What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

no cordless hole puncher?

 

After 110,000kms, it was time to do a front brake job. So I stepped up a bit and did a 4Runner rotor and caliper swap with TRD pads and braided stainless steel lines. So far I am very happy with the set up. They should work well while towing in the mountains of B.C.


The original set up.


The new set up with Raybestos S-groove rotors and Powerstop calipers.


And the new look thru the wheel.

My initial impression is very positive with this mod. Everything bolts right up and I feel like I can modulate the brakes better without the bite the stock brakes had.

 

I think my front rotors are slightly warped. No pulsation and or vibration in the steering wheel around town but start to do it intermittently when they heat up going down steep grades in the mountains. Even with engine breaking. I’m monitoring them and hope to just keep using them until its time to change them out. Maybe do what you have done. Not 100% sure but I think it’s the rotors.

 

Ordered my Body armor bumper amd light bar from extreme terrain today . Sorry no pics yet !

 

I have had mistorqued lugs nuts cause that before. May be worth checking.

 

I am at 55k and I noticed moderate pulsating when coming down a steep grade. That is an indication of rotor warping?

 

I've been loving these Brute tool boxes. Mounting hardware didn't match my set up, so I had to do some custom 80/20 work to stabilize and secure everything.

Next step is to enclose the top so I can sleep in it and haul ladders etc. Likely will do a DIY wedge tent.

 

Love extruded aluminum. It’s so versatile. Easy to cut, doesn’t rust. What city/region is that?

 

From what I remember, you can experience a pulsation in the brake peddle and or a vibration in the steering wheel like its vibrating left to right very quickly, slowing down as as you slow. I do believe there could be a few other issues causing these symptoms too. I'm not a mechanic but had this issue before on a prior vehicle. I have 66K Kms/41.0105 miles on my front brakes.

 

Philadelphia. The tool boxes came from a vendor in Michigan.

 

I like to push my shifter over to the left and down shift to help the brakes out on steep down grades. One example is Novelty Hill Rd outside of Redmond. It’s not only steep but it’s windy. All the vehicles in front ride their brakes all the way down the hill without letting them cool. I like to down shift to second and coast down barely using my brakes. I use a little more fuel but I’m not going over say 3k rpms so it’s not a big load on the motor. I never ride my brakes down a hill. Always downshift to compensate. Comes from my years of driving dump truck letting the compression help slow me down and not roasting the brakes. Had my truck in a few weeks ago for a check up and oil change and they said my brakes were in excellent shape at 40k mi

 

I do the same thing with S mode both up and down. Used to drive a Tandem Dump Truck with a PAC brake and a no synchro 8LL speed Eaton Fuller. With my Taco I'm sometimes down to S-3 or 2 if needed. One steep hill that I travel regularly is Mine Hill outside of Princeton. On my Taco, I'm not scared to let the RPM's climb within reason to help slow me down. I will make short, small brake applications to bring the RPM's down without riding the brakes to maintain road speed. General rule of thumb, whatever gear you dive up a hill in is what you should drive down if loaded. Both automatic and standard transmissions. A little disappointed that this has started on my front brakes tho. Last service the brakes were inspected and documented as in great shape as well. They won't look for slight warping unless I were to mention something. Some disagree with engine breaking saying it's hard on the transmission and suggest its cheaper to replace brakes than a transmission. Been engine braking on all my personal vehicles for years and never had an issue. Both auto and manual. However, I stay right up with all maintenance.

 

This should be taught in driving school and my kids just went thru it and it isn't. My dad taught me this when I was learning to drive. As long as you watch RPMs, it is the best way to go down a long, steep incline.

 

It can be. Living in the mountains and having recently raised some new drivers I've been able to experience this way too many times (plus a spouse that is a great driver but not as mechanically aware as I wish). Part of it is the heat from extended downhill braking, and the other half is stopping. For example, the traffic light at the end of an extended downhill that we drive almost daily. The rotors are hot from braking, and the calipers squeeze one segment at the stop while the rotors cool down unevenly and they warp.

If it's not too bad, you can just live with it. Or you can have them machined (yes, I know there are multiple opinions on that vs. replacement). My experience has been: Camry 2x warping in 174k miles, Camry 3x in 215k, 4Runner 1x in 250k and I've never replaced a rotor; just had them machined and fresh pads.

So shift down, don't hold the brakes, and don't let others drive your truck and all will be well (Good luck with all that!). Or just accept an extra brake job now and then because our cars are meant to be driven and stuff happens.

 

I basically came here to say this part. At a brake class I went to years ago as a dealer tech they went over this and also mentioned the extremely hot pads being squeezed against one spot on the equally hot rotor can cause residue from the pad to stick to the rotor giving it a thick spot which can cause the same symptom.

 

You were not, perhaps an airdale were you?

 

Got the new tires in. I read for probably 4 weeks and contemplated what tire to get. My truck is a 2wd but I’ve found with the right tire I can go all the places I want which mostly includes off the beaten path fishing spots or forgotten service roads. I’m making the most of it and loving every second. 255/85r16s. I know there might be some rub but worst case I’ll flip them and make some money back if it’s too bad. Plan on running black steelies somewhat styled like the FJ ones. Not going for a top of the line every aspect modified crawler. Just enough to get me the places I wanna go

 

Continue with the keep-it-light approach and install a 5500 lb UTV winch (~36 lb ). Then throw a tool bag with snatch blocks (hard & soft), extra rope, tree-saver, etc in the truck.

 

I think the door sticker is the primary reference and you've found that. Perhaps maybe put your VIN into a search engine.

When I bought my '23 the CarFax and even the title said it was SILVER. I brought this to the attention of the Tag Agent and called the selling dealer to get them to refile for a corrected title. I ended up having to send a copy of that sticker which clearly showed the VIN number and the paint color/trim number along with an affidavit form. Got it corrected and a new title sent in 10 days.

 

How close to silver are you?