Anything welding

I need to take a 1" 316 tube and bend one end to fit a rectangular flange. The flange opening has the same total length as a 1" circumference.

What is the best way to bend the tube? The only thing I can think of is to hammer it.

 

You hammer it, you will only crush it

Pictures speak much better than what you're trying to describe

Take it to a shop to bend it properly, that is if cutting it down and welding isn't an option

 

@Kwikvette Found something you need to build.. plans are free, and they also offer sheet metal kits.



https://laserbros.shop/products/tumbler-kit

 

I have a rectangular exhaust port on a small 2 stroke. I need a 1" exhaust pipe welding to a new flange. I think the right way to do this is mandrel in a press. This is a 1 off part so I'm trying to keep the cost low.

What kind of shop would typically do this sort of bend?

 

Whole thing looks legit as fuck

Good thing my parts come out dross-free

 

Based on your initial post, I thought you meant 3/16" as in thickness...and possibly even square if not round.

Being exhaust, just request it from any exhaust shop.

Something like that sounds like a $20 job; I've bought plenty of pipe with a bend or three for as little as $50 for previous cars.

 

yea but think of the fun of building it...

 

The littlest things offer the biggest convenience.

Used some of my +3 year old flat stock to make a foot pedal mount.

3 holes, 2 of which I used a countersink bit on, and a 90 degree bend.





The M6 bolts sit flush with the metal bracket allowing the pedal and mount to lay flat.

 

You have much more control with air than I expected. That bender seems like the better route vs the swag kit.

 

I got a lot of PM's on FB about it and it made me consider making a video overview of the whole thing.

I'd love to do one if it incites interest here as well.

It's been out for awhile but the only videos online are those by Trick Tools themselves.

 

https://youtu.be/VfpJOhhtsHI?si=hQLnu6FpKCvpMjFN

Excuse the bad quality; was done on my phone and I used an earpiece as my mic.

Phone mic doesn't work well from a distance.

 

Anyone have any pictures of "small" welding art? Here are a couple I found.

 

One of my teachers made this like 2yrs ago

 

Just watched it. Very informational and audio was clear to me.

One question. Wouldnt the die setup you posted a while ago accomplish the same thing on the swag setup? Why did you go in the bend press direction?

I think where I want smaller radii bends I would also want more than 10" of bend length.

Thanks for makin the video

 

Thanks!

The issue with such a die on the swag setup is that, if you never ran a press brake of any type before, you run the Swag setup thinking it'll do all you'll need.

Well, the Swag setup was my intro to press brakes so I was naive as fuck and didn't know better.

This means you'll go ahead and weld up that large piece of angle iron that's meant to be used as your bottom die and send it.

Once you begin to use it, without having placed any thoughts as to what you'd be making long term, you find yourself being limited in the various ways I mentioned in my video. That's where the Bend Press comes into play.

If you went ahead and kept your upper punch setup on the Swag kit, and opted to create your own bottom die holder, that could be a really good option for people out there. However, here are the gotcha's to that -

The Swag punch holder is meant for a 3/4" tang, which is not standard by any means whether it's Euro or American tooling.

The Swag punch is much larger and is not meant for such smaller material where a narrower, 30 degree angled punch would be used. Different die setups call for different punch types. So that new bottom die holder you just fabbed up? You'll be limited as well and will require to follow the tonnage charts for bending (look at them now).

At this point, now you're looking at making your own punches cause you just fabbed up a bottom holder and dropped several hundreds on the new bottom die. And since you're upgrading everything anyway, you realize the cost of 4140 and getting it machined (if you don't have the means to do it yourself).

You're essentially replacing the entire Swag setup, and it's costing you much more than the kit itself ran you, and you're still only limited to the 19" working width for the 20 ton kit.

All that time and money is better spent making something from the ground up, at a width that is much more appropriate like 24" to 36". May as well start off at 30T and move up to as much as 50T for those widths.

For awhile now I've been learning about safely bending parts with a specified bend radius, learning bend allowance, neutral axis, and implementing setbacks on a flange to figure out bend lines on a flat pattern.

You say you want a smaller bend radius, but you also want a working width of more than 10" - you can't have your cake and eat it if you intend to do this for cheap.

The Bend Press isn't meant to replace the Swag kit - that's not my message. My message here is that the Bend Press picks up where the Swag kit loses steam and it does a great job at it. Sure, I have a much smaller working width but going back to the tonnage chart, you'll see how many tons are required when bending thicker materials while keeping to a bend radius as small as possible for your given material.

If you want to bend larger items and don't mind a larger bend radius, the Swag kit is for you.

If you want precise bends with a smaller bend radius because a design calls for it, the Bend Press is a great stepping stone that'll make you appreciate what the large and expensive setups offer.

 

Then again I never went to college so the only shit I know is what I've learned during my off time whether they were from instructional videos, personal experience, and talking to seasoned press brake operators and more.

I'm always picking people's brains (with experience that are far smarter than I am) as I'm a sponge for knowledge.

 

I appreciate it, same thing Im doin here

 

That's fancy; mine were always boring stick figures

 

How comfortable would you be trying to replicate a part that a company already makes but slightly modified? Is there any way photos can help figure out sizing of shit?

Back story:

Everyone and their mom makes arb compressor brackets for the Bronco. However I have the morr flate compressor that I would like to mount under the hood and because of how it mounts I am limited on my options. I found SDHQ's mount that will def work for me but I will need to weld a bottom to it. Kinda hard spending almost $300 on something I'll still potentially need to cut up/modify. Any chance you would know how to recreate the mount by looking at their pictures? Or would you need some sort of measurement to go off?

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/21-current-ford-bronco-sdhq-built-arb-air-compressor-mount
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...-99cc-4cbd-b1f6-bbd66b19b410.pdf?v=1667513622

 

My dude, I love doing that sort of stuff.

I'd ask that you make cardboard templates, and on a sheet of paper sitting behind it, provide the dimensions of said parts.

Being that you'll take a picture of said parts in a flat, 2D format, you can do something as simple as draw a line down a bend.

I'd mock a few parts up in 16 gauge, and send you a set while keeping the other set for myself.

From there, you would share with me any changes needed in relation to the parts provided which I'll apply to the mock up set, and move forward with the final parts.

The most important thing to note is - are the holes or bends on parts A, or B, or C, specific to the vehicle mount/clearance, or does it simply need to match the part it bolts onto (if that makes sense). Meaning, an assembly may have a tolerance of 1" in total height...and if I come up 0.5" in total height...that's fine because the part fits where it needs to be and matches the secondary part it bolts onto.

Doing this via PM would be best!