1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

That's the beauty of a adapter harness.

I got the sensor mounted up. Made a quick plate from some scrap and sneezed some mig up in there.

To help anyone in the future..

The factory return line line is 6mm. I used 6.3mm with a hose clamp and it's fine.

I also used (2) -6 to 1/4 barb adapters. I should have got the 3/8 Gm to 1/4 barb adapters, oh well.

The mounting bolts are 4mm diameter. I used ones 12mm long with nyloc nuts.

 

Link to those adapters? Those are snazzy

 

Considering it for fun...obviously have some actual measurements to take still. Would be interesting to feel how effective a manifold would be with shorter runners and larger plenum volume
Anyone have any design recommendations though?

 

The adapters I used were brass units from Parker. So no link. Nothing too crazy.

I thought I saw 3/8gm to 1/4 adapters but I was wrong.https://www.racetronix.biz/p/adapter-qdf-3-8-5-16-barb-black/qda-38fhb56cl

About your intake, I think it's worth a try but idk if the 5vz revs high enough to really take advantage. It would definitely loose torque with a short runner intake. Cams would need to be upgraded to shift the power band to the right.

 

Finally got the flex sensor wired in. Pretty cool the ecu noticed the new change before I assigned the wire. Content is metered and updates quickly, even with sensor in return line. Up to E32 currently. Runs fine, ecu automaticly adjusts with scalar table. Will see how cold (hot Az) starts are soon.

 

Progress is being made

I'm pretty happy with my soldering. It's definitely better than my welds

 

Haltech is in and the Innovate guage is out

 

Did you figure out the Tps/Dbw?

 

Nope, but I m pretty sure that'll be left to the oem ECU for now.

I did got the electronic boost control solenoid and WB1 wired up and put the dash back together.

 

I think you are right on that. Forgot it was piggy back for now.

What's next?

 

Setting it up correctly in NSP so it'll start.

Injectors should be here soon.

I'm about 500 miles from the next oil change so I'd like to get those miles in and have fresh oil for the trip I'm taking in a couple weeks. If I wasn't trying to establish a base line for the samples with Blackstone I'd just change it early

 

Let's do another web meeting when you're hooked to your ecu and looking to do a first start, we can confirm things are set right and troubleshoot anything that comes up together.

 

Finally picked up my shower door and vanity top so the truck is free to be brutalized once more Knock sensors here I come!

Also had an interesting idea for the twin turbo setup that I'm not sure I've seen done before. Probably better to try it first and explain later if it works...

 

You're doing staging and sequential huh?

I bought a set of the knock studs and some bosch knockers to put in my new engine that's on the stand. Won't hook em up right away but have em around for down the line if I switch to and S series ECU

 

Yes please. Whenever you are ready let me know, I won't be going anywhere until then that's for sure

 

Yah I suppose staging would be the right word, but I'm gonna attempt to do it via the downstream of the compressor side with a solenoid on a boost-activated butterfly valve, triggered via a load table so I can run out the compressor map of a single turbo and bleed it over into the other one as needed (is that normal? idk). I had a picturesque mockup of such a thing a while ago but I kind of abandoned the idea after I couldn't find a suitable check valve, until I realized this method could work. It was actually intended for my Saab, not the Taco. And it would work using almost no additional equipment since I already have the valve and a spare solenoid - I just need some adapters to fit the valve before the merge pipe, and I need to greatly expand the size of the exhaust side balance tube by grinding it down under the wastegate and rewelding the bottom. (oops guess I explained it after all)

Attached is from the Saab project which was going to be fully bi-turbo until I couldn't find the equipment needed, so it assumes a secondary larger turbo that fully takes over. The principle would be the same with two parallel turbos where that horizontal line is, just imagine a ghostly overlay of the leftmost map resized right with the lbs/min x2:

 

Not normal but been done on production vehicles. Buddy's RX-7 FD came with all the pre-spool, staging, and crossover solenoids and valves. We deleted it all though and setup spool assist, it spools like 200rpm higher now and has a ton less components and staging logic to manage.

 

You got it to spool faster just by keeping the wastegate closed longer? What if you would have done both?

 

I'm saying by using spool assist instead of the staged/sequential setup it spools 200rpm later. But honestly it's totally worth the very minor rpm difference to not have all that BS onboard anymore. BTW the RX uses two identical size turbos like you're doing. I have no idea what doing both would have done, might have spooled a little faster maybe but the RX is very much in the same boat as you with two turbos that are a bit too small for the application, so no matter what it really doesn't have trouble lighting it up. The pre control valve takes a lot of load too since it's basically an exhaust flow valve at the point of highest pressure, a regular exhaust valve for like muffler bypass won't hold up

 

Well it is a much larger circumference than an exhaust valve though which would take a lot of the load off.. But I'm kind of proposing a simplification by not using pre (exhaust) and only doing post (basically a turbo throttle plate). Sure, you lose a bit through the exhaust wheel vanes but in theory the cold side turbine cannot flow with the post valve closed, which would stagnate the exhaust side flow, forcing most of the exhaust gas through the other turbo - path of least resistance and still an improvement vs not having the system in place...in theory

Results would be most noticeable at partial throttle/low-med load