Using an in cab push button switch to kill power to a Smittybilt winch.

My only concern with switches/solenoids for the winch is if, the shit hits the fan, a switch is just one more thing to go bad and prevent you from recovery.

 

Naw, if a switch fails, just bypass it by moving one cable to the other side of the switch. Just a small hassle, a switch is definately worth it for cutting power to the winch when not in use.

 

A couple possible scenarios that got me thinking and motivated to put a cutoff switch near the battery - one is you get in a front ender and the winch cables short out causing a fire hazard, another is the cables rub on something sharp while you are offroading on a long trip and they short, and probably last but worst is it’s halloween night, and a couple of pranksters unspool your winch and feed it over your truck cab roof and hook it to the rear bumper and turn it on, effectively folding your taco into a taco !

 

Haha probably one of my favorite comments of the year "probably last but worst is it’s halloween night, and a couple of pranksters unspool your winch and feed it over your truck cab roof and hook it to the rear bumper and turn it on, effectively folding your taco into a taco !". I love it.

Yeah but you're right. Just a good way to decrease a likelyhood of a short since the winch is all alone out in front of the truck. Of course, as in any heavy duty accident even the wires or battery alone could short causing a fire.

 

Thanks for the input. It seems like I'll just be using a switch under the hood and forgoing anything in the cab. Now my other question; what protection on the circuit for the winch is there? I don't see any in line fuse. What kind of protection does the winch have if overloaded? I've never had a winch before so this might be a dumb question. I thought something like this

$19 Blue Sea Systems 5191 Fuse Block Terminal 30-300 AMP

fuse on the terminal block, but I don't think 300 amps will be enough.

 

Thats a good fuse, I bought one for my accessory battery for powering my light and stuff, but not the winch. You are right, the highest option only goes up to 300amps. What winch model are you going to use? Do you know the amp ratings?

For electric motors like a winch, also for protecting battery banks, you will need an ANL type fuse like this:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5163/ANL_Fuse_-_750_Amp

Also get a block and cover for it:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5503/ANL_Fuse_Block_with_Insulating_Cover_-_35_to_750A

Warning: be sure to go through the Blue Seas authorized online dealer site listed in the “where to buy” option on the Bluesea.com site above- there are some overpriced knockoff ANL fuses and other questionable “Blue Sea” items listed if you search just using the amazonapp.

The authorized amazonones Blue Seas website currently refers to are these two sellers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B000XBB9VK

https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B001VIVWAW

 

Clean!!

 

What about a hard wired, in cab momentary rocker switch to run the winch in and out?

Doable? (Specifically on the smittybilt x20 10k)

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread. Anybody ever wire up their kill switch inside the cab? Probably hard to find a place to have it mounted anywhere. I only have this idea in mind because I was stuck nose up on an obstacle, couldn’t use my winch and had to be winched out by someone else. It would be sketchy trying to open a hood in a 90 degree angle.

 

pretty straight forward. there's relay's designed for the load, just need a switch to turn the relay on/off.

$15 iRhapsody 250A 12V Relay, 4 Pin SPST High Current Control, Split Charge Switch

https://www.amazon.com/irhapsody-Continuous-Starter-Current-Control/dp/B08F28SKX1?th=1

or if you're nervous about the current needed

$38 500 Amp Battery Isolator for Mobile Audio Relay Continuous Battery Isolator Relay Kit 12v 500A

https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Audio-Continuous-Battery-Isolator/dp/B082HMDMLG

 

Im curious how much of a short cut this really is? You still have to access the winch in front , free spool and set up your winch line. Is popping the hood and turning a cut off switch really inconvenient?

 

easy to say, but if the solenoid locks up, do you want to be reaching your hand all the way into the truck to shut it down?

winch relay's do lock up.
https://youtu.be/_k3_ia6-uIY?si=Fq_oehNG2bWq9c3K&t=677

i had those links to relay's so fast because after that video, i won't permanently connect my winch without an easy and quick electrical disconnect that i can perform from the cab.

 

He bought one off Amazon and didn't test It out before being on the trail?

 

to be fair, the majority of winches come pre-spooled. my apex, i've ran all of 25' feet of line to pull a 1,000 pounds, once. my trailer winch is pre-spooled, and currently sits in a box, but it won't be used until i need it either.

he blames the cheap parts, but i feel all the parts are cheap, even the name brand stuff...

 

picture truck almost 90 degrees nose up and in sketchy obstacle. Lots of fuckery involved opening that hood. First, get ladder to open hood since it’s so high up, second, have people holding hood making sure it doesn’t swing all the way open. Not being lazy, it’s the safety, etc involved.

fast forward to 27:28 minute mark

https://youtu.be/-qBKLKaqGZY?si=_yQKRhbc48W4GETd

 

@lit_taco4x4 get this Solenoid and I’ll wire it up to your Switchpro

$200 Blue Sea Systems 7713 ML-RBS Remote Battery Switch with Manual Control Auto-Release - 12V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006VELF94

 

done my boy, hell yeah!