Rubbing after lift

After 2.5" of lift you start running into problems with geometry ... start at cutting/heating the plastic ...then alignment to try n clear cab mount if needed....then...snippy..snip...cab mount if needed....

 

i am aware of that, I thought they were going to combine it with th locker anytime.
I’d still rather have manual hubs regardless.

 

i think someone is working on another module that actually does both right now. i have the locker anytime module myself. could use the 2lo for towing boat around yard.

convenience of on demand 4x4 is too good for me to sacrifice having manual hubs. especially in winter. alot of people dont like it but fords auto locking hub setup is probably my favorite setup available. same benefits of manual hubs with no rotating front drivetrain while having the convenience of push button 4x4 in the cab while moving. imo the last manual hub setups on 1st gen tacomas were over rated as they were actually weaker than the add system because of the smaller cv shaft diameter. also frequently had issues siezing up in salt belt areas up north

 

I always recommend just doing a CMC, you can try and do a bunch of other little "easier" stuff to get rid of the rubbing but the real only solution is cutting the cab mount, alignment can help mud flaps may help, etc, etc but its still going to be tight and it still going to rub when the suspension is articulated. Just do the CMC and forget about it forever. A properly done CMC can be almost un-noticeable and is perfectly safe, you're going to waste a lot of (your) time and maybe money waiting for someone to try and fix it with minor adjustments.

 

I may have missed it in here but what is the wheel offset? That plays a huge roll in how things will clear. As suggested alignment with added caster should do the trick. I was able to run a 285/70r17 on a +1 wheel with bolth an spc and dirt king uca without touching the cab mount. Every truck is a touch different but your wheel looks way offset to the rear of the wheel well.

 

On a slightly unrelated, yet related note.....did they stack multiple spacers on top of your 5100's or is that one giant spacer!? Your control arm doesn't look too drooped out surprisingly.....

Yes, it's your tire size and caster. You might never be able to completely get rid of the rub, especially turned in reverse and while wheeling it.

 

looks like 6112s with toytec top hat. its not a spacer. its like a cup that the coil goes up inside.

 

How's that tophat different than a spacer? It just lowers the point where the top of the coilovers bolts to the truck....but without compressing the spring. Besides that one difference, it seems like a spacer to me.

 

Pre load spacers do not increase the length of the overall shock assembly they just pre load the spring just like any fancy king or fox to adjust ride height.
Top spacers increase the length of the shock assembly making the shock now the bump stop instead of the actual bump stop. This also increases the droop which can cause binding issues in ball joints and the cv.
Simple form touching the coil ok between the strut mount and the frame bad.

Note, I don't know for sure that's a pre load spacer might be be a fancy top hat that I can't find any info on.

 

like i said. it just looks like a spacer. its hollow. the coil is sat up inside of it. no different than any other top hat spacer. fox does same with 2.0 coilovers and readylift

 

like others have said, try to get an alignment and get as much caster as possible, but you may ultimately need a cab mount chop. Id honestly probably just recommend the cmc, cause even if you get just enough clearance to not rub, the second you take the truck off road you will rub

 

Removing the spacers got rid of the rubbing, still clears the stock UCAs too.