Closed - Internal Stiffeners

Can almost see the finish line!

https://youtu.be/bgO0XA3LkYM?si=mvnDq3iMbEE8sspm&t=62

 

I'm not in range to bring you a beer, but the 4WP opener is hardly compatible with a standard long neck bottle and the bed mat. The cap pops and bends slightly, but the bottom hits the mat before the top releases.

 

Second is more likely to draw blood. I’m also one of them… when I start seeing blood on parts during an install… I know it has happened yet once again. I do carry spare bandaids… the fabric kind.

EDIT: Got some cold in the fridge if you drop on by… mostly used motor oil styles… maybe an amber-ish.

 

BTW, in keeping with your avatar… I have this as a coffee mug.

 

Oh yeah........I didn't even think about the cutout in the "D"............. not sure what that might look like? Even if that thought is a bust, still love the idea of an insert to protect soft loop tie-downs, etc!

 

Are you saying the black oxide 10.9 is better than normal black oxide?

My experience I think has only been normal hardware, so maybe I just haven’t used the good stuff. That’d be great if this hardware is better.

 

Black oxide is just a finish, whether applied chemically or via thermal means.

You can have lower grade black oxide hardware, and high grade stuff as this is specific to the bolt itself.

I opted for 10.9 (strong hardware).

 

They can both equally draw blood, and I posted those pics to get opinions but think about where it's installed.

I see a lot of sharp-edged clamps, mounting/tie down points, and other attachments on truck bedsides and on those factory rails.

In other words, there's probably something sharp already there but because we know it's there, it's a non-issue. The opener will face towards the cab, versus an item that sticks out towards the center of the bed which is way more prone to catching something and drawing blood.

Just my theory anyway.

If I'm wrong, it's why I ask you guys

 

The world is filled with random sharp things
quoting my ex-wife “or, you could not being a fucking pussy about it”

 

Can't be worried about you guys drawing blood during tank maintenance

 

I understand the coatings and hardware grades. But it sounded like the OP was saying the black oxide coating on higher grade stuff was higher quality than the coating on the lower grade stuff. Or was I just misinterpreting that?

 

@Kwikvette
I’ve had some other stuff sitting in my McMaster-Carr basket for a while, and just want to verify I have the hardware list correct.
These will need 14 count m10 1.5x30mm bolts but all of the nuts are welded on? I’m sure I can source zinc washers locally.
I swear I looked at the instructions before posting this, I just struggle to visualize how things go together until I am physically holding the pieces… Thanks in advance!

Also just a note on post #1: Under purpose it lists m8 for hardware, and then under hardware it’s m10. I know this is a work in progress, that you were initially looking at m8 and also that this won’t be an issue in the future when you are shipping SS hardware. Just wanted to point it out.

 

Would happily get these if I didn’t have the 4wp ones. Glad that this great design will be available to others after the originals were discontinued.

 

I'm the OP

No, I never made any specific mention of the hardware coating, other than what it's coated with.

When it arrives, I can get a better idea of how it was coated (maybe).

Just meant the bolt itself is of a higher grade than most people would even use.

 

Correct, I listed it all on the first page -

14 x M10 x 1.50 nuts get welded onto specific parts so a buyer only needs to concern themselves with bolts if they opt out

For those wanting hardware included, either 14 x M10 x 1.50 x 30mm hex head bolts will be provided, or 10 x M10 x 1.50 x 30mm hex head, and 4 x M10 x 1.50 x 30mm button head bolts will be provided

The directions themselves list M10 hardware.



The only mention of M8 at all was if you specifically went through Send Cut Send as I created a quote myself utilizing bends and adding hardware. It didn't provide an option for anything larger and the nuts I chose were the cheapest available at $2 something each. They have some for $8 - $12 each.

This way a person knows what they could spend if they decide not to go this route as I posted, I'm doing this from a garage on basic tools. Don't have a CNC laser table or industrial press brake

 

@musicisevil

Also as far as how they go together, posted on the first page but here again if you're wondering how exactly.

 

Not op, but me. The method/grade of the hardware matters. 10.9 black oxide won’t perform like unrated stock shelf stuff. Rattle can… nuff said. I’ll be running what he brung, unless I opt for flange/flair/lock before install. I am also considering doing a bevel/taper on the outer plate with tapered bolts… for more of a flush mount. My understanding was everything was going to be M10 10.9 with the only variant being those who want 4x button heads (hex drive) for the outer plate (plain, D, bottle opener).

EDIT: Corrected button head count due to whole Left AND Right thing…lol.

EDIT2: Still want F-Bomb Design (bottle opener?) outer plate!

 

Added two more, but with the opener facing the opposite way.

 

I'd work on an F bomb but just jumped on to do work for someone else.

If I'm not cutting, I'm making other files for another customer.

 

Thanks for clarifying, that's exactly what I was looking for.