Anything welding

Thanks for posting that. Very nice and informative.

 

Might not look like much but, took quite a bit to mock up actual physical dimensions

 

A little custom tool I built for me an a couple coworkers..



took part of a hotline clamp, the ring lets you use an 8 foot fiberglass stick to install and and remove the primary jumpers on overhead powerline. a 1/2" socket, along with an adaptor for the 1/4" impacts



Did a fusion weld with the TIG



Cleaned the weld up with the belt grinder



Finished tool..

This makes it a lot easier to twist the concentric neutral on underground cable





all twisted up nice an neat..

 

Preface: I haven't followed these tips exactly on my own circles, but like you, mine are usually 7mm (.28") or more and usually cut okay.

When someone posts about issues over there, Langmuir vet posters recommend 90-degree lead-in, 1/2 diameter for lead-in length, and 60% feed optimization rate for small holes. So, it's piercing in the center and moving straight to the edge of the circle. Speed is 60% of normal for metal being cut. Left compensation to cut on the inboard side of the circle if dimension is critical.

Sold my Jeep last week to a very friendly Deputy who patrols my area. Going to surprise him with a wall hanger. Just got it painted yesterday: gloss back; with silver hammer tone background.



I got the original image of the net and just redid the face of the Jeep. Those mounting holes are 7mm.

 

Looks good!

Yeah I don't follow any rules myself either; I find people often suggesting "RUN 50% SPEED FOR HOLES UNDER 1/2"

Where I normally run the same speed or at 90% for holes that are .35 to .40

The above test piece was just as a response to a request, and proving that the whole 50% speed recommendation isn't concrete but merely a suggestion.

The end result was that he had has lead ins all messed up, wrong kerf, etc lol

In other words, a linking constraint after I asked several times if he had any warnings and he never answered me.

 

Haven't posted here much but cut (and bent) these out today -











Safe to say my table and settings are still working well for me.

 

Damn, you're letting me off with admitting I owned a Jeep and not even a public shaming? Who is this guy? Bought it for a woman. She left but the Jeep was in my name. Ooops. Sat in the garage for 17 yrs and had 16,000 miles on it when sold.

On hole cutting, I will say yours look really clean. My Super Bee friend is wanting some brackets made out of some 3/8". He's putting a Hellcat drivetrain in an old Dodge Dart, so I may be doing some thicker than my usual 16-20 gauge stuff. I'm hoping Mine look that good.

 

I want to build a swing out tire carrier on my bumper. Is there a recommendation for latches, the bearing, and anything else I'm forgetting?

 

4X Innovations

TMR Custom

And a few more out there that sell kits

You just buy what you want that fits your style bumper as far as mounting goes

None of us can guess what you own on your truck

I will way, I like the idea of a latch that closes when you slam the swingout shut vs a manually operated one

 

massively hate the bearing/spindle style single point pivots. no matter what you do or build, a swing-out WILL sag, whether its due to time, or because you added something to it that weighs it down more. aside from tightening up the bearings, there is no real adjustment that is beneficial on that style pivot. instead, use two pivot point separated by a foot or more. use rod ends or threaded bushings that can be adjusted to raise and lower the latching end as needed.

 

I am doing some rust repair on a car so I am mig welding thin sheet metal(~20 ga). I typically run 0.035 wire but I decided to get a roll of 0.023 for doing this repair.

I feel like I am getting inconsistent wire feed. Later today I am going to check the spool tension and the wire tension. Could it also be the liner? Do you typically change out the liner for thinner wire?

I may try 0.030 wire

 

Liner too big

Did you swap the drive rollers too? I know on mine you flip them as each side is meant for different wire types (flux and solid) as well as sizes.

 

I did swap drive roller and the contact tip. Can a 15' liner just be cut down to a 10' whip?

Thanks again

 

I've always had to cut my own liner down yeah

I don't know that I ever had to cut 5' of it though...so yeah you can cut it down, but don't know about your particular setup

I've only had factory Millers, as well as any large Tweco and Bernard guns

 

I have the primeweld mig 180 and got it before they started offering the 15 footer as an option

 

Sounds like a challenge.

 

Forget swingout sag. That bearing will give you earth sag under the (now flat) tires

 

I'm all for someone making money, but maaaaaan $150?



This same guy keeps having CNC issues and keeps asking for help every other day

@BuiltRight Industries is way cheaper

 

That's like $60 from send cut send with 1.6mm 5052. Maybe 80 with the bends. Less with a larger order.

 

Yep.

I didn't post in the group of course, it'd be very disrespectful to do so in my opinion

But the point was that there's already people selling these (much better quality) for less

He just got into CNC recently hence his many questions every other day so he's trying to hit it hard and I can't blame him, but get your shit dialed in first