet wet with that one.

 

i have those. no issues i know of. best idea is running the fuel filter that is top of the line.

 

PSA for anyone about to buy a URD stealth pulley.

DONT DO IT IF YOU EVER PLAN ON CHANGING IT OUT EVER AGAIN.

I just spent about 2 solid hours getting this thing off. Tension the puller, lay a heat gun on it and give it a sharp tap. Making it move a mm at a time. I have blisters on both hands.

This thing was a nightmare to install and even worse to remove.

Praying I didn't do any damage to the snout bearings smacking the pulley

On a plus note the shaft looks perfect and spent about 10 minutes with the snout cutter. Should take prolly 30 minutes tops to get it cut down far enough.

 

You know I feel your pain

Damage to the bearings is possible. If you don't feel anything when rotating the shaft you may be ok. The bigger possibility is you may have driven the shaft down the inner race, and the only way to reseat it is to remove the seal and press the shaft until it bottoms on the pulley side bearing. Magnusun did design enough tolerance in the rotor pack drive train to work with some minor differences in assembly, so you may be good there too.