6in lift to stock

Hi there could someone help create a parts list of what I need to go back to stock off a 6 in RC kit. If anyone has done this please message me on how you went about it.

 

How you should go about it. Not trying to be rude or mean...

Step 1: Sell this truck.

 

Doesn’t the rc 6” lift cut the frame??
Do you have the cutout part to get welded back in?

 

Or buy a welder and front cross member.
And hope you get it back in "straight".

If a lift requires a sawzall and angle grinder, just stay away.
Unless it is a dedicated trial rig.

 

Yes I’ve got the cut frame part figured out I mainly am having trouble finding which front diff mounts, tie rod ends, L&R BJ to spindle mounting brackets & bolts that I need. Also sway bar links

 

Does Toyota sell a front cross member? Don't think so. It's a big piece to remove. I would never trust myself or anyone else to weld in a cross member on a 2nd or 3rd gen Tacoma. The frames on these trucks are high strength steel. After an accident Toyota only recommends a "cold repair" if frame straightening is required. In other words welding on a huge piece of the frame is absolutely not recommended for safety reasons let alone alignment issues.

 

I'd start with the installation instruction for the RC lift.
Then buy the parts they tell you to cut or take off.

 

Probably not. You're going to have to find a wrecked truck.

And I agree, welding a frame isn't ideal.
But......I've seen A LOT of sketchy frame repairs and modifications.
What's one more......

Mostly I'm just here to feel sorry for OP, and hope others see this and NEVER buy drop bracket lift. (For a daily driver) ....... (or ever. period)

 

You need to remove the after market crossmember and buy the OEM front cross member and weld it back on.

 

This thread might help you a bit:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ditching-6-lift-what-parts-am-i-missing.707205/#post-25105968

It's for a 2nd gen, but as far as suspension & frame geometry I believe the 2nd & 3rd gens are very close.

Certainly it's a good starting point.

Looks like that dude just replaced the stock crossmember with maybe a 2" x 4" piece of rectagular steel tube. Probably 1/4" thick I'd guess. Might work. Looks legit-ish... (?)