Mechanical Timing Issues 5VZ-FE

That’s crazy.
Unk how/what occurred

but it appears the R side of woodruff key slot is a 90degree angle and the L side is not
Has the WK been banging against the L side of the slot? Actually making slot some 3-4 mils larger?

congratulations….you have invented a adjustable timing CS sprocket!

 

OP,
I cracked the frozen crankshaft timing pulley on my '97 3.4L while removing it. Even with shipping costs from Dubai, Partsouq had the least expensive OEM replacement ($61.36 shipped): PULLEY, CRANKSHAFT TIMING 1352162031 | Toyota Parts | PartSouq. And it arrived in 4 business days.

 

Thank you for this info. Does a new woodruff key come with the pulley?

 

No, you'll need to order the key separately.

That absolutely occured because the crank bolt was not torqued correctly. The key simply aligns things...the bolt torque clamps it all down and hold it in position.

I would order a timing belt crank pulley, a new belt guide (that sheet metal thing with all the holes in it that goes on after the T-belt pulley but before the balancer), a new balancer, as well as a new bolt for the balancer....and a timing belt kit (Aisin).

 

No, you must order a new key separately for less than $1. And also buy a new, improved 2-piece crankshaft bolt. The early V6 Tacos like your '96 and my '97 were originally fitted with a one-piece crankshaft bolt which was basically a very large, heavy flanged bolt. The newer improved crank bolt is a 2-piece bolt with captured washer, which should better resist loosening. I cheat and use blue Loctite on the crankshaft bolt, the LBJ bolts, and any other bolt I need to remain securely torqued in place. Both these parts cost less than $6 plus shipping from Partsouq, but it looks like the crank bolt is out of stock. McGeorge/Ourisman should have them and Aircabinman on ebay also carries them to go with his timing belt kits. Verify these P/Ns are correct for your VIN. HTH

 

Is there a picture of that original bolt that was used?

Unless the dealershop that did the 1st timing belt maintenance on my '97 rig in 2oo7 replaced that bolt (too long ago don't recall) then this is the original crank bolt from that factory
Replaced with the same looking but new bolt a few years ago after that crank pulley imploded on a hard stop in the heavy rain one day

 

That is an original OEM large-flanged crankshaft bolt in your pic. Below was the 2-pc crankshaft bolt with captured washer that came from aircabinman with his OEM timing belt/water pump kit. None of the original OEM crank bolts used on my Taco ever loosed up on me. In fact, the last one I removed took just a massive amount of torque to break loose using a breaker bar with a length of pipe used as a cheater for leverage. The mechanic that changed that timing belt and torqued that crankshaft bolt down may have used thread locker on it which is fine by me. I was tempted to put the big Dewalt impact gun on it but was very apprehensive about putting that much vibration and torque on the crankshaft. Quite a few years back, I broke the snout off of a cast crankshaft which I mistakenly thought was forged using an impact gun. Lesson learned.

 

I just received all the parts to get this issue fixed. Unfortunately, instead of ordering the updated two piece crankshaft bolt... I ordered a new "old" version (90105-16031) by mistake. As Leid suggested, I'll apply some blue Loctite to this new bolt and torque to spec. I need to get this thing running. For reference, I think the correct part number for the updated crankshaft bolt is 90119-16006.

 

If the FSM doesn't state to apply loctite...put it in dry and torque the to published spec.

Thread the bolt into the crank before you put the balancer on and make sure you can run it in all the way with your finger...if you can, take it out and assemble things as stated in the manual.

Loctite is a lubricant when it's wet, just grease or anti-sieze. Torque values are roundabout methods in which to arrive at a given clamp load. The clamp load, or clamp force, with clean dry threads will be one figure. With any sort of lube, a given torque value will result in more bolt stretch and clamp force, with dirty/rust threads that same torque value will result in less clamp force. The objective is the hit the desired clamp force, which will be achieved by following the conditions specified in the FSM for the prep and using the specified torque spec.

 

what exactly is that a picture of?
i have not seen that yet on the 5VZ-FE

 

Pretty sure that is a harmonic balancer where the outer ring has separated.

 

It is off a 2.7. The 3.4 has several pulleys incorporated on the outer ring.

It's just an example of what can happen using a chain or strap wrench to hold the pulley.

While I'm here.
The 3.4 balancer has an additional central "hub" that can be torn/sheared off using a holding tool that does not bolt securely through the hub and into the rear of the pulley.

Said type of holding tool and what can happen.

 

did yours implode on you somehow?
mine did and i had absolutely NO CLUE at the time what was going on
had to shell out for a brand new OEM one with an MSRP of now over 700$
once i found out what had happened

 

by chance did you check that torque Before you removed the bolt to verify exactly how loose it had become

 

Never had a problem on my truck.

 

most have not!, ..not many postings found about it doing a search
must be a Very Uncommon issue what happened to mine before ever hitting 190k
and i still am shaking my head about it

 

It was barely on there.... I removed with hand powered ratchet/socket (without bracing the crank shaft from spinning). My guess... it came off with about 10ft-lbs of torque.

 

I know your pain. In 1971 as a senior in high school, I completely destroyed my DD/weekend race car most probably due to the manual transmission mount bolt becoming loose. The OEM tranny mount bolt was torqued to spec. but loosened up after a few preliminary launches off the line at 4K, 5K then 6K RPM. When I dumped the clutch at 7K, the entire drivetrain rattled itself to death. Everything from the engine to the rear end exploded. A buddy helped me tow the car to the scrap yard after I scavenged the few usable parts. That event well motivated me to ensure that important fasteners do not get loose. I have been using mechanical locking devices, conventional thread locking compounds such as Loctite, safety wire on important aircraft fasteners, and Rocksett ceramic based thread locker on parts that get extremely hot such as suppressor/silencer mounts for approx. 57 years now. I have even welded fasteners on 4X4 winches as a theft deterrent. 2 of the most important areas on the 1st Gen Taco that require that the bolts remain torqued are the crankshaft bolt and the LBJ bolts. I have been using blue Loctite on both those applications, as well as several other Taco applications such as flywheel & clutch plate bolts, for over 25 years now with zero failures and I will continue to use it until I am done. There is no doubt in my mind that my '97 V6 Taco 4X4 with the blue Loctite on the crankshaft bolt, LBJ bolts, and other important bolts will outlast me. But use whatever works for YOU. Bottom line: It's your Taco.

 

not a bolt but a mere nut also important is that cv axle nut on the 4x4
there are some sloppshops known to NOT even securely cotter key that nut in place

 

^^^^those mechanics usually only have a tool box of Standard sized tools!
lol