2025 San G Family Reunion 09/05/25 - 09/07/25

I'll hit you up here soon. Truck is doing well. Still have plenty of work to do on it. I didn't realize it was time for front brakes? Now that I think about it, it has been quite a few years since I last did my front brakes? I plan on checking the drums this coming weekend.

LOL, are you willing to help me paint another bumper? I plan on getting this one soon... It's a direct bolt on, which is what I like and what I have been wanting and waiting for.


I've always wanted to match my front with the rear.

But yeah, thinking about getting this very soon. Just no exact date on getting it other than I would like to get it soon.

So anyways, my main focus was getting the CV axles and the LBJs replaced/installed. I REALLY do need to focus on getting the front brakes done too though before San G. It is not an issue, just saying I am doing that as my next project to take care of.

@kyle11863 when I drove back to SD from Chino the front felt VERY SOLID!!! Before the work I just did, I could tell there was a little bit of "slop" with the "steering", but now it felt very "solid".

To anyone reading, that front bumper has a winch location. I may or may not put a winch on, but if I do, what winch manuf do any of you recommend? Badland, WARN, Smitty, ??? Plus, rope or cable? I would like rope because it is lighter, but pros/cons I don't know? I have honestly not done enough research on winches yet.

 

I picked up a Superwinch not too long ago. Haven't gotten a chance to install it but I've been around a lot of people that have them and they seem really good. Haven't seen any issues with one so far, the build quality on it seems pretty good. I also like that it comes with a drum light, wired and wireless remote, and a removable solenoid.

For you I'd go synthetic all day long. It is way lighter, safer, and really doesn't have too many drawbacks. Just keep it away from sharp edges and maybe get a winch cover to keep the rope out of the sun as UV rays do deteriorate the rope over time

 

@kyle11863 @Nicklovin @TXpro4X4

I AM NOT able to go to San G!!!

Some radiator "heater hose" completely disconnected near the firewall area. I found the one end, can't find the other at the moment?

Anyways, at least it happened only about 8mi from my apt complex.

My only worry is that I hope the engine didn't overheat enough to cause a head gasket issue???

Man, shit just never ends?

I will still try to get it all resolved before then, but I have that "business trip" in Sept too, that's a whole week and two weekends lost right there.

Annnnnyways, keep you all updated.

 

Yeah!!! I will be very honest though, at least it was coolant and not a low oil pressure issue like before.

 

If you caught it fast don't worry about it. Get a new hose and some coolant and send it!

 

I was able to find the one disconnected end easy enough. The other end I cannot find?

The end I cannot find would be on the passenger side between the back of the engine and firewall. It would be very near where the EGR exhaust bypass tube where it connects to the exhaust manifold. I know the disconnected end is somewhere near that area, I just can't see it?

I MIGHT have to remove the valve cover just to see it?

I won"t know until I do that is my best guess.

Catching it in time, it was pegged out at HIGH by the time I realized it as the engine basically cut out on its own. It happened VERY FAST I can tell you that!!!

Needless to say I was VERY PISSED!!! Not gonna lie about that!!!

BUT, coolant loss and a blown head gasket, although not good because there could be other possible engine damage, I am just hoping that there was no further damage other than a possible blown head gasket?

When I figure out where the other disconnected end is, reconnect the two, then I will do a cylinder compression check and go from there.

Btw, it is connected to a metal T-tube that has a wire connected to it? I'll take a picture of it.

Annnnyways... I will let you know what I find.

 

No like bro, it's ok man! Will get some time in somewhere.
At least your working and able to do things you need to

 

I have a bore scope I bought a while back. It's actually a pretty decent bore scope, not that bad.


When I get home from work today, I'm going to use the bore scope to see if I can find the other disconnected end. It SHOULD work as I expect it. At least I will be able to see where the other end is where it disconnected. Then I will have a better plan from there instead of just ripping the whole top end off.

Anyways...

 

Good luck man!!!

 

Found the disconnected end with the bore scope. I figured the bore scope would help me be able to see what at least is going on.

The bad news, it looks like the fitting itself somehow "broke"? You can tell it is missing some piece of some kind?

I will have to tow it to the shop, which is better because they have better equipment and tools than what I have. They will likely have to pull the head anyways in order to fix it?

I won't know until I talk to them?

Here are the pictures from behind the engine. It is pretty well hidden too.




Below is the metal t-type tube I was talking about earlier. Where the break is, it apparently comes out from behind the engine head lower-right corner and goes into the heater core.


It actually looks like the metal tube was inside that housing??? I really don't know and it is hard to tell because of where it is located.

In either case, to me it looks like they would have to pull the engine head to even get to it???

I will not make it to San G as I simply don't have the money at the moment and HOPEFULLY the head is NOT CRACKED??? If not cracked, which would be the better hope, very likely the head is at least "warped"? I mean, it was pegged at HOT and this shit happened QUICK!!! It went from "smoke/steam" from under the hood to engine shut off on its own quicker than I could even blink!!!

But yeah, this sucks super bad!!!

 

Have you checked the oil yet or tried to put a wrench on the crank and see if you can turn it yet? Not trying to jump to the worst case scenario, but engine shutting off like that makes me start worrying about the engine seizing and stuff like that. Those tests will tell you more of about what's to come so you aren't guessing.

I know you are worried about dealing with the coolant tube, but have you considered doing the head gasket yourself if it comes to that? Having a shop do a HG is usually pretty expensive and it honestly isn't that hard. I can't tell if that tube was attached to the head or the block but I imagine it shouldn't be that hard to fix once you pull the head. Also have you asked any of the other 1st gen guys that have 2RZ engines like @MadTaco461 how all of that works? I'm sure at least one of them can just tell you instead of having to play the guessing game that you're doing now

 

The coolant sensor might have saved the motor. No oil leaks from there. The parts aren't expensive. You don't need to pull the head. Just some bloody knuckles.
https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/cover-cylinder-head-rr-1118175021

 

the RZ's have a coolant temp sensor that shuts off the engine? That's handy

One thing that can probably be done to maybe make access easier is unbolt the transmission and jack the transmission up until it hits the body. That'll push the engine away from the firewall and give more access to that area. Someone would just need to watch the engine bay while doing this to make sure the cooling fan doesn't mess up the radiator. Thoughts on that idea Mike? You know way more about those than I do

 

I hate that

 

I have yet to blow a hose off at temp, but there is a sensor on the head. I think the sensor on this part is just for the gauge in the truck. No need to do all that work. You can fish your hands in blindly.

 

That's what she said

 

its not that much work, but then again I'm always taking my crossmember off the transmission

 

Dont you mean bailing wire and bubble gum...