Any electricians by trade? I Need your help!

I kind of figured us Tacoma owners help each other out. So anybody that’s a certified electrician, I’d like you to take a look at these pictures and give me your opinion. I’m buying a house and it’s getting ready to go through FHA appraisal/inspection. the house inspector flagged these issues, and in your opinion, I would like to know how easy these things would be to Correct. Thank you!

 

I’m not an electrician but I can do wiring that is much safer and cleaner than that. The way he put all the unprotected romex in without anchoring them and through the open knock out holes is asking for shorts.

I would ask Mr. DIY I Don’t Need Permits (the owner) to have a certified electrician pull a permit and fix it correctly as a requirement prior to sale. I guess you can ask a certified electrician to come in and give you an estimate and use that as a sales bargaining chip if they refuse to do the repairs.

Also be sure the owner discloses any other non-permitted work they did. Your home insurance will not cover a fire if they see that.

 

I'm not an electrician.
But the guy that did electrical, obviously didn't own a hole saw, or paddle bit.

And figure 5.2 picture 8. I'm pretty sure the wire needs to be in conduit.

The knockouts and clamps are easy enough to fix.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/garage-workshop.80/

 

Looks like the work was done by DIY Harry Homeowner Electric LLC.

 

Looks half the homes where I live.
If it functions, it "passes".

Somethings I can understand. Others......Just pay a guy that knows.

 

To start, may get more/better attention from this forum ... I requested the move: https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/garage-workshop.80/

Not electrician by trade, but I know some. You have issues generally with "unsecured/unprotected" wires.

> The wire running down the wall to the in 5.2 item 8 and 5.2 item 9 need to be at least secured to the wall with clamp, probably put inside metal conduit to protect it. Need to unwire, put the conduit up then re-attach to the box.
> 5.2 item 3 and4 and item 5 cannot hang outside of a joist/wall-stud. Too much exposure to crimping. Will need to be contained in some kind of wooden boxing at least. Not a cheap/easy operation.
> 5.1 is all about sl many wires that can touch metal sides (the bare-ground wires) or just a rat's next of looping over and in front of components. "Missing knockouts" mean that the small circles on the sides to keep fingers/mice out need to be replaced somehow to fully enclose the box. Power to the box must be off, then rewired and holes sealed per-code ... no games allowed in the central box.

EDIT: This is why plumbers and electricians must carefully time their work in new construction ... everything through a stud/joist, each has their own placement codes, those codes cause placement conflicts. AND ALL enclosed by drywall.

 

Since the home inspector flagged the wiring, I assume that gives you negotiating leverage to get the house price lowered. If so, that will save you some money if you choose to correct the issues.

My guess is Rube Goldberg was the person who lived in the house at one time.

 

Thanks for the advice. Yeah, I’m definitely gonna try to get the sellers to pay for The corrections prior to closing.

 

Thanks I didn’t know that there was a thread like this!

 

I added wires to my basement. I divided the whole-basement lighting circuit into a back-basement/font-basement leg. I added a circuit breaker to my main panel. I am not an expert but I tried to follow code. My work passed inspection when I sold the house.

Where ever wires were merged with wire-nuts I placed the nuts INSIRE metal boxes side-attached to joists, ensured the boxes had internal ground wires. The wires ran through joists or studs ... not on top of. I even placed metal nail-plates on the side of the stud adjacent to the wires to protect those for the drywall /finishing work. For the main box circuit breaker I followed the pictures and works EXACTLY, using ONLY long enough wire for the run, keeping ground wires on the same side as existing ground wires, no contact with wall of the box.

 

The last house I sold, I had to correct a few issues before I could sell it.

1. Remove the oil tank from the front lawn and pay for the soil inspection. (Buyer had to put in their own heating system).
2. Remove the non EPA rated wood stove from the fireplace.
3. Install Carbon Monoxide detectors on all the floors.

Push the seller to make it right for you and enjoy your new house.

 

Sounds like you did a great job! I wish the person that did this. It took that kind of Time to do it correctly.

 

Thanks for the Advice!

 

They sell knock out plugs, the unprotected wires need to be enclosed(conduit or BX) the wiring needs to be neat and secured. I also see white wires going to the circuit breakers. Should be 12/3. White wires can be “made black by taping if they are a switched circuit) so ifs it’s a 220v circuit you may need to re-wire. I would also check circuit breaker amperage to appropriate wire guage. 14=15. 12=20. 10=30 if my memory is good. If you’re buying get the seller to fix or give money rebate.

 

@soundman98

 

Thanks!

 

Either the seller remedies (to code, using a licensed electrician) before sale or they knock $10K off the closing price.

 

You need a full evaluation of the circuit loads to rooms, types of wires going to which post on circuit breakers, the whole picture. As stated about wire loads (14 gauge = 15 amps, 12 gauge = 20 amps) for the wires going to each room ... small bedrooms can handle 14 gauge, laundry rooms need 12 gauge. They may have run undersized wire to rooms, or just put more into a room (converted a closet to a laundry room) than is safe.

The more I think about the more concerned I am.

 

That's why I suggested "$10K off the sale price"..

$15-$20K if it's in an expensive urban metro area