Clutch Masters hydro bearing failure!

Well after 2.5 years and 60k miles I have the puddle of death. Thought I was one of the lucky ones.

 

My condolences.

Sucky way to ring in the New Year but hoping for all the best for you.

 

Is what it is. Sucks I had the trans out to replace the clutch back in September. I bought the seal, figured if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and didn’t replace it. With the way these fail I’m assuming it’s spun anyways and hogged out.

 

what's next? URD? Tilton?
I threw away my stock parts during CM install, such as fork etc.
there's probably a pivot ball for it too

though they do say to replace forks any time you do a clutch job, to prevent cracking from fatigue/stress
Normally cheap.
It's unfortunate how proud Toyota is of their fork pn

 

I’m leaning towards going back to stock.

 

Im on my second kit from Clutch masters and I was also one of the unluckys that had the quill snap off of the bell housing bc of the crappy stock design.
when the time comes that the second kit fails ( which i have no doubt that it will), I'll go back to the stock set up (maybe keep the urd clutch and fly wheel), and just deal with the damn chirping. If i Knew then what I know now, i would have never gotten a manual.

 

My only advice is to make sure you get the correct release bearing to match your pressure plate. That and the heavier slave spring really shouldn’t chirp.

Jeff

 

Well… I’m a glutton for punishment. I cleaned it up, replaced the seals and sprayed some lube in the bearing. I’m getting pretty good at pulling the trans and putting it back in. It took 4.5 hours and about 20 minutes of that was trying to find one of the front driveline nuts that fell into my crossmember. The first round out lasted a URD stage 2 clutch. Back in September I put a CM FX400 in. If it lasts as long as a clutch before it needs seals I’m ok with it. If I’m back posting in this thread in a few weeks it’s because I threw it out in the blackberries with my sway bar.

 

Fuck you!

 

Well, you got a few months instead of a few weeks....

 

I’ve just been pointed in the direction of this thread. Transmission shop thinks my synchros are going bad(07 4.0 225k mi). They put a URD clutch and clutch masters TOB in for me about 2.5yr ago. Amy reason the TOB would be the issue and not actually my synchros?
Issue is the truck getting stuck in 1st gear and or not letting me pop into 2nd gear without sliding into 3rd them back to 2nd.

 

And it's gone. I'm confused as to how it wasn't supposed to spin when it the bearing was contacting the pressure plate fingers...

Right around 15-20k miles on it. Super pumped to have to pull my tranny and have a non-working truck now.

 

By pumped do you mean vein popping eye twitching pissed the fuck off? If so I was super pumped too when mine did it too.

 

Did a bleed again
Like 1-2yr interval
Wish I knew why it always comes out the CM HydroTOB looking like this.



Brakes on the other hand came out clear yellow as it should on a maintained interval

 

Clutch dust getting past the seals.

 

honestly it's been doing this for a while
and quite frankly with that bottle, I'm tempted to do it again. And bleed another bottle.

I could always open the clutch and rinse it out with water. And/or brakleen.

Maybe it's a normal part of any hydroTOB? Maybe a Tilton would do this too without issue?

Because besides the alarming color, it...still works...
I was fearing it could be DOT4 dissolving the seal. Which hopefully it's resistant too.
But I'd imagine by now if it was dissolving the seal, that the seal would have been long gone by now
versus today, despite the color, the truck still drives

I try not to beat the shit out of it so hopefully there's not a ton of dust.
I will admit though, truck as OTT tune set to I think Mild. And I'm thinking of switching to Lite. It feels a bit hard to control the gas and I've heard the creator of OTT went with Lite himself for this very reason. Only way to find out is to try I guess.
Because at $400 for the TOB, and whatever the cost was for URD clutch and flywheel
I really don't want to mess it up. Especially off roading with a shitty 2.57:1 ratio low.

 

My thoughts on the color is caused by aluminum dust from it grinding on its self and also the anodizing coating.
One could see if Blackstone laboratories can analyze brake fluid like oil, to see what is cause is.
Side note it's been a minute since I visited this thread.

 

oh yeah, that's another option.
I mean aluminum is silver. Mine was anodized red. I'm not really seeing that color in the fluid.

I would think if the metal part of it was eating itself it'd be gone by now.

Honestly I did pull the trans out a second time to put a different clutch.
Already had the HydroTOB so I simply inspected it and didn't see anything crazy. Installed the new clutch, shoved the trans back in, and drove off

maybe time to look at the Tilton and see if that changes anything. Folks seem to enjoy it more. Already have the TW adapter kit, just not the actual Tilton hydroTOB parts themselves.

 

I have the tilton setup sitting on the shelf waiting to the next time the trans comes out.