Weak Braking - Tried Everything

Maybe I'm just thinking about it too much, but it sure would be nice to have more confidence in the brakes.

 

I did notice they changed something in 2008 because the brake booster is a different part number for the base model.

I have a 2014 so maybe my brakes are more sensitive just because of that

 

It's worth a shot. Not sure how tough of a job it is to replace the booster, but surely can't be that bad.

 

Nah, the booster is probably one of the easier parts to replace. Never done one on a taco though.

Couple things I just thought of:

Try looking at the flexible lines, front and rear, while someone else pumps the brakes. See if you see any expansion in those lines with the brakes on. Lines get old and soft, expand under pressure, and prevent full hydraulic pressure from reaching the calipers/wheel cylinders. Given the age of the truck, its not a bad idea to change them out anyway.

Failing the above, it's worth checking the pushrod adjustment on the booster(assuming there is one in the OEM booster) before calling it bad. Make sure it's within tolerance and the jam nut hasn't backed off. you can check with this tool:

Brake Adjustment Tool, Brake Booster Adjustment Tool, Brake Booster Push Rod Adjustment Tool for Adjustable Braking Distance of Brake Pedal, Suit for Most Brake Boosters with Adjustable Pins, Black

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Adjust...2017-B0BZ4RF854-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1

 

I’m assuming you don’t have a vacuum assisted breaks. It has the newer break master in there.
My FJ is hyper sensitive, you even think of breaking the ABS kicks in!

 

10-4 on the booster rod adjustment, I'll definitely check before replacing. As for the hoses, I had stainless installed in one of my repair attempts, so those shouldn't be the culprit.

 

No mine is the old style master cylinder.

 

Ok, this is a stretch but did you put the front calipers on the correct side. Is your bleeder ABOVE the brake line coming into the caliper?

 

Yah caliper is on the correct side, and bleeder is at the top of the caliper above the line. But this was all an issue before the caliper was replaced anyway.

 

Another question just to cover all bases: Your pads in the front calipers...you have metal shims on the pads right? (So the piston is not pressing directly into the friction material block)

 

Funny you ask. I read in a couple places that using OEM pads helped braking, so I switched over to those this weekend. They did not come with shims, so I installed without them. I can't notice any difference. The pads I had on before did have shims and the brakes felt the same.

 

Thats not what shims are for.. The friction material is always backed by a much stronger metal to spread the force of the pistons.

Installing without shims shouldn't cause this issue

 

That's what I figured as well..I thought the shims were for noise control or something like that.

 

New to you truck? Reason I ask my 2011 has a less than normal pedal feel like it's weak from day one but it does fine stopping the truck even with the trailer as needed. Second set of brakes over the years no difference.

 

Thanks everyone for the input and advice.

One other thing. The braking does seem to be better if I pump the brake pedal once...what would this indicate? Seems like it would be a master cylinder thing but I've already replaced that.

 

Oh you have to “double pump?”.
Probably air in the system.

 

I don't have to, but it seems to firm the pedal up a little and give a better response. I've bled the thing many times and had a shop do it, I'm not sure how there could be any air left.

 

What method are you using to bleed the system?

 

Motive power bleeder

 

I had a 1997 4Runner that used to stop on a dime. It kept getting worse. After replacing master cylinder, checking all calipers, bleeding all 4 corners, replacing all pads and shoes, etc, the power booster was replaced and life was good. Yes, that was the most expensive part but that was the problem.