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Welded on Rock sliders rust removal?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by anethema, Apr 9, 2011.

  1. Apr 9, 2011 at 1:41 PM
    #1
    anethema

    anethema [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Dawson Creek,BC
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    ARB Bumper,OEM Roof rack modded for access cab, Allpro Rock Sliders,Icon Adjustable coilovers,More Tie Downs in bed, Firestone Airbags in rear,Block heater
    Hey, noticed the surface rust getting to be annoyingly bad on my rock sliders. I'd like to remove the rust then paint them with bedliner, but not sure the best way to go about removing the rust.

    I've been going at them a bit with a wire wheel on a drill, but its taking a very long time to get to bare metal, and the are is so tight (sliders are welded on) that it will take days at this rate.

    Anyone know of the best way to remove this rust so I can paint?

    Will a little surface rust on it keep digging in under the surface if I bedliner over it ?

    Due to proximity with the truck any big tools etc could be hard to get in there.

    Here is a pic:

    [​IMG]

    Ideas?

    What about a little mouse type sander like this with some rough paper, would that work ok ?

    [​IMG]
    http://t.co/5cfdJrv
     
  2. Apr 9, 2011 at 2:12 PM
    #2
    Mxpatriot

    Mxpatriot Well-Known Member

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    Grinding wheel with a large wire brush for the parts you can reach, coarse sand paper for the parts you can't. It's going to be a bitch but you gotta do what you gotta do.
     
  3. Apr 9, 2011 at 2:22 PM
    #3
    Demon Taco

    Demon Taco Well-Known Member

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    Have you thought of using Por-15?.This stuff requires you to paint over the rust,then you recoat with your normal spray paint of your choice.Try www.por15.com. You can find it in most auto parts stores.The stuff hardens like a rock.I use it on a lot of different parts.
     
  4. Apr 9, 2011 at 3:02 PM
    #4
    Dadic 78

    Dadic 78 Well-Known Member

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    you can use a purple 3M sanding wheel, waaaaay more effective than a wire wheel.

    As for getting in the tough areas where a drill won't reach, just use some 100 grit sandpaper, and elbow grease. Sand 'er down to bare metal, so no rust is remaining, then prime it up, and paint, POR-15, whatever...
     
  5. Apr 9, 2011 at 3:29 PM
    #5
    Tim A

    Tim A Well-Known Member

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    I used a 4.5" angle grinder with this wire wheel. Awesome.

    [​IMG]

    Edit: but por15 is a great idea too since that's pretty tight in there.
     
  6. Apr 9, 2011 at 3:40 PM
    #6
    anethema

    anethema [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. I got one of the wheels like Tim A showed and another one but cupped so they all point the same way.

    I'm not really into painting right over the rust but I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Take some more pics.
     
  7. Apr 9, 2011 at 3:43 PM
    #7
    Tim A

    Tim A Well-Known Member

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    FYI that is exactly what por 15 is designed for...it won't even adhere to bare steel. Lots of info on the web about it...def worth checking into.
     
  8. Apr 9, 2011 at 3:46 PM
    #8
    fvtalon

    fvtalon Well-Known Member

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    Either get a longish strip of emery cloth about 1-2" wide, loop it over the top and use a cow milking motion to sand the bars or try some naval jelly or the like or both. Should be able to find both at a good hardware store.
     
  9. Apr 9, 2011 at 4:00 PM
    #9
    DevL

    DevL Well-Known Member

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    POR of POR 15 stands for

    Paint
    Over
    Rust

    Why would that bother you?
     
  10. Apr 9, 2011 at 5:34 PM
    #10
    anethema

    anethema [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ah not sure just seemed like a bandaid I guess. Normal body work info talks about removing all rust and getting to bare metal, then priming then painting etc.

    I will look into it though.

    I've got one basically done. Going to do the other tomorrow, and if it isn't windy, put spray on bedliner on em. Its a bit rubbery and hard and should help seal out any rust causing moisture, or at least I hope!
     
  11. Apr 9, 2011 at 5:40 PM
    #11
    kmok

    kmok Plastidipped ma Hootus!

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    Are using the bedliner in a spray paint can or getting it done by linex /rhinoliner? The bedliner in a rattle can does not hold up very well from my experience and rolling on herculiner yourself or getting it done by linex/rhinorliner or similar place would be better.
     
  12. Apr 9, 2011 at 5:43 PM
    #12
    JDMcQ

    JDMcQ Well-Known Member

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    ^^^This.

    POR 15 seals the rust, so it will not spread.
     
  13. Apr 9, 2011 at 5:43 PM
    #13
    KBToyota

    KBToyota Well-Known Member

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    I would get a roll of emery cloth and loop it over the tube and work it over, you can get at any hardware store or Harbor Freight. What ever you cant get off use a rust converter and then paint it.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Apr 9, 2011 at 6:03 PM
    #14
    tex

    tex Well-Known Member

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    The 3m bed liner stuff in a can worked good for me. I used it to paint a light bar and it held up great over 2 years. I even put a ratchet strap around it several times to tie down a canoe.
    When I get sliders I plan to just use black spray paint so touch ups are easy.
     
  15. Apr 9, 2011 at 7:49 PM
    #15
    anethema

    anethema [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The bedliner I'm using (EZ-Liner) seems to be fairly good, and will be easy to touch up (I know several local sources for it).

    It was also used by several members here for painting their fender flares, rocker panels, or both, and holding up very well.

    I have done my bumper in it, and so far so good.

    Not sure what paint the PO used, but the thing seems to have rusted right thru it, so I'm thinking the thick, hard but slightly rubbery coating will do the trick.

    Thanks for the emery cloth idea, I will try that as well.
     
  16. Apr 10, 2011 at 6:44 AM
    #16
    Tim A

    Tim A Well-Known Member

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    If you're able to keep your front mud flaps on, that will help with the sliders getting dinged up by road debris.
     
  17. Apr 10, 2011 at 7:50 AM
    #17
    RZRob

    RZRob Well-Known Member

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    Paint remover then Muratic Acid will get fast results, but then nuetralize it with water before you paint.

    RZ Rob
     

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