Title change...it lives...it lives!

Get your meter and do some testing starting with battery voltage, if that's good then check voltage drop from the battery terminals to main power and ground locations.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoF5dHISkKY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7u5KNNB5Zjc

 

I'm not sure honestly. I have not had any chance to do any trouble shooting. Earlier today I put the key in the ignition and put it in the on position. Pushed it and pop started the truck since it doesn't seem to like me trying to use the starter.

It started, and without touching any switches drove it right onto the trailer and chained/strapped it down. I will have to continue troubleshooting post move.

 

Sounds like a ground issue. Something is back-feeding the oil light.

 

Disconnect them on both the positive and negative connections. Just removing the fuses may not do what you want.

 

Yeah I will have to see what I can do once I have the chance.

Drove 800 miles today as I am moving. Stopping for the night in Dayton Ohio.

Tomorrow night I'll be in Maryland.

 

But shouldn't the oil light always be illuminated when the key is in the on position and the engine isn't cranking?

Once I remove the key from the ignition, the light goes out

 

Correct, but it should be 12 VDC on the positive side and 0 VDC on the ground side.

If there is a back feeding issue on the ground side where there is 12 VDC on the positive side and say 4 VDC back feeding into the ground then you will only have 8 VDC to do any work, which would give you a dim light and everything else would be under powered also.

I hope this makes sense to you.

 

I see what you are talking about now.

Yeah I will have to figure that one out.

 

I had the exact same initial symptoms happen on my first gen. Tundra.
Never had an issue, no slow crank or any problem before hand. Stop at my storage unit for twenty minutes and then nothing. Tried a jump, no go. Went home and got some tools/ dvom and battery checked out but no power past that. Pulled batt. terms, all good.
Noticed the ground cable was swollen about an inch before the end of the cable. Cut it open and yeah. totally full of battery acid corrosion.
I think the previous owner had a leaking battery and it wicked down the cable.
Anyway, I cut out about two inches to get to fresh copper, tossed on a temp. term. and boom. Everything back to normal.
Still baffles me how it didn't show any advanced symptoms.

 

Yeah the ground cable at the battery is good.

Right now I'm sitting on the side of the road (again) waiting for roadside assistance to show up with a trailer tire for the U-Haul trailer behind my expedition as they don't provide spare trailer tires with them when you rent them.

 

Definitely gonna look at this....I know I have fresh copper on the battery ground as I just redid that one a few weeks ago.

Gonna have to check the positive as well.

 

Not just at the terminal, check the chassis and engine grounding too. Last time I had this issue it was on a Civic and it was the chassis ground.

 

Yeah I plan to as soon as I get this moving truck unpacked and trailers and what not returned. I pulled into the hotel near my new place about 1am.

Hopefully its just a loose ground from when I repaired my truck. That would be ideal.

 

So I off loaded the truck from the trailer again today.

Push started it so I could drive it to the parking spot.

Once I got it where it could sit for a bit if needed. I turned the headlights on again and immediately the engine died again.

Interesting symptom.

Additionally I noticed that my horn has stopped working.

I'll start working on it like on Monday when I get a chance.

 

Well, I got a little bit of an opportunity to troubleshoot.

The following readings are with the key removed from the ignition:

Battery Terminal to battery terminal is 12.54 volts.
Positive battery terminal to all grounds by front passenger headlight, near the smog pump, and on the driver side firewall measured 12.54 volts

Voltage from positive battery terminal to the post inside the fuse box is 0.00 volts

Voltage from the post inside the fuse box to the negative battery terminal was 12.54 volts

Trying to get to the starter but because of where I live it's really hard to get under the truck right now.

 

Those readings look good so far.

 

Really would like to have the key on when doing voltage drop checks, we want the circuit "loaded"

 

Just throwing this out there.

In your first post. You said, "the dome light wont work".

If you turn it ON, not door, but on at the switch. Then test the dome fuse for power.
If the fuse has power, we know we are chasing a ground issue.
If it has no power, we know we are looking at a power issue.

As of now, I sticking to a ground issue. But that's guess. And should only be used as a "guess" to where to start looking.

 

I'll try that out. My only concern of course is that it's somewhat intermittent. Sometimes the some.light and dash comes on just fine. I try and crank, all lights go out....I have to wait what seems like 15-20 minutes before it seems to "reset" for lack of a better term to try a new step in troubleshooting.

Really slows things down.

 

Wallet loss happens on this site.


I'm not hopeful but just to throw an idea, your no crank/lights sounds like a Camaro I had long ago. Positive at the starter came loose and was corroded.