Home Improvement Today?

This is currently a 240v (220V?) 60 amp breaker. Do they make a 30 amp 120V breaker that could replace this one as far as size? I know the wiring will be different.

 

You'll have to go with a single 30 amp and just get a blank for that brand box.

 

That’s what I was thinking. The guy that was going to do it said I had the wrong breaker, I don’t think I do. This one should fit in the main box or the sub-panel, right?

 

If you have a SquareD box then yes, I'm pretty sure. There's several brands that style breaker that are somewhat interchangeable (Siemens/Murray, Cutler Hammer, GE) and will snap in, but I would recommend sticking with whatever manufacture the sticker inside that box says.

 

Bryant



not sure what the sub-panel is

 

Ooof, that's an oldie with some mixed breakers. Not even going to get into that...

Pop open the cover to the sub, find the manufacturer, and go from there.

 

remember how i said the company i used to work for did the home depot thing for a while? it's not a very proud moment of my career, and led to a ton of animosity between me and that previous boss at the time...

it's really just math. home depot specializes in getting the work--they offer the 'complete package'. for that, they charge an 18% markup on the entire job, for that really helpful person behind the computer that smiles and sets up your kitchen in the fancy computer program. this goes for everything from materials to labor.. the important thing here is that many people don't know or have anyone else to turn to, and home depot is offering a one-stop-shop for all of it, with a singular big-name contact to get everything done.

but no contractor is giving discounts for their labor, or materials, and many of those contractors are already purchasing material through home depot(think about that markup rabbit hole), so the 18% is ON TOP of what anyone could purchase and have any normal contractor install at their normal rates...

that's just the beginning. the jobs are quoted by people that generally don't know much, with minimal training, and part of their schpeel is to update everything to modern codes. most jobs have change orders once the certified professionals start coming in(and noting what changes would be required to meet modern codes), that average around $15k on top of the original quote... but what gets a lot of people is that they roll all the original and added costs into a convenient payment plan...

that's why i suggested you look anywhere else...

it made me extremely anxious every time i even saw one of the jobs on the schedule in the next week, like walking into a minefield, blind...

that looks to be a generic included-with-enclosure breaker. they're typically ITE style, which normally the siemens breakers fit best. the homeline breaker you have might work, though i've had some enclosures that they won't, and a siemens fits better without alteration. it really comes down to the buss bar style within the enclosure. siemens breakers have an additional recess just behind the fingers that grab the tab--the homeline doesn't, making it sit proud of the enclosure, with minimal contact.

that panels top half has been updated with siemens breakers. i would highly recommend considering updating the rest of them, at the very least, the two 30A pairs with nails in them, with actual 2-pole 30A breakers. though it's really about time for a panel change...

 

I’m glad I’m not the only one who has panel issues.

 

Wife has a lable maker I need to use for the panel box.

 

One of my most satisfying mods to date:

 

Is the Fish one for an aquarium or is it an abbreviation for something else?
My panel has a breaker labeled "Fan/Fish" and it seemed odd to me, did a previous owner had a circuit specifically dedicated and labeled for their fish tank?

 

You guessed wisely

 

yes, but it's always smartest to label based on location, not current-owner purpose.

you have no idea how many houses i've been in that the panel was labeled 3-5 homeowners ago, and it's got things like "mom/dad's room"(with 3 equal-sized bedrooms), "Kathy's room", "puzzle room"... if in doubt, follow compass directions. "north side kitchen outlets" "sw bedroom 1", etc.

 

Found in factory panels:

"New machine" - When, 1977...?

"Dave's office" -- 10 offices, no Dave, nobody remembers Dave...
"Motor" --- which one out of the 25 in this area...

"Light" ---- oh, come on now...

 

^^^


I give the electrician who replaced my panel when I moved in a lot of credit... the circuit path for so much non stove/range/hvac stuff is wild and how can you label a one that contains the following:

Two outlets in my daughter's bedroom (one on each of two adjacent walls), an outlet on the back side of one of the walls that ends up in the living room, another outlet on an adjacent wall in the living room, up to a 3 gang box with three switches (one to drive the aforementioned outlet, one for the outside light, and one for entry way light), then over to another wall by the fireplace, up into the crawlspace for the garage overhead light as well as up to the attic for a single closet witch and finally to the stairway to get upstairs.

Like if that circuit controlled everything on one SIDE of the house, ok I can understand. But it's like they just put the wire on a cat and let it roam around the house.

Definitely stealing the label maker solution from above... my daughter loves using that thing, I can put her on the job.

 

Unrelated to home improvement, but it's always good to see a fellow DT fan in the wild.

 

We just built two years ago and I work at a building store but all of our black metal fascia around the whole house was like oxidizing never saw anything like it before. So we just finished changing it out and where the porch beam is we widened it and swapped out the 6x6 pt for 8x8 rough hemlock turned out pretty nice

 

Nice looking home. I like that front door color!

 

Thank you we usually build every other year but our interest rate is so low right now I can justify selling then adding 5% on a new loan right now.