Show off your 3D printed parts

Its been so long ago I don't even remember lol but it wouldn't do you any good to have my setting anyways. I printed them out of PLA(as a test) around this time last year and they worked great all through the winter and spring. But of course being PLA as soon as it started getting warm in the truck the inserts got loose. I need to get my enclosure finished and print them out of ASA or ABS. I honestly think you could model the threads into the part and be fine without inserts.

 

This shifter is really done well... you should put it up on printables or thingaverse or at least share it with me

 

More just curious about your infill and how you put in the inserts.

 

They sell soldering iron tips for the inserts on Amazon. I'd suggest a good soldering iron that can be set to specific temperatures and set it to the extrusion temps of the plastic. Too hot can make some plastics brittle. This is the way to go if you're just popping a few in. It can be tricky to get them perfectly straight in the hole, and if you're not careful they can actually drift sideways as well.

 

For infill I went with 25% but did a 2mm wall thickness so the insert holes and the countersunk holes would have some strength to them. For the inserts its exactly what 2008Taco said. Just get a good soldering iron and press them in as straight as possible.

 

Here is an accident I had last week. When I noticed it move I moved it back to where it should be. Saved it mainly for destructive testing at a later date. That said I screwed in a screw, grabbed it with a pair of pliers and pulled as hard as I could and it didn't even budge or make any cracking sounds. Couldn't get it to budge pushing on the screw with my fingers towards the screw up either. Going to need some leverage to really test it. This part has 1/4-20 printed threads too, so I wanna test those out for strength as well. That's another day though. The tools are a cold rainy walk away... Also, don't preheat the inserts... Put them on the tip, and then up against the part and they will heat up and start sinking in with some downwards perssure. If you let them sit on the tip for 10-20 seconds first they go in fast and can move sideways fast, ask me how i know! Im setup at 4 perimeters on a 0.4 nozzle, so about 1.6mm wall thickness and a 8mm long insert. I'm quite impressed.

 

Warn Zeon Platinum Winch Controller mount.
Printed in Onyx (Nylon/Carbonfiber).
I used a Nite-Ize magnetic mount to attach to the dash.

 

Just updated from a customized Ender 3 to a Bambu X1-Carbon and all I can say is holy crap.

The movement on this is SO fast it looks unnatural, like something that cannot exist, and yet the print quality is as good or better than my tuned printer. It straight up cut the print time of my headlight tabs in half, and I have not even begun to push the machine.

That and the ams is awesome.

I have been printing for years and this completely changed printing for me.

Anyways, off to print some gears to let my lathe do metric threads

 

has anyone created 3d print for the plugs to go under front end to stop the whistling after removing the airdam? toyota part number 90950-a1021

 

you mean Gorilla tape?

 

well that works too i guess, but i want to 3d print the plugs , but need the STL file

 

Just found this thread!

Printed a few things for my rig in the last year or so

 

@aero253 did you do 100% infill or something?? i was thinking about trying it out myself

 

Couple smaller items I am working on.

Zip Tie Mount for 1.75OD Tubing

Replacement Center Caps for my SCS Wheels

2nd and 3rd Gen Frame Plugs for the front bar that is seen with aftermarket bumpers.

Have some other things in the queue that I am working on here and there... but finally decided to start posting some of the smaller items.

 

What filament are you printing these with?

 

I do my initial test prints with Sunlu PLA+, once fitment is checked, design modifications are made, etc, and I am ready for production, I then print my production pieces with ASA.

 

Any tips for printing ASA? I have an enclosure and my first print (rearview mirror bracket) printed wonderfully and removed reasonably well from my Stock Ender 3 build plate. Since that print I can't get the ASA to stick to that plate or the textured glass plate I've had waiting to install. No glues or shmoos because that shouldn't be needed. PEI sheet should be in tomorrow if Amazon employs merchant vessals.

 

Personal choice but with asa and abs I like to heat the bed first for like 10 minutes to get the enclosure warm, biggest thing is no cooling fans and don’t open the enclosure it will cause the print to warm. Also let it cool down naturally by its self. If you don’t you have a chance to warp it when pulling it from the plate. I typically wait and hour or so after the print is done before opening the enclosure or to even attempt to pull the print off.

 

Your best bet is the glues and shmoos. Don't buy into them not being necessary, this is mostly marketing lies. It will be hit and miss on the pei. Best bet if you're adamant on not using them is to scruff the pei with a scotchbrite pad, spray some 91% isopropyl alcohol on it, and wipe clean with a microfiber cloth. It will still come off sometimes, especially on larger prints, expect your biggest to be about the size of a coke can. Bigger prints will come with more failures.

A hair dryer or heat gun can help up the chamber temps, but doing this every 10-15 minutes can get tiresome and lead to other problems on long prints like the print becoming wavy.

no or very low part cooling fan. Most printers are too slow and their pcf are too unfocused. This leads them to cool the entire part where you only want it to flash freeze the filament that was just extruded. This will cause internal stresses leading to cracks and the part lifting off the build plate.

Mouse ears. Place 1" circles at corners of your parts 2-3 layers thick. these will help hold the corners down and are easily removed after the print.

Having now printed a few hundread kg's of asa, I could go on and on and on, but the most important thing is this. Asa off gases more than any other filament I have printed, and that gas leaves a stubbornly tough coat on every part of your printer. But more importantly, those fumes are toxic. Put it in a garage or shed. Don't be in the same room while it's printing.

 

My biggest problem with the glues and build plates is there doesn't seem to be any concensus (use glue as release agent, use glue to help stick, ASA sticks too good to PEI, ASA doesn't stick to PEI, ASA is bad for texture PEI, ASA is bad for smooth PEI..). My conclusion is ASA is a PITA!

Mouse ears is interesting and makes sense if you can get the ASA to stick to the bed at all. I've got my printer in the HVAC garage and don't spend a lot of time in there while printing. Printer is in a LACK enclosure with the minisplit on 80F out there. I've tried higher temps, lower temps, running the heat gun in the enclosure, and finally threw some Blue painters tape down.. It's sticking now but the print looks like crap..

Ender 3 Marlin firmware, stock hotend, stock build plate but put the reality glass plate on to try to resolve not sticking issues, cleaned with IPA, cleaned with dawn, practically everything I can find online.

My first ASA print but since this one it's been a shit show..



Shit show..