Long Travel BS Thread

Soo weight wise I want to be heavier in the rear or near the same as the front?

 

Depends what you want. A well balanced vehicle will always have better handling characteristics. At your split, I certainly wouldn’t be pursuing more to the rear. Personally. But I like a vehicle I can throw around on and off road.

 

oh I can throw it around, windy washes and such the truck is a dream, long medium whoops it does fairly good, but over deep whoops and jumps it noses over.

 

A lot of it is going to be valving related. With the area you live. I would 1,000% be paying a pro to tune your shocks for you. It will get the majority of things under control. Quickly.

The reality is, the out of the box valving is nothing more than a “base” to get you somewhat in the ballpark. But I certainly wouldn’t call it close.

 

I get that, the rear we went one step up per kings chart. the front I left alone with the "total chaos" spec valving, CO I have no idea whats in them.

Unfortunately I have to wait for cooler weather as the des is blistering hot.

 

Changing whole stacks is fine and all. But something I’ve learned (from a pro that I have been blessed with learning from). Is it’s not always a change from say .012 to .015. A lot of my current valving involves say double stacked .012’s or .015’s with certain shims removed entirely with plates etc. Things get a little bit interesting outside of just swapping straight stacks.

 

yes, we went from standard to Medium Firm and up in thickness on a few in the stack, comp tubes are almost in all the way too. with recent changes I havent had a chance to take videos so I can see the attitude of the truck over terrain, just have the seat of my pants guess...

 

You’re probably having issues when you hit the bump zone. That’s the same battle I’ve been fighting. Weight is one solution to that. But there are some others as well. Shoot me a DM on the gram if you want.

 

How fast does the rear go through all it's travel. Sounds like maybe too much spring if you tried more damping but it still bucks too much

 

I have cranked near all the comp tubes in, I have added a few on rebound, makes no difference, think its time for more comp re-valving, or just wait for cooler weather and hire a tuning company to adjust in the des.

 

Prep for sand hollow at the end of the month underway. Love these jack stands. Can get the truck fully drooped with tires on in the garage finally.



But on the downside…..



That used main I threw in before koh didn’t last too long. Starting to be a recurring theme with this truck and busting main leafs. Wouldn’t be an issue with links

Springs were starting to sag anyways after about 2 years of abuse. So gonna order up some freshies for this trip and keep this thing going.

 

Going to try to explain this the best I can without pictures. I’m cycling 14” smoothies (not coilovers) on my 3G4R. 3 link kit with outboard shock relocation.

Any time I set up and cycled coilovers, I never let them pass over vertical when looking at them from behind the truck. I heard weird things happen when they do. That’s at full articulation. Question now is the smoothies do pass vertical at full articulation. Full droop side swings over past vertical maybe 6 degrees…not sure if weird things only happen with coilovers or if valving is what gets weird. Also, will it even matter a great deal if that’s true? At the point I’m fully articulated enough to pass vertical I won’t be going more than a few MPH crawling…

 

Starting to question if you have more than meets the eye here. Possibly from the anti wrap?

 

I thought the issue with shocks going over center is the possibility of it not going over center while articulating then most likely it will at minimum break the shock shaft.

 

Pay attention to the motion ratio through stroke of your shocks. If they are constant, amazing, and much easier to tune shocks (also pretty damn hard to package)
If they trend in one direction without major changes, especially if at jounce they are a better ratio than at rebound, okay to tune. But if the motion ratio goes up and then down through the stroke, it’s gonna be a giant headache to tune.
Or in simple internet terms, don’t let your leaned shocks go perpendicular and then lean the other direction through the suspension travel. But that’s generalizing a lot. Plus it’s just trigonometry so the longer your links and shocks, the ”slower” angle deltas you get.

 

I’m doubtful it’s more than wear and tear. Talking with a buddy that used to race leaf spring trucks he says he would break a main every race almost and have the pack serviced every race. When I joke about driving my truck like it’s a race car I’m not really joking and 90% of its life now is spent in the cinders in the whoops which is just brutal on things.

 

sounds like alot of work.....links sound so much easier....while changing rod ends a couple times a year...sadly i dont run my truck enough to warrant changing anything once a year...lol

 

the concern with a shock going past vert is that it can get stuck past 90 on the next compression and bind the suspension and create fantastic destruction…what you are describing is normal though and no risk of that happening with articulation

 

Anyone hear of or use or know anyone who is using Sidetracked Offroad beadlocks?
https://sidetrackedoffroad.com/wheels/beadlocks/

 

I see what you mean. I don’t think I’m over far enough to worry either way. Axle fully stuffed there’s no going past vertical, just full tilt.