1st Gen Haltech ECU Discussion

Forged VZ crank acquired

 

3VZ crank?

 

Yup out of a 94 Camry 3VZ-FE

 

This new engine is going to be a beast

 

I get that quite a bit if I idle in gear too long (A/C on more prone). Thought it was a hardware glitch or a temporary short for a while until I actually watched the CTS reading rise a couple times. Not sure what exactly controls the rad fan clutch, but it needs some encouragement. My cluster temp gauge also has risen higher than center in conjunction. This never happened on the factory ECU but not sure what needs to change

 

You can change the fluid in the rad fan clutch to kick in at different temps. A thicker fluid would have it kick on sooner. I'll see if I can find a thread I read on that previously.

Edit: here are a few
https://www.nichols.nu/tip482.htm

 

I've not had this issue but I converted to the GM LS engine temp sender too. I do notice lower RPMs my engine runs warmer than higher... but I picked up a perfect size Ford OEM PWM fan/shroud/controller combo that I'm going to install soon... which I'm hoping also perks up the A/C around town and idling.

 

My cluster temp gueage usually starts to go above the halfway point right around 210/215, It was reading 220 when that code popped up. black ridge on I-15 between Cedar and St George is brutal and being able to make that drive without issues is important.


I'm pretty sure I experienced some knock or pinging for the first time in that very drive yesterday.

Ambient air temps were 100+ intake air was around 112 and the coolant was scorching at about 220 and right at about 5 psi is sounded like a couple paint cans were shaking under the hood. If I let off it would go away but as soon as I started building boost past 5psi it would come back.

Id like to cap my boost pressure off at 4psi for right now but I haven't been able to find where in NSP to make that change.

Seeing the coolant temperatures rise like that felt like a total kick in the nuts

 

We can dial it back, but I'd like to see some logs first, I have a feeling it needs more fuel in the map, gotta drive carefully while that all adjusts, it's not quite ready for a full romp. I have a remote tuner I could hook you up with for a more complete dial in

 

I don't know how to initiate the logger
As soon as I heard the knock I touched the icon on the top right hoping it would start but it just opened up some menu that was too hard to try and read in the situation.
I did notice it was right on a point where the color on the map was transitioning from bright green into the more yellow shades


Right here

 

I added to my comment, reread and we can discuss

 

While you were adding to your comment I was uploading the Pic of where i think it needs more fuel.

I remote tune is probably wise

 

Curious what you come up with for that. I've toyed with the idea of going to an electric fan seutp. The fan really does put a big draw on the motor during the summer, so it would be nice to reclaim back a little power from that.
There are plenty of threads on horror stories for why not to go to an electric fan on these trucks though....

 

100% agree... aftermarket e fans are complete and utter shit and most of the time people have equally dogshit shrouds or mount them right to the rad fins as well. None of that ever works, and to top it off they use simple temp probe on/off sensors so they usually turn on too late and off too early.

I've had great luck with factory fans though and there's a great big selection out there of them. I have one in mind and a PWM controller for it that I am confident will work and allow nice fine control with varying speed and intensity depending on conditions the haltech can read and vary output with.

 

so you're planning to control with the haltech? it would be awesome to have a new age intelligent fan setup like that.
What did you find for a shround that would fit well with our space constraints?

 

I took a measuring tape to the junkyard with me, can use just about any efan with the right size controller. I'm going to be trying one from a Ford Flex, comes with the commonly available Bosch controller that I've used on other setups. Controls super easy using the Haltech thermofan option and a single DPO, 100Hz carrier frequency and you get PWM duty variability from 10.1% to 94.9%, the other percentages are used to trigger test modes in the PWM controller. The fan I've found is a large single unit but if you found a better dual fan option that fit you can use the controllers on two as long as it's under ~60a else you can just use two controllers and they can both be hooked to the same DPO. You also don't have to worry about inrush current and huge draws when the fans turn on because the pwm controllers all use soft start and just slowly ramp the fans in to the speed requested by the map.

 

That all sounds ideal to me! Except for the fact I don't have any more DPO available on my 750....
Would there be any benefit to duals versus a big single fan? I would think a single would be able to pass more cfm.

 

No spare ign outputs open still?

Possibly packaging, if you use two controllers you could make them staged and use one for AC... but otherwise not really.

 

I do have 3 ignition outputs. I guess those are DPO's now that I think about it, even though they're not explicitly called out as so...

Got it. Having two fans sounds like more complexity than I would want on a trail rig anyways.

 

Yup, they're reassign-able as DPOs with the same restrictions as a normal DPO. Big single fan is my thought as well. I'll show the one I got when I get home today