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LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Pittsy, Sep 26, 2022.

  1. Jul 29, 2024 at 5:12 PM
    #1541
    iwashmycar

    iwashmycar a lot

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    What’s the temp rating on the stat? Sounds right in the sweet spot to me.

    The thermostat should be dictating your temp. If it’s a 180 or round there then you’d expect to see at least that.

    fans are only there to cool what the stat lets through. Cranking fans to cool a trickle of coolant because the stat is just holding pressure is a huge waste.
     
  2. Jul 29, 2024 at 5:35 PM
    #1542
    TACOTU3

    TACOTU3 Well-Known Member

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    Do not take mechanical advice from me, but considering ambient temp right now that doesn’t feel bad.
     
  3. Jul 29, 2024 at 5:58 PM
    #1543
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    It’s a 170* stat if I’m remembering. I’m too lazy to scroll up.
     
  4. Jul 29, 2024 at 5:59 PM
    #1544
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    I think maybe I’m a little paranoid that it’s too warm because of what it used to be when it was winter time here with no Ac.
     
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  5. Jul 29, 2024 at 6:56 PM
    #1545
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

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    Optimal engine and trans temps are between 170-220 Fahrenheit. Everything is operating as it should. Above 220 is when problems start happening.
     
  6. Jul 29, 2024 at 7:19 PM
    #1546
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    I’m used to my Lexus being at 180* no more no less all the time. I get nervous above 200. :rofl:

    I’m actually struggling to get my transmission above 170*. The fans kick on at 170 and immediately drop it below.
     
  7. Jul 29, 2024 at 7:29 PM
    #1547
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Idk they used to make good stuff.

    You need to first determine your amperage requirements for the components your wanting to run then size wiring, fuse panels, fuses, and relays accordingly.

    I use a current clamp on stuff that I add to see what kind of current it draws.

    IMO 30 amps is too much to be trying to run through a ATM fuse, sure they make them but you need really solid connections for it to not melt. Even with ATC fuses 30 amps is alot without a solid connection.

    Also you said it's 14 GA wire, that's pretty much only good for up to 20 amps at no more than about 10 feet if it's solid copper. If it's copper clad aluminum probably around 15 amps max. Also the longer your wires are the bigger they need to be.

    Because of the cost of copper anymore just about every kind of aftermarket accessory or wiring solution supplies the bare minimum wire size and often use copper clad aluminum wire.

    Here's some handy charts for figuring out wire size requirements for various amperages and lengths.
    https://afe.solutions/2019/09/20/dc-wire-size-charts/
     
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  8. Jul 29, 2024 at 7:33 PM
    #1548
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    The wire runs are only about 4 feet. The spec I found online says 65watts, which means 5 amps and some change, which seems low to me. And the wire I’m using is truly copper wire, no CCA. I’ll throw 20 amp fuses in there instead. Maybe that’ll help my problem.
     
  9. Jul 29, 2024 at 7:46 PM
    #1549
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    What diameter fans are those? 5 amps seems low for a radiator fan.

    If they are indeed only drawing 5 amps you have some serious poor connections for it to be melting like that.

    I'd throw an amp clamp around the wire and see what the actual current is.
     
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  10. Jul 29, 2024 at 7:50 PM
    #1550
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Autocool Guy or Lingenfelter PWM fan controller.
     
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  11. Jul 29, 2024 at 8:38 PM
    #1551
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

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    I've always used the blue sea guide. I have it printed out and taped on the side of my electrical cart

    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Jul 29, 2024 at 8:48 PM
    #1552
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    16” spal fans. Curved blades. That’s a really good idea about the current clamp. Will try that.
     
  13. Jul 29, 2024 at 8:53 PM
    #1553
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Can't see a 16 in fan drawing only 5 amps, I got a 7 in fan on my Kubota RTV and it draws at least 5 amps.
     
  14. Jul 29, 2024 at 8:54 PM
    #1554
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    I agree with you. I bet the amp meter proves otherwise.
     
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  15. Jul 29, 2024 at 10:12 PM
    #1555
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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  16. Jul 29, 2024 at 10:15 PM
    #1556
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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  17. Jul 29, 2024 at 10:32 PM
    #1557
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    IMG_3457.png IMG_3456.png

    Finally found some data that looks accurate. 25 amp draw.
     
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  18. Jul 29, 2024 at 10:37 PM
    #1558
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    @Dm93

    What would you suggest be done here? Switch over to the MSD solid state relay? The fan wires are still 14 gauge, can’t change that.
     
  19. Jul 29, 2024 at 10:47 PM
    #1559
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Now that's more reasonable, no wonder your cooking that fuse connection.

    So you probably ideally should have at least 12-10 ga wire and a 40 amp fuse as you typically don't want the normal working current of a circuit to be more than about 75% the current rating of the fuse protecting it but you also want a heavy enough wire so that the fuse will blow instead of the wire melting in the event of a short or over-current condition.
     
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  20. Jul 29, 2024 at 10:50 PM
    #1560
    Pittsy

    Pittsy [OP] Ex car guy, currently in rehab

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    I can’t do anything about the wiring coming out of the fan itself, but will run 12 gauge everywhere I can.

    do you think the MSD will be fine? It’s rated at 35a continuous through each channel.
     
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